Best way to dimple 2011 slide stop lever

[kamikaze1a]

Researching how to add a dimple/detent to a 2011 slide stop lever. The most popular seems to be with a drill bit or file a notch across the face.

Though both methods probably are effective, what would be more "professional"? I was wondering about a small round end carbide burr? Or maybe start with a drill bit and finish with the burr?

Thanks!

[38superfan]

I would think a drill bit of the correct size and the dimple in the correct position would more than suffice. How much more professional does a dimple need to be than being in the right place?

[HI5-O]

I tried using the special "drill bit" made for this purpose but found the slide stop too hard, so I used my Dremel with the burr bit to get started then finished with the bit.

[kamikaze1a]

Thanks for the tips! I will clamp the stop between blocks of wood and then try a burr or bit first. How about a small stone bit to finish the dimple? A spinning stone might give a nicer finish than a carbide burr or drill bit?

[HI5-O]

Check to make sure the stone spins true, otherwise the dimple will be huge.

[kamikaze1a]

Roger that...will be trying a Dremel bit on a drill press. Considerable reduced RPM's so hoping it will work out. Thanks

[openmike]

I use the special tool that goes thru to plunger tube bore and trys to dimple to slide stop. (but you're right, it's too hard)

It serves only to mark to location for a center drill or ball mill when zeroed in my mill.

[38superfan]

Make sure to use a stone or file to knock down any ridges created by whichever tool you choose.

[wes777]

Researching how to add a dimple/detent to a 2011 slide stop lever. The most popular seems to be with a drill bit or file a notch across the face.

Though both methods probably are effective, what would be more "professional"? I was wondering about a small round end carbide burr? Or maybe start with a drill bit and finish with the burr?

Thanks!

Dremel tungsten carbide cutter

slotted like so:

Edit to add: Sharpie is your friend, start high and work down.

Edited August 24, 2013 by wes777

[HI5-O]

Looks like I gotta find me one of them tungsten carbide dremel sized cutters.

[JimmyZip]

I find various sizes of these at the metal supply house. I use various sizes. They are solid carbide, and will fracture if you bind them. I use them to feather super tight welds when doing finish work. I have also used them in the mill. They are tough enough to use in a die grinder, so I am not saying you can't use them. But I have bound them with a mill behind them and watched them come apart. Then again I am not often patient when doing production work, and I get impatient and things get broken. YMWBBTM. (You Mileage Will Be Better Than Mine)

[wes777]

I find various sizes of these at the metal supply house. I use various sizes. They are solid carbide, and will fracture if you bind them. I use them to feather super tight welds when doing finish work. I have also used them in the mill. They are tough enough to use in a die grinder, so I am not saying you can't use them. But I have bound them with a mill behind them and watched them come apart. Then again I am not often patient when doing production work, and I get impatient and things get broken. YMWBBTM. (You Mileage Will Be Better Than Mine)

does not require a mill, or much pressure. Dremel and 5 minutes. Mark it, take a little bit off and test. repeat until desired resistance is reached. As a side benefit. approaching it from the side (see picture) helps guide the slide stop into place.

[Loves2Shoot]

I mill and ball end mill makes quick work of it.

[kamikaze1a]

The bits arrived but resolved the issue and did not need the dimple after all. Thanks for everyone's input!