Amacron Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 I just completed a caliber change on my dillon 550. Now on the downstroke Powder measure binds, the brass colored levers hit the front of casting of the powder measure. I just purchased a new powder measure so I wouldn't have to keep changing/adjusting them. With the original powder measure I have been able to reload both 45 and 44 mag with no problem. I am currently trying to reload 357 mag. I have tried to adjust the powder fail safe rod to see if it won't bind any more but it still does. Any Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 loosen the two bolts holding the measure in place and run it loose for a little while. It should find it's own sweetspot and quit binding. Then tighten back up. I also run a little one shot or graphite between those brass colored levers. I think you also need to tighten the failsafe rod some more. Mine hits that spot as well when there is no case on the plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amacron Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 I have the measure loose I haven't tightened the two screws. The two brass colored pieces aren't binding. I didn't explain it very well. The front ear of the top brass colored piece is hitting the body of the powder measure. I placed an arrow where it is binding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
808win Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Amacron, is the z-bend on your failsafe rod (#97000) formed with 90 degree or near 90 degree bends? My guess is that it's not (you can Google z-bend to see images of properly formed z-bends). If this is the case, when the long portion of the failsafe rod is plumb (vertical), the portion of the rod that goes through the linkage is not level (horizontal). This causes the outer linkage's movement to lag the slotted bellcrank's movement on the return stroke causing it to hit the powder measure casting...at least on mine it does. In my case, I am able to get it to work by rotating the powder measure a little counter clockwise (viewed from the top). I start with the long portion of the failsafe rod plumb then rotate the measure a little CCW and tighten the 2 clamp screws (#14037) and try it. If the linkage still hits, I loosen the clamp screws and repeat the process until the linkage just clears. At some point, if the long portion of the failsafe rod is too far off plumb, the rod will drag on the inside of the white shoulder washer (#18086) which it's not intended to do. If you reach this point, consider replacing the rod because the bend nearest the long end of your failsafe rod is probably too far off from 90 degrees. Edited June 30, 2014 by 808win Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 All of the new powder measures I have purchased in the last 2 years do this and the failsafe rod pulls the offending piece down past the body of the measure when the handle comes all the way back up. This is what causes the annoying clunk/clack in the new type powder measures. I ground all of mine so that the offending finger clears the powder measure body and added 2 of the old type springs to return the bar back to zero. Your picture of the binding looks normal to me for a new powder measure. When you bring the handle up to prime does the failsafe rod pull it past the bind with a healthy clack when the powder bar returns to zero? If so it is operating properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alvarez Kelly Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 I believe you need to tighten the blue wing nut on the failsafe rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssanders224 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Usually, that issue has nothing to do with the failsafe rod. The new style bellcrank will hit the powder measure when the powder measure is falling faster than the failsafe rod is moving the bellcrank out of the way. The only way to slow down the "drop" of the powder measure is to tighten the black socket head cap screw that holds the bellcrank to the powder measure body (it is the bolt that has a nut on the other side). Snug that bolt down just 1/8 or 1/4 turn, and I bet you the problem disappears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amacron Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Thanks for all your input. I re-bent the fail safe rod to a better 90 degrees. I also tightened the black socket head cap screw as suggested. The bell crank hits on the way up but not on the way down, which I think that is the way it is supposed to work. on the downstroke It barley clears it but barley is enough for me. Thanks again to all who chimed in with their suggestions. I will be calling Dillon to see if I can get a 90 degree fail safe rod as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssanders224 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Thanks for all your input. I re-bent the fail safe rod to a better 90 degrees. I also tightened the black socket head cap screw as suggested. The bell crank hits on the way up but not on the way down, which I think that is the way it is supposed to work. on the downstroke It barley clears it but barley is enough for me. Thanks again to all who chimed in with their suggestions. I will be calling Dillon to see if I can get a 90 degree fail safe rod as well. The bellcrank should not contact the powder measure body at any time. You are correct, it will on clear by a very small amount, but it will clear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amacron Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Called Dillon, call went right through talked to Dave. He is sending out a new fail safe rod. Ill let u all know when the other ones get here how much of a 90 degree there is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssanders224 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Called Dillon, call went right through talked to Dave. He is sending out a new fail safe rod. Ill let u all know when the other ones get here how much of a 90 degree there is. I just cannot see how the rod is causing the problem. If someone can explain, please do. I have experienced thus issue with two different bell cranks. Tightening the black socket head bolt remedied both of them. If it is still hitting on the way down, tighten it a hair more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amacron Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 The rod i have is not at a 90 degree angle. So since the rod is inserted into the bellcrank from the left side the smaller part of the bellcrank (outside one) doesn't get pulled down as much as the inner bell crank because the rod isn't at a 90 degree angle. If i match both holes of the inner and outside bellcrank without the rod inserted ( the bottom slot of the inside bellcrank matches the outside hole exactly) it will miss the body of the powder measure every time. I have gorilla tightened the bolt u suggested ( it was loose) but it still didn't solve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssanders224 Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 The rod i have is not at a 90 degree angle. So since the rod is inserted into the bellcrank from the left side the smaller part of the bellcrank (outside one) doesn't get pulled down as much as the inner bell crank because the rod isn't at a 90 degree angle. If i match both holes of the inner and outside bellcrank without the rod inserted ( the bottom slot of the inside bellcrank matches the outside hole exactly) it will miss the body of the powder measure every time. I have gorilla tightened the bolt u suggested ( it was loose) but it still didn't solve the problem. Gotcha. I guess I can see that happening. So why not just bend it to 90 and see if it goes away? Have a vise and channel locks? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amacron Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 I did bend it better but now the rod has a bow to it.It works now just barley clear it. Didn't have a vise only channel locks. So I ordered another one from Dillon. I as also Curious if the new one I get has a better 90 Bend in it.. A Z-bend. I have a set of Z-bend pliers but they are so smaller stock RC stuff for airplanes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hydroranger Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 I would like to gain better clarity on this issue as I seem to be having a similar problem. I have a fairly new 550 and have been loading 223. All of a sudden, I have developed an alignment problem with my shell case going up into the powder bar. About 30% of the time, the case mouth strikes the right edge of the powder funnel base, lifting the powder funnel about 1/4 inch before re-aligning with a "THUNK" into the cone portion of the funnel. Plays havoc with dispensing powder accurately. My locator pins are not holding the shell case vertically in either the powder or seating stations, and what was a progressive press has just sort of stopped. I have tightened the shell plate as far down as I can and still able to advance the plate. Can the press just work its way out of alignment over time? (I do have an alignment tool used on an older press) How do you minimize the play between the locator pins and the base of the case so cases are held vertical? In this thread, there is a comment that the brass bell cranks should not touch the casting of the powder bar. Mine do going up for sure, and I believe they slightly touch on the way down. What is the answer to this...are they suppose to touch or not? If not, I believe I can follow the suggestions in this thread to alleviate this issue. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now