Headworked Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 (edited) Well, finally finished all the machining and got my new muzzle brake heat treated and ground/polished and ready for a match... Shot it a few times in the white, and tuned on the holes and gas bleed... Edited August 6, 2014 by Headworked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 It's slightly lighter than JP Cooley, and performs just a hair better so far in testing... Now to see how it does in the 'barrel dump' test.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoganbillJ Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 (edited) Tough to tell from the pics but are you running a jet port? Similar to the rolling thunder? Looks good though. What's the dimensions? Let us know how it performs. Edited August 6, 2014 by LoganbillJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 (edited) Thanks LoganBillj... It's got one jet port out to the right, and three thru the top... It's just under 1" wide x 1" tall, and 2 1/2" from end of barrel. I was able to get good quick doubles on paper at 30 yards offhand, and it did very well off a barricade, and did not jump at all... Recoil reduction feels in between the Cooley and my rolling thunder...we're gonna get some practice out to 300-350yds this weekend in preparation for ProAm, so I'll let you know how it does. Edited August 6, 2014 by Headworked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 Got take it out and do some testing today... Put a resetting skinny Sammy mini popper at 125 yds, a BC steel resetting target at 275, and a 10" gong at 270... I took off the JP Cooley comp, an put the new one on, without touching anything on scope... Got settled in on painter bench we took with, and Fired a couple at the mini popper, and saw they were just right of center.. Adjusted POA left two inches, an knocked it down. Sent several down to the BC and the gong, still holding just left of center, and got good hits... Stood up, got a good stance, an fired 3 offhand, transitioning from mini popper, to BC steel, then to gong... Went 1 for 1 with no misses, so I'm very happy with the performance... I think I'm ready for 3 gun nation SE regional and the ProAm! See you guys there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 I've tried several brake combinations since I made this brake, and tried it out... Of course I used the JP Cooley comp as my control, and tested all others against it. I've used an Mstn PRI for quite awhile, and was fairly happy with the results... Recoil reduction was similar to JP, and muzzle rise was minimal... I tried a Seekins brake, but it didn't help me with muzzle rise as well... It may have been due to not using the locking washer, and screwing it onto the threaded barrel portion all the way, and negating the effects of the radial forward ports... Tried the Rolling a Thunder, and it was super heavy on front end, but had good recoil reduction... Needed a hole drilled in side to overcome my torque of left hand hold, but it's weight made me shelve it I've recently purchased an SJC Titan, and am in process of machining it to fit my old JP barrel... One note I left out is that the old barrels had an oddball thread size, I imagine to prevent folks from slapping any old brake or suppressor on there... Thread was 9/16-28, so every brake I've tried, I've had to bore new hole from purchased 1/2" diameter, and run 9/16" tap in bored hole... What I'm wondering lately, is if the weight of a muzzle brake can adversely affect a barrel's accuracy, since a heavier brake would cause barrel to 'whip' a little more during firing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Therealkoop Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Is it less than 1" across diagonally. I think if you are tuning this brake specifically, it will always outperform a random brake slapped on. Interesting thoughts on the PRI vs seekins, I use a seekins and was thinking about getting a PRI to play around with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon49erfan Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 weight at the muzzle can effect poi but shouldn't effect accuracy. suppressor guys deal with this all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) Koop, On the trapezoidal one shown above, I made the face of the baffles volcano shaped, thinking it would peel away better... I believe the abrupt, flat faces work better, giving better recoil reducing performance... And yes, it is under the 1" diameter rule, and 3" length from end of barrel Edited November 14, 2015 by Headworked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BitchinCamaro Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 How did you volcano the inside faces on the one brake? I'm just curious as to how you machined it. I like the trapezoid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Koop, On the trapezoidal one shown above, I made the face of the baffles volcano shaped, thinking it would peel away better... I believe the abrupt, flat faces work better, giving better recoil reducing performance... And yes, it is under the 1" diameter rule, and 3" length from end of barrel Nothing wrong with the volcano shape. It actually increases the surface area making your 1" baffles act more like 1.125" baffles. That shape also serves to smooth out the energy delivery, reducing vibration. It allows the gas to constantly sweep away carbon, keeping the baffles cleaner too. The big problem you will be faced with is how to get any use out of the other 2 baffles. Most of the gas will strip out of the first chamber. Overall, I dig the thought process though. You might consider step boreing the baffles to allow gas to pass through to the second and third chamber. Now if you really want a head scratcher... Take a look at Passamaneck's Gas Hog. I've not yet figured out what's going on in that thing... Very elegant and complex at the same time... and effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 I will post up a side shot pic at halftime.. I can't remember how much I stepped the hole diameters, but it's 3 different sizes... They are just too close to one another in size at te moment.. I machined them conventionally, using a Bridgeport and a 1/4" ball endmill... I machined each baffle pocket, with the rectangle around the baffle opening... I then came back with ball endmill and stepped down and over, using a calculated over-and-down formula for every 2.5 degrees. Then finished with stones and some polish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 Here's a side shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) Steezy! I would open up that first through hole. Maybe some thing like .400". Let some gas through. Or I would shorten it up by losing the third baffle. Pretty trick though. Edited November 14, 2015 by co-exprs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 I think it's about .340, then .300, then .260, then .240 Only prob is the brake has been heat treated to mid 50's R/c Would have to tool post grind holes open I kept holes that size, trying to get some right side jet port effect to compensate for my left arm torque... I suppose I could rotate the brake, and open it up like you say to see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JatCarver Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Interested to hear your thoughts on the SJC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 On SJC, I got it mounted and took it out for testing over weekend. Had two types of rounds to be tested, 77 HPBT MK hand loads, and WIN 55 grain white box. Started with one round in mag and gas block closed, with the 77gr, using 12" square target at 25yds. Had the jet ports pointed up, as close to straight as I could get it. Had to open up gas block (Syrac) 6 clicks to get bolt to stay back. Recoil reduction felt good, but dot in scope was moving slightly up and to the right (I'm right handed). I want ahead and switched to WIN 55gr, and had to open gas block up 2 more clicks to hold bolt back. This gave some more felt recoil, as reciprocating mass came rearward with a little more force. Still noticed slight up an to the right with dot on center of target. I brought some shims along, and clocked the SJC to about 1:30-2 o'clock, to try and overcome the up and right movement in glass. It did help, and I moved back to 30 yards, and felt pretty good with decently quick doubles on the 12" target. Overall, I believe this brake has given me the best result of all brakes used and tested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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