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Should I drop the coin?


Ian30000

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Alright I'm currently using a stag arms 3hl upper with the plus package on a home built lower. I am currently looking at sending the upper off to ADCO to get the following parts installed.

AR-15 Miculek Comp

Troy Industries Low Profile Gas Block

LCH5 Rifle Length , cooling slots, 2" front sight rail

Total cost 408 minus the shipping to ADCO.

I do not have the tools or the space to do the work myself. Does this sound like a good idea for a super light build? Or should I just sell this and buy a whole new upper? Really just looking for alternatives and second opinions.

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Hadguard runs about $260

Comp about $40

Gas block $35

parts about $335 That brings labor in around $65

AP Custom makes a vented carbon fiber handguard for about $130 less.

You might find someone who could help you out with the work. If you were around here I'd be happy to put it together for you for say, a six of Guinness :cheers:

Tar

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Well in reality I am looking for a longer hanguard and the current gas block is to low for most Front sights so I figured why not kill two birds with one stone?

Because the handguard may shift slightly under pressure taking the sight with it. That is the purpose of a floating handguard, to ensure the barrel stays undisturbed by pressure on the handguard. Close fire a slight shift is not a problem, but for any distance shooting this is not a desirable situation. To assure accuracy the front sight must be attached to the barrel.

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The matches In my local area have only 200 yard max ranges. This is going to be just for short range anyway. Will it have that dramatic of an effect within 100-200? I already planned on picking up the stag 3g next year this was just for now and as a project.

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The edit feature isn’t working so excuse the double post.

I guess it depends on the use of the firearm. If you are building it for room to room, or these are to be back up sights, on the handguard won’t be a problem; if however you would like to shoot some distance, iron sights for 3gun perhaps, the sight is best mounted as far forward as you can get it, i.e., just behind the comp.

The Syrac gas block is very nice but more expensive, and the long AP handguard is 15”, but you would also need a front sight.

I don’t know what you intend with the rifle, or even how long the barrel is, so I’m just making suggestions, etc. Also, I’m not up on iron sights being almost exclusivly an optic shooter, so perhaps someone else can offer more concrete suggestions than I can.

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This is not intended to be a precision rifle. Strictly close in small matches not really planning to stretch it past 100 maybe 150 max. Like I said planing on picking up another for longer range matches. It has a 16 in m4 contour barrel. I will keep looking at other options I don't have a useful range right now so I'm in no rush.

Edited by Ian30000
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As said, I"m not an iron sight shooter and not well experienced with different iron sights on an ar to offer much more info, however, for myself, I wouldn't want to depend on a handguard mounted sight at 200yds. Sight radius is a big deal and is a large contrubuter to accuracy at distance, and stability of the sights is vital. I would consider 200yds distance. I've shot 100yds with no front sight and was able to keep it on the paper, but 200yds is starting to get out there.

I'm sure someone else can offer much more here than I can. Perhaps Pat Kelly will be along in a bit, he is a very good shooter and very experienced with iron sights.

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Actually my biggest problem right now is the hand guard not recoil. I am a lanky individual and have burned my self before on the gas block when re-positioning during a stage mainly when standing up from prone. I would like to have a longer handgaurd the comp install was because I figured since I was already sending it to them why not.

Edited by Ian30000
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Guess my vision of this problem is limited by my current thinking. I'm not working in my field right now and funds are quite limited, so all I seem to be able to see is the low budget solution.

For me, I'd put on an AP handguard, the low profile gas block, and a separate front sight. Then I'd put it together myself. For you, perhaps look for someone in the local area to help put it together. That would save some $$$, the work is easy to do and you'll probably make a new friend or 2. . Shipping and installation is going to run I'm guessing, $140 + When you throw in shipping you're getting up toward $500, and that is a good part of a new upper or new rifle, and all that coin goes mostly for a longer handguard. Looking around the net I'm seeing whole Stag 3g uppers for $699

I just noticed, you left out the cost of the new front sight in the origional estimate. Not sure if this means you have one already, or something.

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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I did look into my local area. The only gunsmith I can find is an ass and I refuse to give him my business. I will ask around at the next uspsa match to see if someone knows of anybody else. I after thinking about it I think I'm going to drop the Iron sight idea, go with th ap customs and use the extra money on a red dot.

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I'm betting you can find someone at a match who like me, would willing to put on a handguard and gas block for you. AR is a pretty simple platform all in all, and the tools needed aren't big bucks compared to say, working on a race car. I think I'd trust a fellow 3g'er more than I would the average gunsmith anyway.

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Can't help you with Red Dots. While they are very effective, I always prefered an optic. Think a new thread would be more effective at figuring that out. This board is an amazing sorce of information and I'm sure you can find someone who knows the answer.

Best to ya'

Tar

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Try not to "cheap out" too much on the optics (red dot or otherwise) as a good quality optic can move from gun to gun.

A cheap POS will break, lose zero or fail at the most inopportune time and you'll buy UP for the next one.

As far as Irons go figure $200 for a DPMS clamp on rear and a JP clamp on front. Don't waste your coin on "flip-ups".

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I have a T1 on one of my ARs and an M4 on another. The PRO is a quality optic. The biggest difference comes in size and battery life. The PRO uses an less efficient circuitry setup and kills the battery quicker than the H1. The H1 dies quicker than the M4. If battery run time isn't a major issue the PRO should be just fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE: Talked to a couple of guys near me they either recommended the local shop or ADCO. So I just got it back from adco they do great work, total turn around time from them receiving it was 3 days! During thanksgiving too! Any way looks great and I will be posting a range update as soon as I can get out. Also got a great deal on a burris TAC 30 so that will be riding on it for now.

http://imgur.com/a/rWRjN

Pics minus the optics

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The PRO only lasts 30,000 hours when left on. Hardly what I call inefficient.

;-)

Mick

I have a T1 on one of my ARs and an M4 on another. The PRO is a quality optic. The biggest difference comes in size and battery life. The PRO uses an less efficient circuitry setup and kills the battery quicker than the H1. The H1 dies quicker than the M4. If battery run time isn't a major issue the PRO should be just fine.

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