19852 Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 So my question is in regards to range brass. I just started reloading .38 super. Not for a race gun, just for fun. I learned long ago to not pick up 9mm brass after a USPSA match that had open category shooters. I have some .38 super brass from an unknown source. It looks OK but when resizing some of them seemed to buckle a little near the mouth. Would this be sign of worn out brass? Sort of a wash board effect. Thanks, 19852 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Case lube ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19852 Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Roger that Top! I use Hornady One Shot. I sprayed my brass the usual amount but I plan to use more next time and spray the die too. They are brand new dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Roger that Top! I use Hornady One Shot. I sprayed my brass the usual amount but I plan to use more next time and spray the die too. They are brand new dies. Just to be clear (can't believe I am doing this), but should we assume Hornady One Shot case lube (versus the Gun Cleaner)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19852 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 RDA, I didn't know Hornady made One Shot gun cleaner. Yes, One Shot case lube. Yesterday I did some more resizing with more case lube than before. I did pre-lube the die as well. No buckling or wash boarding of the brass. Some resized effortlessly some took effort but at least it was slippery effort.. What should one look for regarding over used brass? Are there tell tail signs? I reload lots of 9mm and .38spl and I have no trouble finding one fired brass lying around. .38 super not so much so I find myself trying to use what I can find. I just bought some that I haven't tried yet, supposed to be good condition once fired but we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 When it splits, sell to scrap dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverBolt Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Not sure you will see any visible signs unless the case has already failed. The 9mm major failures I have seen have all been the case head separating from the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A63111 Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 You may see a line just above the base, sometimes it is very shiny, some I have loaded will then shave down to a bulge, scrap them. Look at the primers very hot loads will be flat, no rounding and almost no line visible between the case and primer, these will size harder and MAY fail early. As previously mentioned look for splits at the mouth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 This is a rifle trick, but will work. Take a piece of wire (paper clip) and put a 90 degree bend on the end about 1/8th of an inch long and run this down the inside of the case. If you feel a small depression in the case wall just at the top of the radius at the bottom of the case which extends all or mostly all around the case, you are about to experience a separation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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