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My first experience loading 308 for an AR-10


SWThomas

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So I have a GA Precision GAP-10 that I'm going to start reloading for. I've got plenty of Nosler brass, Mil brass, Black Hills brass, and some headstamped RP. I got some Sierra MK 175g HPBT bullets for punching paper and some Barnes 180g TSX bullets for hunting. I'll load the Barnes bullets later. For primers I got the CCI #34 military primers. I'm planning to use Varget for my loads but I also have some IMR 8208 XBR. I finally got all the gear I needed to load up some test rounds and here's how it went.

I decided to start with the batch of Black Hills brass (which bites be in the ass later). All of this brass has been fired in the GAP-10 so it's formed to its chamber.

- I used my bump gauge and set the sizing die on the Dillon to bump the shoulder back .003-.005. I did everything in accordance with the instructions and sized a batch of 50.

- Next I trimmed all of the brass to 2.005 and deburred/chamfered them. I also use a primer pocket cleaning tool and cleaned out all the pockets.

- While I tumbled the case-lube off, I figured out my seating depth.

- I used a comparator and sorted all the Sierras in groups within .005 of each other.

- I got the GAP-10 out and used a seating depth tool to get me on the lands. The measurement on the tool was 1.643 and the average bullet length on the batch I chose was 1.250. This meant that 2.893 OAL put the ojive of the bullets right on the lands.

- I assembled a dummy round. The neck tension is plenty tight so I did not crimp the bullet. I chambered that assembled dummy round with the force of the bolt and it chambered and extracted just fine. No change in OAL so it wasn't too long.

- Next I checked to ensure it would fit in the magazine, and low and behold, it did not. I was expecting this. I had to seat the bullet deeper to an OAL of 2.827 to get it to fit in the magazine. So the comparator sorting and seating tool were pretty much a waste of time. But they'll come in handy when I load something for a bolt rifle.

- Next I get the Dillon set up for large primers and get it loaded up with 50 of the CCI #34s. I got the Varget and the powder trickler ready and got the brass out of the tumbler.

Unfortunately, this is where I stopped. I found out the hard way that Black Hills crimps their 308 brass and I couldn't seat any primers. The Noslers and RP brass are not crimped but I ran out of time. I haven't gotten a tool to swage pockets yet so I couldn't go any further. But once I do I think I got it all figured out.

Is there anything you see here that I did wrong or have any advice for a beginner?

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Go to Home Depot and get a Countersink for about $10. Get the one with the widest (most shallow cutting) blade. You can use this as a cheap fix to remove the crimp from the brass till your swage tool gets to you.

I bump the brass all the down (i.e.: the die touches the shell plate) to ensure reliable feeding, other than that it seems like you're off to a good start!

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  • 3 weeks later...

If you're getting 1moa 10 rd groups and good sd and ES then I'd stop there and call it good. There is simply not that much else you need to do for a ln ar10 rifle. Some are more finicky about cycling properly but varget and 175s should be well within the proper pressure curve for the gun. Don't hot-rod in a .308 gas gun like you might in a bolt gun.

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