gr7070 Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 So, do they? How much can they be cut down and not require a loading block? Is that distance fr enough to be effective, or is it a waste of time to only go this far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Yes they really need a loading block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr7070 Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Thanks! The last couple matches I've had a few reloads where I've lost a round. It *seems* like I'm pulling one round out of the cylinder with the speedloader. No clue if that's truly what's happening, but I'm guessing the Bubberized would help that or fix it altogether. What are my options for loading blocks? I shoot IDPA mostly so I'd only need a 4x 6-rounds in 38 Spl. block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cd662 Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Are you letting the speedloader drop after it releases the rounds? Sometimes it "feels" fast to pull the speedloader away and toss it but it's slower and then you risk that issue with a round coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Yes, you need a block. The rounds aren't stable enough without it. I use the Safariland loading block/tray (http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/speedloader-loading-blocks/safariland-speedloader-loading-blocks-prod12499.aspx). I set it up on an "It's a Box" from Dillon http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24578/catid/26/Itsabox_. The top of the box has a hinged cover with storage space. I took the handle off the tray and attached it to the cover with four self tapping screws. Works great - when I get to my first stage I start filling up the positions (14) so all I have to do after I shoot is stick the empty speedloader over one of the positions, push it down over the cases, twist and lock and I'm done. I carry my ammo and gear in the box and it has a tray that I put my speedloaders and holders in. If I only put 200-300 rounds in the box I even have room for my gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 IMO, it depends on how far you've cut down your speedloaders and how steady your hands are. I cut about half the body of my JetLoaders away, and I easily load them without a loading block. They work great as they are, and I haven't felt the need to Bubberize them further. After you cut them down, though, make sure you trim away every little burr. You can test this by seeing if any dummy rounds hang up during the reload. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr7070 Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Are you letting the speedloader drop after it releases the rounds? Sometimes it "feels" fast to pull the speedloader away and toss it but it's slower and then you risk that issue with a round coming out. I now suspect this may be the problem! I haven't analyzed my reload, but this may be a greater likelihood now that it's been brought up. Thanks! I'm probably at the point where I'm a decent enough shooter that I need to start looking at all the little details to improve significantly. Oh, and then need to practice to put those changes into use! ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelShooten Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 I now suspect this may be the problem! I haven't analyzed my reload, but this may be a greater likelihood now that it's been brought up. Thanks! I'm probably at the point where I'm a decent enough shooter that I need to start looking at all the little details to improve significantly. Oh, and then need to practice to put those changes into use! ;-) Don't pull the speedloader back from the cylinder after it triggers to release. Either let go of it or 'wipe' your fingers down to the cylinder and let it fall away as the cartridges drop into the chambers. We have a local shooter who cant break the habit of lifting the loader during the reload and he has trouble with drawing one round out of the cylinder or not getting them all the way in before trying to close the cylinder. He understands that its a process that doesn't improve by being rushed but after beep...... You have to cut the skirts down to almost nothing before they can't be loaded w/o a block. Hold the loader vertically in your right hand and six rounds in your left hand, all nose up. Guide cartridge bases into each seat location and grasp them in a cluster with your thumb and middle finger. As you push the center post up through the cartridges, they will straighten out. If you keep the bases in their seats, twist to lock them in when the center post won't go any higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 It's a whole lot easier to just use a block or loading tray, anything that holds the rounds so all you have to do is push the speedloader down over the heads and lock them in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldfrank Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 COF, If I am seeing this right in my head, you can't open the box to get inside without dumping your ammo? Or am I thinking about it wrong. I cut my jet loaders halfway and I can load them by hand but it is so much quicker and easier to use a block. I use a cheap pistol case with the loading blocks attached inside. With three Jet loaders and the box I have 138 rounds that will get me through most local matches. Major match, I refill at lunch break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 It depends on how enthusiastic you are about opening the box Looks like what you've got would work too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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