openglock34 Posted November 8, 2004 Share Posted November 8, 2004 this is my first time posting here. i own a glock 34 that i have been trying to build as an open gun for a while now.. what i have done so far is the ACC magwell from top glock, trigger overtravel stop from lone wolf, lone wolf 6 port stainless barrel, carver competition c-more mount, cmore sight, stainless guide rod, 14 lb spring, extended ejector, lowered ejection port, and the normal stuff that comes with the 34 (3.5 lb trigger, extended mag release,extended slide catch) im having problems with the slide locking back which is probably because im dumping too much gas and not using a hot enough round, and i was having problems with ejection which was fixed with the ejector and the lowered port.. i was going to give up and make it a glock 17 with a caspian slide, but they are not available till spring so i will try to make this glock function even though it is rare to see an open 34. i want to get rid of the barrel and do a comp and lighten the slide to help it eject a little better. but i need advice. does anyone know of or own a glock 34 open gun that functions perfect? if so how did they do it could you give me some hints? also does anyone make a slide racker for a glock to utilize the rear sight opening? thank you for whatever info you have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted November 8, 2004 Share Posted November 8, 2004 John "the Mad Scientist" Nagel on the forum builds great Open Glocks and will hopefully will chime in here. On the slide locking issue, dump the extended slide release and see if the problem goes away. Many people hit the exteneded release with their left hand during recoil and lock the slide back. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openglock34 Posted November 9, 2004 Author Share Posted November 9, 2004 thanks for the info..hopefully mr nagel will grace me with his presense because i could definately use a mad scientist..as for the slide locking back..i think i may have stated the problem wrong...the slide doesnt lock back at all..as in not enough pressure to fully send the slide to the rear and chamber a new round sometimes..it will half feed a round into the chamber (as in it will not go all the way to the rear and push the round into the chamber..it cathches the rear of it not the lip and only half feeds it in..so the bottom of the round is touching the magazine and the tip is up the feed ramp) but i think that is just not a hot enough load..who knows..thanks for all your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AH6IP Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Maybe to much recoil spring. Read this- Spring Wars for Glocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 ISMI spring, right? Order it thru Brownells? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openglock34 Posted November 9, 2004 Author Share Posted November 9, 2004 the spring im currently using is a wolf 14# on a stainless guide rod (wolf is junk, i know ive heard) and i used someone elses ismi 13# to see if it worked..not much better..maybe a 12#? eh who knows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Wolf are good springs. So are ISMI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbglock35 Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 I built an open 35, I know 40 is different, but I use 155 gr bullets which are light so i can utilize a hotter load to create more pressure, i have a KKM barrel with a four port comp that helps push the nose down. with a glock being so light. try a tungston guide rod too. with the slid locking back, i just got rid of the slide release totaly. most S_I guns dont lock back after last round anyway. I'm going to put lighting cuts in it to make the slide work faster. Tom Novak was supposed to make a slide racker, haven't heard if he is producing them yet. i also slid the scope mount plate on the carver mount back to center it on the gun to minamize dot movement. I am very happey with the performance of the KKm barrel. very accurate. if you have any questions or want pics E-mail me dbohach@myway.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 I really don't know what you have, can your take some pictures? Going off the "let's try this theory"... First, check to see how much slide travel you actually have. I asked about the recoil spring (rod could be a factor too) to see if you had lost slide travel distance compared to stock. Next, I would pull the scope and mount and I would pull the magwell and it's attachment parts. Get rid of that stuff, then test fire the gun. See if the feed problem goes away. (sometimes those parts can get screwed on in a way that warps the frame...which causes drag). Is this your barrel and "comp"? Lone Wolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openglock34 Posted November 10, 2004 Author Share Posted November 10, 2004 yes that is the exact barrel im using..its ok, nothing special was going to be temporary until i bought a caspian slide and turned my 34 into a 34 with a 17 upper kkm barrel etc but there will be no caspian 17 slides made until spring per caspian..so ive been reinspired to make my 34 work..i will change the barrel to a kkm with comp once i am for certain i can get a setup that will work..i did slide back the cmore mount and mill new holes in it so it sits back even with the rear of my slide..now none of the ported gas hits the base of the mount. that seems to do a hair..oh well its getting closer..it works with real hot ammo thoug, i dont have the specs on it because i dont load it..another forum member theo loads them for his comped 17..but until then ill shoot his loads and wait for barrel advice..ill include pics later so everyone can see what im talking about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 If you do a search for "Open Glock" in the gallery section, you'll see my G34. It runs like a top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Open glock 34, I am assuming that the problem That you had are with light or factory loads. with all the porting in that barel I would think you would need to run close to a major power factor load. I would not lighten a 34 slide any at all as they are right on the edge of being to light .i would not go below a 14 pond spring in an open glock. The glock does not have the dwell time like a 1911 so weight and spring rate are what controls slide velocity. I would try bumping up the load over a chrono. But be warned that those barrels are not suported as much as I like and you do so at your own risk. If you cant figure it out drop me an e-mail and a # and I will help you thru it. Johnnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openglock34 Posted November 11, 2004 Author Share Posted November 11, 2004 here is a picture of my glock if it helps anyone..http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/shawnyballs/detail?.dir=45e4&.dnm=2cba.jpg the picture is pretty blurry but you can get the idea..the cmore sits about 1/8" above the slide all this is great advice..i will shoot major power factor because that definately does help..does anyone have a recomendation on barrel setup? i will do a kkm..but should i go with a comp. i want the least complications possible..when the mad scientist says play with power factor at own risk..what does that mean...will the gun not function? blow up..not sure what he meant by that im definately curious..OR..should i just call this glock a lost call..make it a limited 10 and just buy a glock 17 like everyone else and start over.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryucasta Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Open Glock34, When trying to look at the picture the following message pops up "The File You Are Looking For Is Inaccessible. Please sign in and try again or check with the owner of the file." Since you are planning to shoot major with your G34 is the version of your frame a 2 or 3 pin? If 2 pin forget going major with it. The prototype Glock 22 was 2 pin it had problems during the CHP test which is why Glock went to 3 pin on the G2x series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openglock34 Posted November 11, 2004 Author Share Posted November 11, 2004 http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/4192bf69zb5...htr9kBB24OMQ.s4 im trying to insert the photo so you can just view it without going anywhere, however computers are not my specialty..ive checked this link and it should open a photo of my glock..when you say three pin im not sure what you mean..it is a brand new 34 not even 3 months old. and it has the block pin, trigger pin, and the pin that holds the ejector/trigger housing..so there are three pins if thats what you mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 this is my first time posting here. i own a glock 34 that i have been trying to build as an open gun for a while now.. what i have done so far is the ACC magwell from top glock, trigger overtravel stop from lone wolf, lone wolf 6 port stainless barrel, carver competition c-more mount, cmore sight, stainless guide rod, 14 lb spring, extended ejector, lowered ejection port, and the normal stuff that comes with the 34 (3.5 lb trigger, extended mag release,extended slide catch) im having problems with the slide locking back which is probably because im dumping too much gas and not using a hot enough round, and i was having problems with ejection which was fixed with the ejector and the lowered port.. i was going to give up and make it a glock 17 with a caspian slide, but they are not available till spring so i will try to make this glock function even though it is rare to see an open 34. i want to get rid of the barrel and do a comp and lighten the slide to help it eject a little better. but i need advice. does anyone know of or own a glock 34 open gun that functions perfect? if so how did they do it could you give me some hints? also does anyone make a slide racker for a glock to utilize the rear sight opening?thank you for whatever info you have OG34, What mags, mag springs and followers are you using? It could also be mag or ammo issues that keeps the rounds from going into battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openglock34 Posted November 12, 2004 Author Share Posted November 12, 2004 for now i am using factory 10 round magazines nothing special..until it functions i am not going to bring it to an offical ipsc match..at which point i will be using factory high caps with +5 extensions..but for now its just the factory..it doesnt work at all with winchester 115gn..but i think its obvious why..tonight i am going to a local match and will be using reloaded ammo that another member theo uses for his glock 17 to make major..not exactly sure the particulars on this round but i know it works in his comped 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 Open glock34, What I am infering about is the amount of support in the chamber area.When loading to major power factor you exceeded the presure limits of a standard barrel and you could exsperience a case falure at the feed ramp. comanly Known as the glock smiley . I thought a great deal about your set up and was visualizing how the porting is done and the relationship of the mount over the top of same .I hypothisize that the blast of the ports is pushing up on the mount bending the frame in the middle as flex pointed out and binding up the gun enought to slow the slide to faliure. The only other exsplination is that the foot of the barrel is a little tight and taking enough energy away from the slide to unlock the action casing the faliure. My guns are set up this way and can be a single shot for 500 to 1000 rounds. There is a break in period on tight guns that can be frustrating . you question everything and all of a sudden the gun just starts runing. Ho many rounds are thru on this setup????? Dont give up stay the course you will feel a sense of satisfaction when you lick it. Johnnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openglock34 Posted November 12, 2004 Author Share Posted November 12, 2004 mad scientist.... its like you talked my gun into working..i took the mount and moved it back so now the only thing covering the ports is the blast shield and that is over the first 2 ports, but not a major deal i dont think because it doesnt completely stop the gas from escaping, it just redirects it..also i took my 14lb wolff spring and took 1 coil off of it to start and for some reason at last nights match it just worked..i cant explain why, it just did. the only problem which didnt bother me was that only on the 4th and final stage of fire after my first mag change did the slide lock to the rear. the other times it did not. but that is the least of my worries. i also tried before the match using major power factor bullets with the 14 lb spring..and nothing..the spring was too light, it would chamber a round but not go fully into battery, and therefor would not even fire (trigger wouldnt pull) so i put the factory spring setup up back in with major power factor and it worked like a charm..hell i think i might be onto something here. this forum has given my 34 more progress in two days then i have made in a month. i appreciate all of your help.. call me greedy but i am debating a compensated kkm barrel with one of brian hawleys setups..but i wonder if that is just getting greedy because what i have now seems to work and shoot flat..with the major power factor there is a LARGE increase in muzzle rise..not sure a comp would even be better then the 6 ports im using now..oh well i think i like the project aspect of it, it gives me something to do by never settling with just one thing or project...one last note..anyone know or developed a slide racker that would maybe slide into the rear sight mount and be held in place by a simple set screw threaded right down through the top of it? if it does exist id like one.. if it doesnt i wish i had a cnc machine and a background in engineering. thanks for all your help, shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryucasta Posted November 13, 2004 Share Posted November 13, 2004 Originally all of the 9x19 Glock's did not have a locking pin block (2 pin) it's only recently that they do (3 Pin) so it’s a good thing that you have a recently manufactured frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted November 15, 2004 Share Posted November 15, 2004 Open glock 34 , I am glad that your gun is working good. I am convenced that any pressure from ports will gum up the works as you described.The great thing about a Glock can be its down fall also . the flexible frame takes some of the recoil but also lends itself to frame binding if any outside forces are applied. For a slide racker you can get a 1911 and grind it or machine it to fit.Also Tom at HGO has a unit specificly made for your aplication. Give him a try He rely is a nice guy and has a lot of neet stuf for the Glock. another option is to open the dove tail up to acept a dawson slide racker .As far as a diferent barrel and comp set up goes I would wait for a caspion slide and get the KKM hybride set up.I shoot one and realy like the performance level. There also is a set up on a stock slide that i have tried recently that performed realy well . The short gun with small blast holes and a short 2 port comp.I dont know how they will hold up but they are good shooters.(stock slides worrie me as to there service life)but that is what we have to work with right now. Johnnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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