Scratchthejeepguy Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) Yes, I've used the search function... On here and on Google. I have a Benelli M2 that I want to modify, to be able to ghost load it. I've seen a bunch of threads that tell me I need to take a Dremel to the rear U shaped channel on the bolt to smoothe and round off the rear edge. I've also seen a bunch of threads where they tell me I need to completely fill in that same channel with weld or (with limited success...) JB weld. Which is it? Maybe I'm missing something... Is one for the Benelli and one for the Stoeger? Will either one work? Am I confusing one method with some other mod? Is one better than the other? I don't get it....? Edited February 4, 2015 by Scratchthejeepguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobS761 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Enlighten me as to the advantage of this "ghost load", please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Punkface Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Enlighten me as to the advantage of this "ghost load", please. One extra round in the gun to start with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobS761 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Why not just have a longer tube? Excuse my ignorance, but since almost every rule set has some starting load limitation, I'm not seeing how a ghost load is of any advantage if the shotgun requires a modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Well Scratchy it can be either way. As in so many things in life there are at least two very good ways to do things. Way back when the M2 first came out I was in dire need of a bolt for an M1. No luck as now they only made the M2, so I got an M2 bolt. Low and behold it had an extra notch that prevented loading the carrier. Having spent the last 10 years before the M2 came out figuring stuff out on the M1, it only took me about 5 minutes to figure out that all that was needed was to cut the back of the back U into a nice sloping 45 degree angle and polish it off. Mean while folks who got M2s to work on saw that " one of these isn't like the other ones" and proceded to make them look the same by welding them up and grinding them flat. Now a days with fishing pole sized tubes I don't see the need for the mod, but one doesn't require any heat and can be done by anyone without a welder.....your call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfinney Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Some more "tactical" style match rules used to (maybe still do?) limit the amount of ammo in the gun at start as defined by what ever would fit in the gun... and the barrel length could not be more than 22", or X".... and the tube could not protrude further than the barrel. So that extra round on the carrier was an advantage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Sfinney the old S.O.F. rules, and SMM3G was maximum of 22" barrel and magazine no more than 1" past the muzzle. Those rules are long gone, but the M1 I still use at all matches to this day meets exactly those rules....BUT when I go bird hunting, I make sure to have an unmodified M2 carrier in the gun just so you CAN'T load the carrier. Watched a guy get dinged for that once......held more than 3! Big fine for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Ive seen a weld fail and lock up on the breech bolt latch. via Kurt's method its foolproof. Its also foolproof if you know how to weld. So there you have it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 And JB “Weld” is even easier to knock out than most poorly done welds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Sfinney the old S.O.F. rules, and SMM3G was maximum of 22" barrel and magazine no more than 1" past the muzzle. Those rules are long gone, but the M1 I still use at all matches to this day meets exactly those rules....BUT when I go bird hunting, I make sure to have an unmodified M2 carrier in the gun just so you CAN'T load the carrier. Watched a guy get dinged for that once......held more than 3! Big fine for that! A guy (gunsmith/store owner) here in western Kentucky got dinged big time for doing the mod to hunting guns. (I don’t understand how he was the culprit since he did not load the gun while hunting… but never the less) LINK to the story Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scratchthejeepguy Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) Well that was simple. After taking it apart and actually figuring out what is actually happening, I realized that yes... Both options would work. I am a very good welder, but thought that grinding the rear edge of the groove would be easier, and it would have to be ground to bare metal in order to get a good weld anyways, so I thought I'd do that first, and if it didn't work, I could always weld it. About 2 minutes with the Dremel and some fine sandpaper and it's done. Works perfectly! With my plus 7 tube, I can now hold 12 shells! Thanks all! Edited February 4, 2015 by Scratchthejeepguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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