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how to build limited gun (glock 35)


angler69

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iam new to shooting would like to build/get limited glock 35, but i dont reload so i will be firing factory ammo.

1. fitted bar-sto barrel

2. rhea trigger

3. tung. guid rod

4. mag-well

5.? reduced power recoil spring? like 13 lbs. would this be good shooting full power factor ammo, or is a light spring for those who reload "soft" rounds

6. mag. ext. to 140mm

any help appreciated

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To be honest I would turn my list upside down and start with number 6 and work from there with #4 on down being optional. Reloads are pretty good in a Glock but I like my magwell for the way it secures my grip, try a gun with T gr before you buy I liked steel in mine just fine and didn't feel a huge diff with the tungsten, the trigger might be nice but for the money I would get Charlie Vanek's, and you may find your barrel is fine for IPSC purposes,. Also, I know of other people running the 13's with major pf ammo but my gun would have a few problems. When I switched to a 15 pounder it solved it. I think I had just a bit too much slide speed. Just by both and you can see the difference in how they feel as well.

Craig

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Now I see said the blind man...yes, agree with smokshwn, I would turn the list upside down. #6 should be priority 1 and critical. Need to get the most rounds in the gun and still be limited legal. A trigger job would be #2, but I would initally do the 25 cent job myself, put a light striker spring in the gun and you might find you don't need anything else. If you do, it will be money you can spend later, allowing you to try some of the various offerings out there to see what you like before you shell out the big bucks. I'd do the recoil spring next, as those are cheap and both a 13 and a 15 will change how the gun feels. For a new shooter however, this may not be needed for quite some time. Not much money regardless. I would do the magwell next to assist in reloading, but also as mentioned earlier to help position the hand on the gun. I'd put a steel guide rod in next, but not necessarily tungsten. Some say they can tell a lot of difference in steel and tungsten, but I couldn't. Those things are expensive for such a small benefit IMO. Only after groups started to open up with the factory barrel would I replace it. Certainly last on the list. The gun on the link below is almost identical to what you've described. Barsto barrel, 13 pound spring, tungsten rod, magwell, trigger job, etc. I only got there after lots of experimenting and lots of rounds, but wouldn't do it all at once, initially, or even the same way if I had it to do over again.

limited blaster

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The guys above me have more Glock experience than I do, but I would agree, with one addition;

No one mentioned Heinie sites. :huh:

If I had to go Glock, and factory ammo, I would do the following, in roughly this order of importance. Obvioudly the "grip enhancement" is cheap enough that could be done right away.

G35 (duh).

Mags & 140mm Extensions, take things up to 20+1.

Heinie sites, with a .090 - .100 front, probably fibre optic.

Lightening Strike connector, maybe a Ti striker.

Magwell

Skate tape type grips.

guide rod and springs as needed

I am not a minimalist, but that would about do it for me. I can shoot a lighter factory type trigger in a glock, but I can't stand that crappy site picture. Reloads (at Limited speed) are also a hurdle I would have to work to over come.

Like we keep hearing about ANY gun, you need sites you can shoot quickly and accurately, a trigger you can manage and in my case a magwell I can find in under half an hour.

FWIW have not played with the high end Glock trigger kits, but had a buddy take his down to circa 2# a few years back. I liked the "crispness" (did I just use that word talk about a GLock trigger??? :wacko: ) of the factory 3.5. Just one goobers opinion.

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I have built several G35's for Limied and would recommend the following in order.

1) Hiene or Bomar sights

2) Quality trigger work

3) Bar Sto barrel fitted properly

4) Stippled grip

Once you have the gun up and running you can play with spring rates. Somewhere around 13-15 lbs should work for you. The tungsten rod mostly changes the balance of the gun, and is probably worth playing with just like the spring rates are. The magwell can be helpfull, choose wisely.

If you set the gun up as above you will find that Winchester factory 40 ammo, the 165gr FMJ load should make major at about 1015fps. At least it does for several of my customers.

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Dirty,

Thanx, I completely forgot about sites on the Glock. To stay in a nice budget you can get the Heinie set from Brownells for $55. (the rear only is $35) I like to widen the rear notch a little but I think they give about the best sight pic there is. You can replace the front with a FO if that is your preference.

Craig

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Yeah, that was kinda my point to, was if I can manage 50y "A" hits the stock barrel is good enough.......IF I am. The point of going Glock and factory ammo (IMO) is simplicity. I have to start looking at building a gun and fitting custom oversized barrels etc., I'm going to look at other options.

smokshwn I like a fairly open site pic, I shoot a .090 with the standard Bomar on a 5" 1911. I might have to open things up like you mentioned.

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As far as sight setup goes here are the width specs on my guns. I used a .50c file from Harbor freight and just worked a couple of passes at a time with the calipers. Don't forget to alternate sides or you will change POI.

.110" Front FO with Bomar rear notch at .140"

.125" Front Heinie with rear Heinie notch at .165"

This for me seems to be a good balance of having a wide enough notch for quicker site reacquisition yet remaining accurate enough for solid 25yd hits on anything.

Craig

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