DexterGSP Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) I have a Ruger Standard made in 1965. I decided to gussy up the pistol for rimfire silhouette shooting. So far I have added VG front and rear sights, and a VQ accurizing kit (trigger, hammer, sear). When I installed the kit I noticed that my factory Ruger disconnector had a slight bow in it. I decided to buy a VQ disconnector and ran into problems. The installation was easy and it appeared to work well until I did a function test. The trigger fails to reset when the trigger is pulled and the bolt is cycled and the trigger is released. I didn't have this problem with the Ruger disconnector. I spent a large part of the day reassembling and disassembling the pistol to try and diagnose the problem. It appears the bottom of the disconnector leg is not going down far enough to allow the sear to reset. By looking at it, it looks like the disconnector leg is shy by a couple of hundred of an inch from allowing the sear to reset. It’s very hard to see what the exact solution might be. Should I enlarge the disconnector window (upper portion of the window) to allow the disconnector to sit further down when the bolt is cycled? Although this may not correct the problem since I can’t tell if the hammer pin is contacting the upper portion of the disconnector window. It could be that the upper ledge of the disconnect (part of the disconnector the bolt rides on) is not tall enough to depress the disconnector down far enough to allow the disconnector to function. By the way, I called VQ about this problem before I started to diagnose it. I spoke to a tech guy who put me on hold to speak one of their gunsmiths. I had described the problem to the guy and he came back with an answer. He said their gunsmith thinks the disconnector might be hanging up on the side of the frame and to bend the disconnector away from the frame. I told the guy that it was not the problem and bending the disconnector away from the frame would not solve the problem. I asked the guy if the disconnector leg could be the problem and he said no. I really don’t think guy knew what he was talking about. Any ideas about what to do? Thanks, Paul Edited August 29, 2014 by DexterGSP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Compare it to the stock one and see where they differ. Possibly the bow in the stock one was there for a reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Before you bend anything, if the trigger has a stop in it, back it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DexterGSP Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) Before you bend anything, if the trigger has a stop in it, back it out. I already tried dealing with the trigger adjustment screws. I backed out both of the pre-travel and over-travel screws and it didn't make a difference. Bending this VQ disconnector will not solve anything. Edited August 29, 2014 by DexterGSP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DexterGSP Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Compare it to the stock one and see where they differ. Possibly the bow in the stock one was there for a reason. These disconnectors are suppose to be straight. The Ruger had a bow in it from almost 50 years of use. The bow was pushing out into the magazine well causing the magazine to rub on it, which can cause problems with inserting the mag and trigger pull consistency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Ok, what other differences were/are there ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DexterGSP Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 As I was falling asleep last night I though more about the problem. I really think that this problem with the VQ disconnector is terminal. Opening up the window would not solve anything. I remember testing this out last night. If the window was too narrow and the hammer pin was not allowing the disconnector to go further down to reset the sear then I should have seen/felt a binding action between the top lip/tab on the disconnector and the bottom of the bolt when cycling the action, which I didn't. I really think that VQ did not put enough material on the top portion of the disconnector tab. I can't return the VQ disconnector since it has now been altered. I did a minor polish job to it. The VQ disconnector had a lot of machine marks on it. Maybe I’m wrong about this disconnector. Please let me know if I’ve over looked something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DexterGSP Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Ok, what other differences were/are there ??? The window on the VQ disconnector is about .01" narrower than the Ruger one. It's harder to put a caliper on some of these surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg in VA Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Can you peen it to make it taller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DexterGSP Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Can you peen it to make it taller? I thought about that. I tried to cold peen things in the past and it hasn't really worked out that well. I think if I did cold peen it the metal would be way too thin for the disconnector to last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg in VA Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Can you silver solder ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DexterGSP Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Can you silver solder ? I don't think that's an option. Maybe a really good welder could weld up the top portion of the disconnector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tampa-XD45 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 How about JB Weld as a temp fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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