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Weak shell ejection causing stovepipes?


bluedevil008

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I have a Glock 35 that I use a KKM 9mm barrel with for 3 gun stuff. I have found that every 1-2 out of 100 rounds, I'll get a empty casing stovepipe(I think that would be the right term) and prevent the slide from going forward.

I am almost certain it is because the shell is not being ejected with enough force. When firing, the casings usually pop out only couple inches above the gun. This means, every once and awhile the shell just stays inside the frame and wants to fall through the magazine well, the magazine keeps it from falling down so it stays in the slide, thus causing a jam.

I have replaced the ejector with a 9mm ejector, and I THOUGHT I replaced the extractor with a 9mm extractor. I'm almost positive I did, but they look so similar I can't tell. What else can I do to get these to eject better? This gun eats 9mm so well, and I don't want to have to get another gun, but once a match it's causing me a major malfunction.

.40 ejects well and shoots perfectly btw.

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Issues like yours could be caused by weak 9mm ammunition and a strong RSA. The Gen 3 G34/G35 Glocks use the same RSA but they are different in the Gen 4 pistols and should have always been different. It would probably help to drop the recoil spring weight by 2# when shooting 9mm.

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I'm going to go the other way on this one since I just went through the same issue on a glock 22 with a kkm 9mm conversion barrel in an open gun. Occasional stove pipes and the last round turned around and laid on top of the mag follower.

I tried a 9mm ejector and extractor but it was no better or maybe even worse. Called kkm and they said their conversion barrels were engineered to use .40 ejectors and extractors. Changed back. Got a little better. Put in a white sound extra power extractor assembly and Zev extended ejector. Got a little better. Remembered something about lci extractors bring troublesome and changed it for a non lci. Fixed.

Also you probably need a 14 lb recoil spring since a 35 comes with a 17 lb one. As said above, this may solve it.

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I'm running an ISMI 13# flat spring on a ZEV stainless guide rod. This was a recent switch, and I still have the problem. Before I was running a 17#.

So you're suggesting a non loaded chamber indicator extractor assembly for .40? And a ZEV extended ejector. Is that what comes with the Fulcrum kit? Because that's what I have in there.

Edit: Would the extractor plunger/spring have any effect? I got the gun used, but only a few hundred rounds through it, probably around 2500 total, but who knows if that thing was used before on another gun.

Edited by bluedevil008
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According to kkm, their conversion barrels, .40 to 9mm, are designed to be drop in without further parts swap. The non loaded chamber extractor worked for me. I just swapped one from my 35 limited gun before I bought one. There is also a fitting pad underneath the extractor that allows you to remove material and make the claw take a tighter grip on the case. When I asked about a 9mm extractor I was told the .40 has more claw to grab the case. I didn't try a 9mm extractor but would like to see what one does. The 9mm ejector made mine worse.

Turning a .40 into a. 9mm is no problem, making them run 100% can be another thing tho. Mine took some trial and error . The extractor made the biggest difference. Not sure if the extended ejector comes with the fulcrum or not. If you get one it requires fitting. It's too long to eject live rounds.

Yes the extractor spring could make a difference. SJC installs a set screw through the rear plate to tune the tension on the spring. White sound defense assembly adds 20% more tension.

Edited by captain037
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Ordered a .40 non-LCI and new extractor plunger and spring. We will see how that does.

Anyone think 13# recoil spring is too much for factory 9mm and a lightened Glock 35 slide?

Here is what the malfunctions look like: pic.twitter.com/qQgWM19WIw

Also, I case-gauged all the rounds I shot this time, so I know it can't be because of a too-tight fit.

Edited by bluedevil008
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Looks like not enough extractor tension to me, From how mine performed at first at least. Take your slide off and put an empty .40 case under the extractor and feel the tension when you wiggle it. You should feel the extractor grabbing it. Look at how it fits under the extractor and between the sides of the slide face.

Now do the same thing with a 9mm case. You will see and probably feel the difference. When you get the new extractor in see if that changes your tension. Remember, these are cast parts and not milled so each Is different. Make sure the extractor moves freely In the slide otherwise lightly sand, stone or file the top and bottom to remove any burs. Then, there is a fitting pad on the inside/underneath below the claw. It looks like a small square shelf. You can remove material slowly, I took off about .005, to allow the extractor to pivot further toward the case and grab the extraction groove better. I have had to almost remove the pad on some to make them run 9mm's. It will take some trial and error.

This extractor tuning works well on Glocks that throw brass in your face too. It will make them throw brass to the side more consistently.

On the 13lb spring. It might work when you get the ejection worked out. I shoot an 11lb in mine to shoot minor. I use a 14lb for major. If I go to a15lb I start having ejection problems again.

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Did you order the 90 or the 15? Either will work but the 90 will stick out in your slide a little.

No idea what that refers to. I bought this: https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=533&TERM=extractor

Thanks, I'll spend some time on this trying to get it to work. Actually just got a Glock 34 in a trade today, but I'm not sure if I want to make it a 3 gun pistol or keep it for HD. If I can't get this to work, I'll just turn that into the race gun and hopefully get that better reliability out of it.

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That is the 90 degree one. If you had a lci extractor your slide will probably be 15 degree. They went from a 90 to a 15 cut on the ejection port to supposedly aid ejection. The 90 will work but stick out in the port a little. I put a. 90 in mine cause that's what I had. It works after I tuned it.

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