bobby hated Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 stupid question i think i know the answer to but just making sure. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razerok1 Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 the only difference in the frames is going to be the ejector. but you can just swap that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven420 Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 the only difference in the frames is going to be the ejector. but you can just swap that out. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimo-Hombre Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Yep. Frame is same for 17-22-34-35 etc. just dump in housing with ejector for 9 vs 40. You can not interchange gen 3 gen 4 stuff though (except for the mags, they are the same only with exception of left hand release cutout on 4's) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobby hated Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 so with the 9 frame it wont eject the brass properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splashdown Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Frame itself is the same. The ejectors are caliber specific. It might work if you don't exchange the ejector housing, but not going to be ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taildraggerdave Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 You may get some failures to feed with the 9 ejector. Maybe, maybe not. Lock the slide back and insert a partially loaded mag. The top round will sit slightly crooked because it is getting moved by the ejector. Put a 40 ejector in its place and the top cartridge will sit straight. I've used a 9 ejector for a while but went back to the 40. Take care, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 so with the 9 frame it wont eject the brass properly? And I'd be a little concerned because you've got the ejector closer to the primer than you need to, when unloading/showing clear..... Changing the trigger housing to get the correct ejector in there takes 2 minutes, once you do it a few times.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimo-Hombre Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 so with the 9 frame it wont eject the brass properly? And I'd be a little concerned because you've got the ejector closer to the primer than you need to, when unloading/showing clear..... Changing the trigger housing to get the correct ejector in there takes 2 minutes, once you do it a few times.... This is a very good point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taildraggerdave Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 so with the 9 frame it wont eject the brass properly? And I'd be a little concerned because you've got the ejector closer to the primer than you need to, when unloading/showing clear..... Changing the trigger housing to get the correct ejector in there takes 2 minutes, once you do it a few times.... This is a very good point! The quickest and easiest way to change the ejector is to remove the rearmost pin in the frame. The one that hold the trigger housing in. Just lift up on the trigger housing a half inch or so and push the ejector right out of the front of the housing using a 1/16" punch. It pushes out from back to front. Then simply push the new ejector back in the housing, lower the housing back in the frame, and reinsert the pin. Done. Otherwise, you have to disassemble the most of the receiver to get the trigger housing out. Take care, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njl Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 This poll needs a "maybe". With modern G34/G35 frames made since about late 2001, the frames are the same. Older ones (including some Gen3, and all earlier) the G35 has a "third pin" through the locking block, while the G34 does not. Glock added that to strengthen the locking block...so while you can put a G35 slide on 2-pin G34 frame, shooting it is not recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrVvrroomm Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 The quickest and easiest way to change the ejector is to remove the rearmost pin in the frame. The one that hold the trigger housing in.Just lift up on the trigger housing a half inch or so and push the ejector right out of the front of the housing using a 1/16" punch. It pushes out from back to front. Then simply push the new ejector back in the housing, lower the housing back in the frame, and reinsert the pin. Done. Otherwise, you have to disassemble the most of the receiver to get the trigger housing out. Yeah, disassembling the frame takes a whole 15 seconds. Just remove the whole trigger housing assembly and swap out ejectors. Do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taildraggerdave Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 The quickest and easiest way to change the ejector is to remove the rearmost pin in the frame. The one that hold the trigger housing in.Just lift up on the trigger housing a half inch or so and push the ejector right out of the front of the housing using a 1/16" punch. It pushes out from back to front. Then simply push the new ejector back in the housing, lower the housing back in the frame, and reinsert the pin. Done. Otherwise, you have to disassemble the most of the receiver to get the trigger housing out. Yeah, disassembling the frame takes a whole 15 seconds. Just remove the whole trigger housing assembly and swap out ejectors. Do it right. By right, you mean your way.... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig N Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 so with the 9 frame it wont eject the brass properly? And I'd be a little concerned because you've got the ejector closer to the primer than you need to, when unloading/showing clear..... Changing the trigger housing to get the correct ejector in there takes 2 minutes, once you do it a few times.... And the best $5 to $7 you ever spent if you get FTE like I did when I tested it to see if I "needed" to change it on a compact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 so with the 9 frame it wont eject the brass properly? And I'd be a little concerned because you've got the ejector closer to the primer than you need to, when unloading/showing clear..... Changing the trigger housing to get the correct ejector in there takes 2 minutes, once you do it a few times.... This is a very good point! The quickest and easiest way to change the ejector is to remove the rearmost pin in the frame. The one that hold the trigger housing in. Just lift up on the trigger housing a half inch or so and push the ejector right out of the front of the housing using a 1/16" punch. It pushes out from back to front. Then simply push the new ejector back in the housing, lower the housing back in the frame, and reinsert the pin. Done. Otherwise, you have to disassemble the most of the receiver to get the trigger housing out. Take care, Dave That's one way to do it, but I'd rather keep complete trigger housings in stock, than ejectors..... Actually my real preference is for complete, assembled triggers...... Takes about 2 minutes to do...... Less than 60 seconds if you're in practice..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taildraggerdave Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I got my method over on GT. Lots of guys are running the Gen 4 ejectors and the trigger housings they come with are not compatible with Gen 3 frames so the ejector has to come out of the housing anyway... But I agree, I try to store them as complete units. Take care, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Oh, one other thing to mention: When building any FrankenGlock test carefully. While the design is pretty much capable of allowing one to mix and match parts, occasionally the tolerances all stack in the same direction, and interesting things can occur, like a gun not running or running very efficiently, i.e. doubling and tripling at random..... Be careful -- load the gun with one round a few times, fire, reload; then two rounds, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keepkool Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 ejector and generation maybe your only issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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