Patrick1981 Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Hi guys If I take this J frame kit from Midway .. the Apex XP firing pin inside this, is also good for my 686 ? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/312808/apex-tactical-duty-carry-spring-kit-s-and-w-j-frame-31-32-34-36-37-38-42-49-60-63-631-632-637-638-640-642-649 I hope yes, I read the C&S description is for J-K-L-N frame. Maybe is the XP firing pin (standard) with 2 J frame spring. Thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 It will work inside your N-Frame, same pin - But this kit looks like it includeds the " XP " firing pin , if that's what your looking for. I recommend , and I think alot of other people would too the competition firing pin for competition. https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid2.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 Compared to the C&S, the XP is better ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 I've used both, and both worked well... Though, I decided to change all my revolvers over to the apex competition firing pin for consistency , and I read somewhere that the apex is less prone to breaking over the c&s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 What's the difference between the Apex XP and competition firing pins? Is the competition pin for guns with severely lightened hammers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 What's the difference between the Apex XP and competition firing pins? Is the competition pin for guns with severely lightened hammers? The competition pin is pointy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 I've used both, and both worked well... Though, I decided to change all my revolvers over to the apex competition firing pin for consistency , and I read somewhere that the apex is less prone to breaking over the c&s. A wise man said to never dry fire an extended pin on an empty chamber, ever. He broke one at a pretty important match. Another wise told me to throw the C&S pin in garbage every 10k clicks/bangs. Personally I would do the same with an apex, just because. Firing pins are cheap, a broken pin in a match is the end of a match. A S&W factory guy told me to throw the cyl stop and spring in garbage every 6k. I asked if I could get them in value packs... These guys are smarter than me. My cyl stop will go more than 6k before getting swapped, but firing pins won't go much past 10k before getting tossed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 I've used both, and both worked well... Though, I decided to change all my revolvers over to the apex competition firing pin for consistency , and I read somewhere that the apex is less prone to breaking over the c&s. A wise man said to never dry fire an extended pin on an empty chamber, ever. He broke one at a pretty important match. Another wise told me to throw the C&S pin in garbage every 10k clicks/bangs. Personally I would do the same with an apex, just because. Firing pins are cheap, a broken pin in a match is the end of a match. A S&W factory guy told me to throw the cyl stop and spring in garbage every 6k. I asked if I could get them in value packs... These guys are smarter than me. My cyl stop will go more than 6k before getting swapped, but firing pins won't go much past 10k before getting tossed... Hm, I havent heard that comment on the cylinder stops and springs before... does that go strictly for MIM stops or all ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 I've used both, and both worked well... Though, I decided to change all my revolvers over to the apex competition firing pin for consistency , and I read somewhere that the apex is less prone to breaking over the c&s. A wise man said to never dry fire an extended pin on an empty chamber, ever. He broke one at a pretty important match. Another wise told me to throw the C&S pin in garbage every 10k clicks/bangs. Personally I would do the same with an apex, just because. Firing pins are cheap, a broken pin in a match is the end of a match. A S&W factory guy told me to throw the cyl stop and spring in garbage every 6k. I asked if I could get them in value packs... These guys are smarter than me. My cyl stop will go more than 6k before getting swapped, but firing pins won't go much past 10k before getting tossed... Hm, I havent heard that comment on the cylinder stops and springs before... does that go strictly for MIM stops or all ? Presumably we are talking MIM, I didn't ask. My experience is the cyl stop spring goes south first, my experience is highly limited though. The context was a call right after my 627 went off out of time this spring, it went right past the stop and the hammer fell on the extreme edge of the primer and it went off. No damage, bayou bullets at 125 pf....it probably would not have been as good if 357 mag jacketed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Halley Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 The XP worked best for me in my heavily "Fauxmonized" revolvers. I found the competition pin tended to try harder to penetrate than crush the primer cup with the high velocity low mass approach. Competition likely works best with a heavy hammer set light on the strain screw. Much like the Apex hammers. C&S is junk. Skip that step. It will break at a most inopportune time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig-2008 Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 I have broke a c&s, but never a Apex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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