JB38Super Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Sorry didn't answer question. Dremel tool and cut off wheel used to grind it back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmoodybmf Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Thank you sir Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garbo Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) I'm having the same issue on my stock II since I installed the one piece extreme sear. It happens when the slide is on and off the gun, and only when the trigger is pulled VERY slowly. I have confirmed it is not due to the half cock notch on the hammer catching and my sear cage has very little movement in it. What angle to you file down on the sear leg to fix this exactly? The inside or outside?(hope that description makes sense) Edited February 28, 2017 by Garbo Adding information on issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Moving the trigger very slowly allows the hammer to fall before the sear moves enough to allow the 1/2 cock hooks to pass. can also be the result of the over travel screw being set too tight. I ran into this using "old school" hanging weight trigger pull method. the gun fuxtured and weight slowly added gave your exact description. i just pull the trigger "normal " and never had it happen again. oh, i also removed the ot screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garbo Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) Correction, it isn't falling into half cock. It switches into a DA pull. As in it drops the hammer, but will only fall into half cock if i let the trigger out again, but if i continue to pull the trigger it will fire normally with a higher pull weight. The overtravel screw is also nowhere near the frame when this occurs, and i removed the screw and tested just to be sure and it still falls into DA. Edited March 1, 2017 by Garbo More detailed information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB38Super Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Follow the original contour on the sear leg. Move it back a few thousands at a time, testing in between Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garbo Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) On just the outside of the sear leg(the part facing down towards the trigger bar) or some on the inside angle where it contacts the sear cage as well? (I'm assuming just the outside but want to make sure before i go and mess with it anymore) Edited March 1, 2017 by Garbo detail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatriotDefense Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Garbo said: On just the outside of the sear leg(the part facing down towards the trigger bar) or some on the inside angle where it contacts the sear cage as well? (I'm assuming just the outside but want to make sure before i go and mess with it anymore) Your looking at hitting the face of the sear leg that contacts the trigger bar, your basically changing the timing on when the SA breaks and ensuring the interrupter has cleared the trigger bar Edited March 1, 2017 by PatriotDefense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garbo Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 34 minutes ago, PatriotDefense said: Your looking at hitting the face of the sear leg that contacts the trigger bar, your basically changing the timing on when the SA breaks and ensuring the interrupter has cleared the trigger bar Thanks for the confirmation, thats what i thought but i wanted to be absolutely positive. (Using exclusively your springs btw ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garbo Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Issue is now resolved, and as a bonus the reset is noticeably shorter now. Thanks for the help PD and Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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