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Do you have a brand preference when buying dies


N1vram

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Hello, I am just getting started with reloading. I recently bought a Dillon 650 and still working on getting the rest of the equipment and things I need to reload.

I will be reloading 10mm and was curious if you all had a preference of dies for this caliber. I'm curious because I see cheap Lee dies and then I see the pricier competition Redding dies with micrometer and everything else in between.

If it matters, I will be reloading brass shot out of a gen 4 glock 20.

Thank you,

Marvin

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First of all, I'm not all that brand conscious and I'll admit up front that I'm a cheap SOB so take that for what its worth. I'm using Dillon, Hornady, and Lee carbide dies. I'm loading on a progressive and prefer to separate the seating from the crimping so I either buy a set that accomodates that or if I've found a good deal on dies, I'll buy a separate crimp die and back off the crimping portion of my seating die (ie, like with my Hornady dies).

All have done an acceptable job of loading but in the end, I prefer my Dillon dies. They seem to operate a little smoother in a progressive and they are a whole sight easier to take apart to clean without losing your settings. Not an issue if you're loading plated or jacketed but a definite concern with lead.

What they do NOT do is completely take out the infamous Glock bulge. Due to the rounded mouth of the sizing / decapping die to work with a progressive, it doesn't go down far enough to really reach the bulge so I run all my cases through a sizing die first. A bit of a pain but there it is. I'm not sure which, if any, manufacturers will do this and still function smoothly in a progressive. Although most of the cases I have were fired from my pistol (M&P40fs), I still somehow manage to pick up a few cases with the bulge.

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First of all, I'm not all that brand conscious and I'll admit up front that I'm a cheap SOB so take that for what its worth. I'm using Dillon, Hornady, and Lee carbide dies. I'm loading on a progressive and prefer to separate the seating from the crimping so I either buy a set that accomodates that or if I've found a good deal on dies, I'll buy a separate crimp die and back off the crimping portion of my seating die (ie, like with my Hornady dies).

All have done an acceptable job of loading but in the end, I prefer my Dillon dies. They seem to operate a little smoother in a progressive and they are a whole sight easier to take apart to clean without losing your settings. Not an issue if you're loading plated or jacketed but a definite concern with lead.

What they do NOT do is completely take out the infamous Glock bulge. Due to the rounded mouth of the sizing / decapping die to work with a progressive, it doesn't go down far enough to really reach the bulge so I run all my cases through a sizing die first. A bit of a pain but there it is. I'm not sure which, if any, manufacturers will do this and still function smoothly in a progressive. Although most of the cases I have were fired from my pistol (M&P40fs), I still somehow manage to pick up a few cases with the bulge.

Thanks for responding.

I've been reading about the use of a Udie to handle the bulge in the sticky. So far none of my brass appear that bulged. I am going to take some of my brass to a friend that reloads to examine for the glock bulge to be sure.

I understand the newer glocks have a more supportive chamber than previously??? I also have not yet shot any of the hot or nuclear loads out there.

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If you got a Dillon press, I would recomend getting Dillon dies. I like Lee dies for single stage loading, but they don't always have enough thread to really fit the tool head on the Dillon. Also it's best to use a seperate crimp die, and not all other sets come with one.

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Are you shooting competition where the possible increase in accuracy of Competition dies would make any difference? Does your gun shoot sub-1" groups at 100 yards?

If not, the Lee dies will do EVERYTHING you would want and produce ammo as good as any other dies.

If there was one brand of die that was so superior in terms of ammo produced, we would all be using it exclusively.

I have three Dillon presses and very few of my tool heads have ANY Dillon dies on them (though they all came with Dillon dies). My favorite dies are Lee and Hornady New Dimension. Lee fits my 1050 tool heads just fine.

+1 on separating seating and crimping and Lee taper crimp dies (not talking about the FCDs) run about $10 (MidwayUSA, Natchez, etc.). I have never seen one taper crimp die that was superior to any other. I do have a STRONG prejudice for the Redding Profile Crimp Die for all my roll crimping needs...

I have NEVER needed an undersized sizing die. If the case has a bulge you can see, throw it away for safety. If you can't see it (but can feel it, can "see" it when the rolls on a flat surface, or you just want to be sure that every case will chamber), then run it through a Lee Bulge Buster (great reason to have a Lee pistol FCD).

One thing about Dillon sizing dies--they have a large chamfered opening like old Glock barrels and can't get any where near the bulge to iron it out.

Edited by noylj
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Are you shooting competition where the possible increase in accuracy of Competition dies would make any difference? Does your gun shoot sub-1" groups at 100 yards?

If not, the Lee dies will do EVERYTHING you would want and produce ammo as good as any other dies.

If there was one brand of die that was so superior in terms of ammo produced, we would all be using it exclusively.

I have three Dillon presses and very few of my tool heads have ANY Dillon dies on them (though they all came with Dillon dies). My favorite dies are Lee and Hornady New Dimension. Lee fits my 1050 tool heads just fine.

+1 on separating seating and crimping and Lee taper crimp dies (not talking about the FCDs) run about $10 (MidwayUSA, Natchez, etc.). I have never seen one taper crimp die that was superior to any other. I do have a STRONG prejudice for the Redding Profile Crimp Die for all my roll crimping needs...

I have NEVER needed an undersized sizing die. If the case has a bulge you can see, throw it away for safety. If you can't see it (but can feel it, can "see" it when the rolls on a flat surface, or you just want to be sure that every case will chamber), then run it through a Lee Bulge Buster (great reason to have a Lee pistol FCD).

One thing about Dillon sizing dies--they have a large chamfered opening like old Glock barrels and can't get any where near the bulge to iron it out.

This is not a competition gun. At least I'm not planning to use it in competition. I'd be afraid of loosing my brass. 10mm brass seems almost unobtainable. However I do hope to use it to hunt with in the future. With that said, I doubt my glock 20 is capable of 1" groups at 100 yards. If it is, I'm certainly not capable of being that accurate with it :)

Your comment regarding a die making superior ammo makes a lot of sense. Thank you.

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Been using the Hornady dies with the seat and crimp in one die in 9mm and 40 S&W and they work great. Leave room in my press for a powder check and bullet feeder. Never ran into any problems with combined seating and crimping as i am not crimping very hard and using plated and FMJ bullets.

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On my 650 I use Dillon, lee, lyman, redding dies. You don't need the redding micrometer die unless you are seating the same round at different COAL, I use one for 223 and 40. I like the Lyman carbide sizing die for 40 since I can get it a little lower on the shell plate and eliminate the bulge without using the huge buster, also no lube needed. The Udie from Lee or EGW are good options as well.

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If you have a gun with a tight chamber. Lee's first stage sizing die is the way to go. Yes they're cheap but they size closer to the extractor groove

and a little tighter than some of the other brands. Lee's seating die has an adjustment knob on the top so it's easy to make slight adjustments. For a

few dollars Lee will cut a plug to go in the seating die to fit the bullet your using just send the bullet. I use a varied bullet type in 9mm minor so

had one made local that's flat, only pushes on the nose of the bullet. Helps to keep OAL closer. Don't care for Lee's factory crimp die or their locking

nuts. Using a Dillon crimp die and nuts.

On the Dillon 650 may need to lock the sizing die from the bottom of the tool head. Lee's carbide ring is closer to the mouth of the die so I use a small

strip of paper as a go no go gauge.

After die set up go back and check the adjustment on the sizing die. The strip of paper should pull out with pressure on the operating handle but not push

in.

In 40 S@W Lee's U die is the way to go. Seen several S-I pistols that wouldn't run start running by using the U die. At present using a standard Lee sizer in 9mm and 45acp. The U die can be purchased from Lee, EGW and I think Midway carries them now.

Dillon's dies are built for speed and the mouth of the die is opened up more works fine in standard pistols. Because Lee's sizing die is tighter you may

to polish the powder through die. If your getting chigger bites, little cups on the case mouth then the powder funnel is to tight.

I put mine in a drill press polish the area on the powder funnel that goes in the brass. Brass should slip over the powder funnel with slight effort.

Because Lee's sizer is a little tighter may slow production a little and the press needs to be in time.

Don't care what the box says always lube cases. Makes the whole process easier on the brass, dies, press and the operator.

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