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Trigger striking frame *photos*


Ty Hamby

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I had a crunch in the trigger pull. Slight but noticeable. I took the side plate off and couldn't figure it out. I took the hammer off and discovered it was still there. Upon closer examination I see it is riding the frame and that is the point the trigger pull gets choppy. This is an original 627-PC.

There are less than 100 rounds through it. The trigger and hammer are slightly sloppier on the studs than my newer 627's with thousands and thousands of rounds on them. I am thinking the clearances from the original Lew Horton ones may have been more than the modern machines do today. What say you revolver junkies? Shim or clearance the trigger?

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Edited by Ty Hamby
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The goo is grease. Apex greased up the action when they fitted the Ti cylinder a while ago. I'll get some shims coming. Myself being left handed torques the trigger a little differently than others. I though new gun maybe it would slick up. Many dryfires later its only getting more pronounced so I slid the side plate off and discovered it was striking the frame. I have lots of time for me to dial this one into how I like it. This is my 2014 and beyond ICORE gun and not my backup or IRC primary. I'm giving up on 38 super.

Thanks guys.

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The trigger and hammer are slightly sloppier on the studs than my newer 627's with thousands and thousands of rounds on them. I am thinking the clearances from the original Lew Horton ones may have been more than the modern machines do today. What say you revolver junkies? Shim or clearance the trigger?

This is one of my biggest peeves. Shim that puppy.

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Looks like the stud may not be square to the frame. Soo, shim it. I almost always have 1 or 2 shims installed. If it still contacts trim the trigger a little. It's an area of no consequence in a DA only gun. You can bend the stud a little which is probably the "correct" fix but that has a higher chance for disaster.

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Gently see if the Stud will wiggle any. I've had several break. It is easy to bend them, but they should not have any wiggle in them.

If it's ok, shim it, I like to do both sides even. Just make sure the hammer still moves freely with the side plate on.

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Gently see if the Stud will wiggle any. I've had several break. It is easy to bend them, but they should not have any wiggle in them.

If it's ok, shim it, I like to do both sides even. Just make sure the hammer still moves freely with the side plate on.

Also check for hammer drag on side plate or frame. Couldn't count how many SWs I have had to fix with that problem. Most seem to lean to the right. Edited by bountyhunter
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