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Why a two-stage trigger?


DonovanM

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It depends on the trigger wether the first stage is heavier than the second stage.

+1 and your spring setup. I have an ssa-e trigger group with a standard ssa trigger spring. So i have the slightly heavier first stage with the nice light crisp 2nd stage. Perfect for the role of said rifle.

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It depends on the trigger wether the first stage is heavier than the second stage.

+1 and your spring setup. I have an ssa-e trigger group with a standard ssa trigger spring. So i have the slightly heavier first stage with the nice light crisp 2nd stage. Perfect for the role of said rifle.

Ummm, yea you guys are going to have to elaborate on that for me. I have NEVER felt a two stage trigger in which the 2nd stage is lighter than the first.

That by definition (or function) would not be a 2 stage trigger. There would be no way to "feel" the second stage, or know when the hammer would fall.

If the first stage required more force than the second, you would pull right through the second stage without knowing it. It would edfectively be a a long creep smooth single stage.

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Well here is an example of a two stage that has a heavier 1st stage and a lighter 2nd stage.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/944282/geissele-designated-marksman-rifle-adjustable-trigger-ar-15-large-pin-170-two-stage-matte

I'm not sure you have a clear understanding of how a two stage trigger works.

When it says second stage weight .5-1.5lb, that is .5-1.5 pounds IN ADDITION TO the 1.3-3.5lb first stage weight that you are already holding with your finger. The PERCIEVED weight of the second stage may be .5-1.5lbs, since that is the amount of force you have to add to overcome the 2nd stage.... but in reality it took 1.8-5lbs of force to break the second stage.

This is some good reading on Geissele 2 stages.

& I wouldnt believe everything you read in Midway descriptions....

http://geissele.com/pdfs/dmr-flyer.pdf

Edited by Ssanders224
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I have two stage triggers. It goes without saying that the 2nd stage includes the weight of the first stage.

Exactly.

So how can it "depend on the trigger wether the first stage is heavier than the second"?

Second stage will always be "heavier".

Edited by Ssanders224
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We are talking about the added force required.

One of the reasons that they have two stage triggers is to make it seem that the trigger is lighter than it is.

If you have a single stage trigger of 4 lbs, when you press that trigger you need 4 lbs for it to break.

If you have a two stage trigger you can have that same 4 lb trigger. But you can make it seem like you have a .5 lb trigger by making the first stage 3.5 lbs and then the 2nd stage .5 lb.

This is why two stage triggers are prevalent in NRA High Power where you have a 4.5 lb requirement. You can either have that 4.5 lb in one press or you can divide it into two stages.

Some triggers you can set the 2nd stage heavier than the first stage (Jewell, some Geissele triggers, etc.). Some triggers you can set the 2nd stage to be lighter than the first stage (the Geissele linked above).

Again, we are talking about the added poundage... not the total poundage.

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Makes sense. I am probably in the minority, but for a banging around rifle, I like a long, light, first stage and a short, crisp heavier second stage. Like a tuned old military 2 stage trigger. There is a gunsmith in Salem Oregon that my dad has had do all my rifles. I wish I knew his name, but he can really make the most out of a rifles trigger. I think I will find out and post it here.

For my varmit/coyote gun he tuned the trigger at around 2lbs with NO first stage whatsoever. The trigger just breaks. It feels much lighter than 2lbs, but that is what it reads on a trigger scale. It is right there at 2lbs and there is no creep. I really like that in a bolt gun. The opposite of an auto-loading rifle set up for the most part.

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For Hunting and 'Practical' rifle, my personal guns have a good single stage trigger.

For long distance precision rifle, I prefer a 2 stage. I generally calm my breathing as I run through stage one... then when my finger stops at the second stage (where it is so so light, but you can feel that slight stop) I tighten what needs to be, relax what should be, give that final exhale, and get suprised when the shot breaks.

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There used to be what was called a 'set' trigger for target competition that I believe actually had a lighter second stage. The way I understand that it worked was that the shooter would get on target and pull the trigger then let off after it 'set' then the next pull, which would trip the sear, was extremely light. That is the only trigger I've ever heard of that actually had a lighter second 'stage'.

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There used to be what was called a 'set' trigger for target competition that I believe actually had a lighter second stage. The way I understand that it worked was that the shooter would get on target and pull the trigger then let off after it 'set' then the next pull, which would trip the sear, was extremely light. That is the only trigger I've ever heard of that actually had a lighter second 'stage'.

Set triggers are very different. I used to have an AR with a set trigger. It was done by WIlliams Trigger Specialties. IT was a standard 4 pound trigger unless you pushed the safety just past fire and it moved the sear engagement every so slightly to when you pulled the trigger you got a 1.5 pound pull. That is how set triggers work they move the sear engagement till the point you do have a hair trigger. But you must set them for every shot.

Pat

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