gcambi Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 OK guys I'm feeling like a complete failure. I can't seem to adequately secure the Dillon trimmer to my toolhead. I'm processing 223 brass on a 650 with the trimmer at station3. Regardless of how I tighten the locking rings, they eventually move when I start the motor. Any tips? I'm getting inconsistant trim lengths, even before the trimmer shifts,...thoughts? I have tried 3 different dies, and cannot get brass that fits the Dillon gauge. I'm comparing my brass to professionally processed brass as a guide. Thanks All Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) grab the trimmer motor before you turn it on and hold it until it spins up. it will stay tight. Also, putting another lock ring below the tool head will help too, but still hold the motor during startup. Best is to have a lock ring with a set screw. I get the best consistency with a Dillon full length carbide sizer decapper with expander ball first and setting it to do about 75% of the sizing. then finish the sizing with the trimmer. if it still doesn't make guage set the trim die down more toward the shellplate, but be sure to re-set your trim length. jj Edited January 8, 2014 by RiggerJJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gatnfans Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 I have a 550 and was having the same problem and used a Hornady Sure-Loc die locking ring on the trim die and tightened it as tight as I could before stripping the allen screw. Then I used the locking nut that came with the trimmer to lock it to the die and since then I have not had a problem. I marked the locking nut and trimmer with a sharpie so I can see if the trimmer has moved when I am trimming my brass. As for the trim lengths my first thoughts is are you using the same pressure/speed/consistency during the trimming phase. I know if I get in a rush sometimes I don't bottom out the shell plate and I can get a longer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 If you are getting inconsistent lengths, then hold the toolhead down when cutting count to 1002....Listen to the cutting. You will hear when it is done cutting and then can cycle through for another case. Separate your brass as well. When you set up for LC brass and have it trimming them at .750 just understand that any FC brass will be trimmed down to .740. It is just the way the brass is manufactured. If you want to alleviate that or load to max pressure then separate your brass but if you process a lot of it that is what you will get. DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanq Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 I have to put the lock ring on the bottom, like I must do for many non-dillon dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmclaine Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 My solution here http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=185490 I had a set screw installed in the lock ring for the motor. It allows me to swap th motor from one caliber to the next without loosing my setting, it made setting the trim cut easier, it allows me to snug the motor better to prevent it torquing loose on start up. Just an idea for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastshooter03 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 I notice that the oal will shrink by as much as .005" as the motor heats up. You can add an O-ring under the nut to keep it from loosening. Use a good lube like Royal. NIck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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