dskinsler83 Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Just pay the extra money for the trigger job at same time it goes to CRums so you dont have to do anything but pop the two reciever pins and roll. Also I'd go with the cut for two reasons. The cut reduces the weight if the lifter just ever slightly to of set the ever so slight increase in weight from added on metal to weld up + if you have a mis feed you can use a small tool to help push the round back into the mag tube so you can clear the fire arm. Just my .2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 It's really easy. Remove the 2 pins that hold the trigger assembly in. Take a minute too look at how the lifter is installed, snap a pic if needed. Be careful there is a spring the will have some tension on it. Carefully Removve the pin that holds the lifter in place. Pretty simple. *** figured it wasn't all that tough but wanted to ask. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Just pay the extra money for the trigger job at same time it goes to CRums so you dont have to do anything but pop the two reciever pins and roll. Also I'd go with the cut for two reasons. The cut reduces the weight if the lifter just ever slightly to of set the ever so slight increase in weight from added on metal to weld up + if you have a mis feed you can use a small tool to help push the round back into the mag tube so you can clear the fire arm. Just my .2 *** my thought was nothing to grab your thumb, but didn't think of that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) Just pay the extra money for the trigger job at same time it goes to CRums so you dont have to do anything but pop the two reciever pins and roll. Also I'd go with the cut for two reasons. The cut reduces the weight if the lifter just ever slightly to of set the ever so slight increase in weight from added on metal to weld up + if you have a mis feed you can use a small tool to help push the round back into the mag tube so you can clear the fire arm. Just my .2 *** my thought was nothing to grab your thumb, but didn't think of that... Lol you got the cuts wrong. They remove the end thumb trap by adding metal and making it solid. The cut is basically a slit cut through the bottom the end stays solid and the cut I refer to would not allow a digit to pass through Edited February 18, 2013 by dskinsler83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 Ok - off to c-rums! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 Just pay the extra money for the trigger job at same time it goes to CRums so you dont have to do anything but pop the two reciever pins and roll. Also I'd go with the cut for two reasons. The cut reduces the weight if the lifter just ever slightly to of set the ever so slight increase in weight from added on metal to weld up + if you have a mis feed you can use a small tool to help push the round back into the mag tube so you can clear the fire arm. Just my .2 *** my thought was nothing to grab your thumb, but didn't think of that... Lol you got the cuts wrong. They remove the end thumb trap by adding metal and making it solid. The cut is basically a slit cut through the bottom the end stays solid and the cut I refer to would not allow a digit to pass through *** went to c-rums...how do you order parts? Can't find my way . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Just pay the extra money for the trigger job at same time it goes to CRums so you dont have to do anything but pop the two reciever pins and roll. Also I'd go with the cut for two reasons. The cut reduces the weight if the lifter just ever slightly to of set the ever so slight increase in weight from added on metal to weld up + if you have a mis feed you can use a small tool to help push the round back into the mag tube so you can clear the fire arm. Just my .2 *** my thought was nothing to grab your thumb, but didn't think of that... Lol you got the cuts wrong. They remove the end thumb trap by adding metal and making it solid. The cut is basically a slit cut through the bottom the end stays solid and the cut I refer to would not allow a digit to pass through *** went to c-rums...how do you order parts? Can't find my way . . . I found the order sheet to print out and then sent an email to them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 "dskinsler83" - I sent them an email probably 10 days ago. No reply. Where can I find the order form? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukduk Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 http://www.c-rums.com/CRUMSForm.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 http://www.c-rums.com/CRUMSForm.pdf *** thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 My 930 JM PRO has had some work recently: Lifter welded... Forcing cone lengthened..... 3mm x 5" fiber optic front sight.... 2mm brass mid vent ball mounted on front receiver hole.... 8 shot 3gun works side saddle.... barrel clamp rail with sling QD.... Noveske flush fit sling QD on stock.... trigger polish job.... mag follower face painted neon orange..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanHorse Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 AncientShooter, what do mean by "forcing cone lengthened"? I have the JM 24-inch. Thanks, AmericanHorse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) The following graphic explains it better than I can, but it is the area immediately in front of the chamber where the load is compressed to the bore diameter. Generally, the longer this area, the tighter the pattern with fewer fliers. I know if you Google "lengthening the forcing cone", you'll get more detailed descriptions. My 'smith has done it a lot and my pattern tests showed a positive result on the 930. My O/U is being done now. http://www.google.co...Q9QEwBg&dur=778 I would add that much of what I have read suggests that a slower compression, (Longer forcing cone), results in less deformity to fewer pellets and truer flight with tighter patterns. Edited March 31, 2013 by AncientShooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanHorse Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Thank!!! Great information. AmericanHorse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 The really important thing is to be sure your gunsmith hones and then polishes the cone area after reaming. The smoother and shinier the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukduk Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 can u post a pic of the flush fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 can u post a pic of the flush fit? Be glad to......once I find my camera...(think the wife has it for a knitting project)...although this thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=112916 has a great shot on post # 5. (I followed that thread for my install!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maverickps Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 I picked up a JM 930 a month back. First trip to the range and the lifter grabbed my thumb bad. I asked my local gun smith about welding the lifter, he said he had never heard of it before, but "sounds simple enough" ... I think I'll pass and go the crums route. I picked up the 24" but am starting to think the 22" would have been better since everything seems to revolve around loading 8 at a time, 4x carriers, and whatnot. It feels like a beast though since I am used to just shooting a 5.8# O/U most of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 I picked up a JM 930 a month back. First trip to the range and the lifter grabbed my thumb bad. I asked my local gun smith about welding the lifter, he said he had never heard of it before, but "sounds simple enough" ... I think I'll pass and go the crums route. I picked up the 24" but am starting to think the 22" would have been better since everything seems to revolve around loading 8 at a time, 4x carriers, and whatnot. It feels like a beast though since I am used to just shooting a 5.8# O/U most of the time. The weld up IS a simple job - except that you have to take the receiver apart to get it out - (not a big deal). A good 'smith will re blue it after grinding it down and fitting. You shouldn't need to send the gun out, IMO. Can't really speak to the 24" vs. the 22", except the 22 points really quick compared to a 32" clays gun. I did read somewhere that Miculek likes the 24" better, but he is so good I could never appreciate what he does in a gun. I also find the gun very light, until I load it and the side saddle, but then the weight is mostly between my hands and seems OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaosshooter00 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 I recently picked up a JM from on the forum. Feeling that I paid too much for a shotgun for gaming, I decided to upgrade it myself. All of the upgrades you talk about are covered somewhere and sometime on this forum, so I just gathered as much info as I could and went to town. In about an hour, I opened the loading port, welded up the lifter and had it back together. Found out on it's first outing that the lifter was too long, but that's the only problem I've had and it took just a minute to fix. MarkCo's postings were a huge help and I followed some Benelli forums and looked at a lot of pictures. Not pretty, but not Frankenstein either. If you have the time and ambition, do it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 "chaosshooter00" - couldn't agree more. I'm waiting for parts as I write. I like to gripe but I'm sure w/ these new parts it'll be running in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 "chaosshooter00" - couldn't agree more. I'm waiting for parts as I write. I like to gripe but I'm sure w/ these new parts it'll be running in no time. AMAZING to me one of these aftermarket gun accessory businesses hasn't come up with an aftermarket pre-welded lifter for the 930....seems like a cheap upgrade item someone could make some money with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukduk Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 if you're deciding whether or not to get that center slot cut in your lifter, i'd just like to mention it that if you get a shell eject out of the tube when your lifter is in the normal position, you can pull your bolt handle and use it to push the shell back into the mag tube. pretty handy, hasn't happened in a match but just shooting at the range. its hard to describe the condition but u can replicate it by pressing your bolt release button with shells in the tube. *i might edit this when i get home later to put better detail in my writing* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flack jacket Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Good tips! I have a bone stock one. I'll send out my lifter out for welding too. Question. a buddy has advised me to mod the JM to allow "ghost loading" Benelli guys know what I'm talking about. Know of such mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted April 6, 2013 Author Share Posted April 6, 2013 "chaosshooter00" - couldn't agree more. I'm waiting for parts as I write. I like to gripe but I'm sure w/ these new parts it'll be running in no time. AMAZING to me one of these aftermarket gun accessory businesses hasn't come up with an aftermarket pre-welded lifter for the 930....seems like a cheap upgrade item someone could make some money with! *** you find one let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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