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First build question


Agney5

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I will be starting gunsmithing school this fall and one of our projects is building a 1911. The frame and slide are Caspian and a Kart barrel, which I see no issue with. My question is what does everyone suggest for internals? The list given is mostly brown parts or Wilson value line parts, but I would like to build a bit nicer. So what is everyone's suggestions I'm not really worried about the price, I just want to do it right the first time.

Also it will have an ambi safety and my experience with Wilson's was not a good one. The trigger itself is also something I'll be picky about, I hate when you have an otherwise great trigger but there is a bunch of play both vertically and horizontally. I'm not taking about pre travel just play in general.

Thanks for the help guys and gals,

Jarred

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I figured that would be on the list, but is that all you would use. I've herd of some people mix matching so would you go all with one brand or does anyone have specific parts they get from didn't places.

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I lean towards EGW sears, barrel bushings, ejectors, extractors and pin sets. Hammers, because they're visible, well... that can be a style thing, so I'll leave that alone, other than to say I'm partial to ring hammers, so I tend to use Harrison Design. Caspian makes a "big ring" hammer that looks cool, but requires quite a bit of hook prep. Speaking of Harrison Design, you could do a lot worse if all you used were his internals. Remember that he does sell a complete ignition set with a pre-prepped TR sear... if you won't be doing your own sear prep.

As to the ambi safety. Being a lefty myself, I've done a great deal of research. The Novak and Lippard are great designs but will rub the web of your thumb... badly. They work better for right handed folks who shoot lefty occasionally.

The Caspian "internal locking" is a terrific design that is poorly executed and will require quite a bit of prep to bring to a quality fit and finish - too bad as I really love the design. If you don't mind a Swenson style, "tongue and groove" joint, grip retention type safety, the CNC billet, SVI-Infinity is top of the line.

A reasonably priced, cast safety that uses a T&G joint and hammer pin retention, that is very well made and finished is the Kimber unit - the built in stop on the right lever prevents over stressing the particularly snug fitting and well executed T&G joint. A good, hidden retention ambi on a budget.

The Wilson Combat BP - The unique, "modified T&G" is very well supported in the frame tangs, the adjustable right lever dovetail is useful and the entire unit is exceptionally well made and finished. Like the Kimber, it also has a right lever internal stop, but unlike the Kimber, it has a closed bottom, which means that dirt accumulation can't escape... which may or may not be an issue for you.

Thats, it...

C

Edited by creeper1956
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Infinity, Texas made, ALL billet barstock, and Brandon spends more time finishing parts than anyone I have ever heard of...square edges, highly polished matter to them as much as the quality of the parts. Their hammer styles are also very cool. Whatever you want.

Lee

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So I also like Harrison Design the parts are well made and finished. There is no question about SVI quality I am just partial to the EGW design hammers and I have used their sear's almost exclusively without issue achieving crisp, clean & consistent engagement. Ed Brown makes good parts too. I think the most important things regardless of the manufacture is Made In USA and must be billet.

The exception to this is in my current open gun I used the cylinder-slide SPEED II CHAMFERED 3.0 TRIGGER PULL SET because at the time I was really diggin' on the way the hammer looked. It has been flawless as well.

Since you are pursuing gunsmithing I can't see how you will go wrong with any good choice because you will be wanting to try it all then form your own opinions and preferences for crafting a fine pistola!

Good luck with the build and be ok with making mistakes it is great learning experience as the mistake provides an opportunity to fix it!

ETA: The EGW billet grip safety is just wonderful! There is so much meat that you can really create the perfect shape and fit. IMHO

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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Thanks for the help guys, we do all our own fitting and finishing so I'm not really looking for any pre fit parts. Plus I'll have everything already parts wise but wanted to go a bit nicer than what came with the kit. So I have a set to practice on then this will be my final product parts. I'm sure I'll be doing some more research of my own but it's easier to have a starting point.

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Extreme Engineering ignition parts.

Caspian firing pin

EGW fixing pin stop

Wolff recoil spring and 19# mainspring

STI Ambi safety

S&A mainspring housing or mag well MSH

10-8 Flat Face trigger

Get the rest of the small parts from Gary at Caspian

That's what I have used in a few guns.

Of course you know we expect you to take lots of pics and post a step-by-step tutorial to educate us on all your new skills :)

Related, I have become a fan of the True Radius jig for making short roll triggers. Roll versus crisp is a preference thing, but you should know how to do both for your future customers.

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Also I didn't see any specific mention of triggers, will any quality trigger be able to be properly fitted to remove the play that I so adamantly despise.

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Extreme Engineering ignition parts.

Caspian firing pin

EGW fixing pin stop

Wolff recoil spring and 19# mainspring

STI Ambi safety

S&A mainspring housing or mag well MSH

10-8 Flat Face trigger

Get the rest of the small parts from Gary at Caspian

That's what I have used in a few guns.

Of course you know we expect you to take lots of pics and post a step-by-step tutorial to educate us on all your new skills :)

Related, I have become a fan of the True Radius jig for making short roll triggers. Roll versus crisp is a preference thing, but you should know how to do both for your future customers.

I won't be starting the build for another couple months but I will definitely be posting pics. The gun will actually be going to my father as a Christmas present, which he doesn't know yet. We both served in the Marines, so I have two different paint schemes to work with. Of course there is the tacticool look or a dark blue with gold played controls and pearl grips with a blood red stripe running down the slide. I think that might be another thread. Lol

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I don't suggest you use drop in parts either and the C&S set up I used, although advertised as drop in, still needed a little love. Still great parts!

Triggers? Depends on the application, look and feel desired. In all of my competition 1911/2011 I use exclusively SVI with a long flat insert. In my carry gun I fit a Harrison Design. Sans a drop in part they will all need to be fitted to the gun.

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This will probably be mostly a toy, I'm sure he'll shoot some single stack with it. Hell I might shoot it some but if I had to guess what he would like it would be the flat face.

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