Firing Pin Madness

[Cd662]

I have a new production Model 14 from the S&W Classic Line that I had a competent gunsmith do work on. The gun has not seen a lot of rounds, maybe 2 or 3 thousand tops. The gunsmith built the gun with a Cylinder and Slide extended firing pin. This has never given me any trouble (surprisingly) but I don't shoot the gun often. I wanted to change the firing pin (just in case) before the IRC. I am pretty sure the spring is from an Apex pin. The Apex pin started light striking primers that weren't perfect, but were being ignited from the old pin. I switched out the Apex pin for a brand new C&S pin, which was 2 thousandths of an inch longer than the one that was working. That one was light striking also. I am going to go back to the original pin and just hope for the best at this point, but I was wondering if the tech gurus can give me some advice. I don't like messing around with gear, I don't want to constantly be worried about firing pin breakage, and the C&S pins scare me since dry firing them, talking about them, looking at them, or thinking about them seems to mean they could break.

For me, a primer that should go off is one that has been seated or reseated to 4 thousandths of an inch or deeper below flush. My match brass is Starline and a lot of that is seated 8 to 10 thousandths of an inch deep, but I want a gun that can ignite non "perfect" primers. I know it's possible since a friend of mine has an Open gun and it ignites Winchester primers and non-perfect Federal primers.

[bountyhunter]

The Apex pin started light striking primers that weren't perfect, but were being ignited from the old pin. I switched out the Apex pin for a brand new C&S pin, which was 2 thousandths of an inch longer than the one that was working. That one was light striking also.

That seems to prove the light strike problem is not due to FP length. There are some other things to check:

1) cylinder end shake can cause light strikes.

2) Reduced main spring force. Has the strain screw been cut? Is the tip wearing down? A little change there can cause light strikes.

It sounds like maybe the gun was marginal on ignition all along and it is just now showing up possibly due to ammo tolerance. This happens a lot with guns tweaked up to get the lightest possible trigger pull.

[seanc]

I have a new production Model 14 from the S&W Classic Line that I had a competent gunsmith do work on. The gun has not seen a lot of rounds, maybe 2 or 3 thousand tops. The gunsmith built the gun with a Cylinder and Slide extended firing pin. This has never given me any trouble (surprisingly) but I don't shoot the gun often. I wanted to change the firing pin (just in case) before the IRC. I am pretty sure the spring is from an Apex pin. The Apex pin started light striking primers that weren't perfect, but were being ignited from the old pin. I switched out the Apex pin for a brand new C&S pin, which was 2 thousandths of an inch longer than the one that was working. That one was light striking also. I am going to go back to the original pin and just hope for the best at this point, but I was wondering if the tech gurus can give me some advice. I don't like messing around with gear, I don't want to constantly be worried about firing pin breakage, and the C&S pins scare me since dry firing them, talking about them, looking at them, or thinking about them seems to mean they could break.

For me, a primer that should go off is one that has been seated or reseated to 4 thousandths of an inch or deeper below flush. My match brass is Starline and a lot of that is seated 8 to 10 thousandths of an inch deep, but I want a gun that can ignite non "perfect" primers. I know it's possible since a friend of mine has an Open gun and it ignites Winchester primers and non-perfect Federal primers.

Put in the pin that works and stop worrying about it.

[buckaroo45]

I installed an Apex pin in my 627 and just tightened the strain screw to 100% ignition. Seems the Apex is a shade longer that others. Lotta variables in revo trigger / ignition. Near as much smoke and mirrors as science. Wish I still had hands that can appreciate the difference. Sold that 627 because I can't.