XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Got my new dillon powder check, first off it came with 2- .44-.45 bars instead of the .30 rod I need. But any how it starred to adjust like instructions say but found that out of five rounds one would only be in check all others would sound alarm. Is there some trick to this madness or am I better off selling on eBay. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Got my new dillon powder check, first off it came with 2- .44-.45 bars instead of the .30 rod I need. But any how it starred to adjust like instructions say but found that out of five rounds one would only be in check all others would sound alarm. Is there some trick to this madness or am I better off selling on eBay. Mixed brass or same? Are your powder drops truly consistent? When it sounds, is the powder check rod consistently high or consistently low? The continue adjusting the powder check rod. If triggering both high and low, adjust the black push rod so it exerts less pressure on the buzzer housing (i.e., make it less sensitive). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) Same brass. Ok I'll try that this morning. I thought about it but wasn't sure if it had to be pushed all the way up or not Edited May 3, 2014 by XxWoodsHunterxX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmland Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Some times it is just an adjustment problem, provided your powder drop / measure is working correctly. Every once in awhile I'm plagued with the buzzer going off every few rounds. I check the powder and it is right on. Thus comes the pain in the neck to get the adjustment done. It always goes that I had it just out of adjustment or something was loose. Personally I think they are over priced so I only have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I had problems also, and because an over charge or squib is a potential hazzard to me health I use the look see tool. If I see the powder then its there. No buzzer needed. Simple devise, but does work. JMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sigsauerfan Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) Got my new dillon powder check, first off it came with 2- .44-.45 bars instead of the .30 rod I need. But any how it starred to adjust like instructions say but found that out of five rounds one would only be in check all others would sound alarm. Is there some trick to this madness or am I better off selling on eBay. Mixed brass or same? Are your powder drops truly consistent? When it sounds, is the powder check rod consistently high or consistently low? The continue adjusting the powder check rod. If triggering both high and low, adjust the black push rod so it exerts less pressure on the buzzer housing (i.e., make it less sensitive). this Edited May 3, 2014 by sigsauerfan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 What caliber are you loading? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) I was setting up for .223 but I will load it in .380 also since l load about 1500 at a time I adjusted so it's not as sensitive and it seems to be working better for .223 powder was dead on @ 26.5grs blc2 every round. Edited May 4, 2014 by XxWoodsHunterxX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 The PowderCheck sensor for.223 is prone to hanging up on the case neck and giving false-high readings. I smoothed mine with sandpaper and a drill press to cure this problem... worth looking at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Drill press as in to hold rid while sanding I'm taking it? I will, so far I haven't had any hang ups but I'll double check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerassassin22 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 I use pliers and a wrench after I get it adjusted so it don't slip. I did notice yesterday it went off a few times for no reason powder was correct, I figured when I took of my shell plate i didn't put it back on exactly the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Drill press as in to hold rid while sanding I'm taking it? I will, so far I haven't had any hang ups but I'll double check Chuck up the rod in the drill press, start it spinning, then shape as shown (right side image) using abrasive paper. Hope this is clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Drill press as in to hold rid while sanding I'm taking it? I will, so far I haven't had any hang ups but I'll double check Chuck up the rod in the drill press, start it spinning, then shape as shown (right side image) using abrasive paper. Hope this is clear. Figured that much just wanted to be sure. Sounds easy enough Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anm2_man Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I have to disagree with Stealthy on this one. I have never had my Powder check hang up on the neck of the round. If you make the rod to pointed, it will have a hard time sitting on the powder. I think it really depends on the type of powder your using. That modification with Flake Powder will be all over the scale. It would probably work with a ball powder. The goal is to measure the powder with a flat surface, not a pointed one. Its going to want to penetrate it vs sitting on top of it. The powder check system really should only be used for a "No Powder/low Powder or double charge and if its a double charge, your going to have powder all over the shell plate. The problem with .223 rounds is that the case is narrow and the powder has a hard time settling in the case vs. any other round. I have found that if I get a bell going off, It because the powder hasn't settled its always been right on. When I'm loading .223, I set the powder check adjustment at its least sensitive position. Now with 9mm I set that check on the money, because I want to know if I'm off .5gr which could be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 I have to disagree with Stealthy on this one. I have never had my Powder check hang up on the neck of the round. If you make the rod to pointed, it will have a hard time sitting on the powder. I think it really depends on the type of powder your using. That modification with Flake Powder will be all over the scale. It would probably work with a ball powder. The goal is to measure the powder with a flat surface, not a pointed one. Its going to want to penetrate it vs sitting on top of it. The powder check system really should only be used for a "No Powder/low Powder or double charge and if its a double charge, your going to have powder all over the shell plate. The problem with .223 rounds is that the case is narrow and the powder has a hard time settling in the case vs. any other round. I have found that if I get a bell going off, It because the powder hasn't settled its always been right on. When I'm loading .223, I set the powder check adjustment at its least sensitive position. Now with 9mm I set that check on the money, because I want to know if I'm off .5gr which could be a problem.Good point. I just decided to scrap the .223 idea and use it strictly on my pistol rounds anyhow. But none the less all good advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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