Open glock light strikes

[dskinsler83]

It is just the tip and only by about .003" which just give a touch more contact and it was supposed to read to that you must ensure that there is plenty travel. If the angle of the connect is too steep it will drive the trigger bar down faster which does not allow the striker to be carried back in the channel as far as it possibly can

[dskinsler83]

Connectors being out of spec from the manufacture has happened more than once

Some of the ones I have modified have caused the same issue when figuring out my stuff too.

Extended strikers in glocks are as common as an extended FP in a 1911. It's cheap insurance and worth the cost.

Jäger, Vanek, ZEV and now myself all realize this and thus why we all offer them.

Edited February 4, 2014 by dskinsler83

[BoyGlock]

Thank you sir

[eric nielsen]

Things to check in order of importance:

1. pull striker assy, run q-tip down tunnel, see if there are tiny primer shavings in there. check often.

2. ditch all the light striker springs. factory w/2 coils cut off is about as light as you dare w/any primer

3. check for free movement of striker, no friction from safety plunger. w/empty gun, dry fire and shake gun, should hear the rattle of the striker moving about freely

4. if #3 above only happens while holding the trigger back, you need to back off your trigger overtravel stop

5. get a lightened, extended striker. but don't think that exempts you from #2 above.

edit: Once all the above is done and your gun runs reliably with Winchester, Remington, or CCI primers, that's when you proceed to the hoarding of all Federal #100 primers in North America, and learn how to crunch-seat those primers. You can feel each primer seat and use sufficient force on each seating if you use a Dillon Square Deal, 550, or 650 press. With those presses you can use the off-hand to provide opposing leverage: right hand pushes handle forward, left hand pulls back on some sturdy part of the press.

I've done this 20+ years and broken one part total: the big crank handle of a Square Deal. Best man at my wedding broke a 550 crank handle. If you load with a 1050 press you cannot feel the seating taking place; you have to adjust the seating depth and cross your fingers. All this applies to revolver shooters too.

PS: You don't want to use Federal 100's with Open powders that run through the flash hole, you're likely to melt or even blast clear through a Fed primer. Get a thicker primer or get a bulkier powder to shoot Open.

Edited February 4, 2014 by eric nielsen

[jimbullet]

Eric, I have done all of the steps you have detailed with the exception of item 5 as I could not find one readily available in our local store. I will try it out in the next few days and cross fingers that it has eliminated the light strikes as well.

[dskinsler83]

I deff agree you have to SEAT the primers FIRM in a GLOCK and use good springs.

[Demented1]

wea re having the same issue with my sons glock 34. we have the zev firing pin and just changed back to the 3# spring hopefully this will work. thanks for the inout everyone really helps!

[jimbullet]

#3 spring? Is that 3 lbs you mean? I was using 4 lbs striker spring, stock trigger and I get light strikes.

[dskinsler83]

#3 spring? Is that 3 lbs you mean? I was using 4 lbs striker spring, stock trigger and I get light strikes.

They are referring to the standard power striker spring that comes in the ZEV kits. It's marked as the 3# trigger pull in the kit