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327 Ti Cylinder


RevolverJockey

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No timeline, the guy that helped me said they were sending every finished part to production, not sales, so he thought it could be a few months. I didn't think they were currently putting TI cylinders in any 8 shots, but they also may not be making any right now.

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So what are you trying to accomplish with a Ti cylinder in an 8-shot?

The peening problems that we see with the stainless 6-shot revolvers do not tend to appear on the 8-shot guns--at least nowhere nearly as often.

I say spend your money on primers or whatever.

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The 627 cylinders don't have the same problem? I was under the impression that all the stainless cylinders had this problem? I have replaced my 686 cylinder already, granted it was over 35k, driven pretty hard, which is 3 times longer than my first 625 stainless, but eventually they don't wear out? My plan was to keep shooting the stainless until it was done, and swap for the TI, is this a bad plan?

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Nothing wrong with that plan, if you actually wind up wearing out your 627 cylinder.

There is presumably nothing inherently better about the metallurgy in the 627 cylinders, but I don't believe I have heard of 627s with worn out stop notches the way we have seen on 625s. My own personal 627 has been shot quite a lot, and while there is some visible peening, the gun has never exhibited any tendency to skip. I cannot say the same of my main 625--although I am fairly gentle in the way I handle it, the notches got damaged enough that I finally had to replace the cylinder.

Has anybody here had severe peening issues with a 627 cylinder--to the point that it creates functional troubles?

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I replaced the stainless cylinder on my 627 with a Ti cylinder when the SS one began to skip. The Ti cylinder lasted a year or so before it started skipping too. Since then I have had the cylinder stop replaced, the grooves in the cylinder worked on, and even the timing changed, but it still skips. The latest diagnosis is that the hole in the breach face where the cylinder locks up is oblong. Anyone else have this issue?

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The latest diagnosis is that the hole in the breach face where the cylinder locks up is oblong. Anyone else have this issue?

I had my main 625 repaired for this from 1000's of practice reloads, it wasn't skipping but you could push on the back of the cylinder when closed and it moved enough that the end of the ejector rod unlocked. Some weld this up and re-machine but my experience has been when you weld it it has to be a fairly soft weld (close to the stock Stainless) so it can be machined. It will not hold up very long until it needs done again.

I have a friend that is a Gunsmith/machinist that has done quite a few of these repairs. He bores out the old hole and makes a bushing out of drillrod that is press fit into breach face and remachined. Drill rod is harder than the stock stainless and can still be machined. The best part is if the drill rod does get beat out of shape just he can just press out the old one and press in a new one. Kinda like the firing pin bushing.

PM me if you want his contact info and I can send it to you.

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