RL1050 caliber change (Lg to Sm primer)

[zhunter]

I am going to start loading some .223 on my 1050 which is currently set-up for .45, so...

I want to do it the easy way (without buying another 1050 ) I already have an extra powder container (sorry, forgot the correct name), but need everything else. I'd be happy to just get a whole new toolhead. Can I just unscrew the "large" w/.45 and install the "small" with .223 dies?

I apologize, but I am pretty ignorant about my 1050, I just know how to feed it

Thanks

[GR8GIFT]

I use 650's and a 550. However you are going from large primers to small primers and will need to get the components for the small primer system in order to load .223 on your 1050. I have no idea how much work is involved in switching primer systems on the 1050. I know I have 2 650's one large primer and one small primer to avoid the change over of the priming system.

[yoshidaex]

You'll need a small primer swage rod among other things.

[Retread1911]

Great news. There's a conversion unit that brian sells that will help you get there with all the parts.

Bad news is you are looking at around 500$ if you want a new tool head with the primer conversion unit. Since the RL model is older I would recommend calling him to get all the parts correct.

Cheers

Retread

[warpspeed]

I am going to start loading some .223 on my 1050 which is currently set-up for .45, so...

I want to do it the easy way (without buying another 1050 ) I already have an extra powder container (sorry, forgot the correct name), but need everything else. I'd be happy to just get a whole new toolhead. Can I just unscrew the "large" w/.45 and install the "small" with .223 dies?

I apologize, but I am pretty ignorant about my 1050, I just know how to feed it

Thanks

Yes. You will need to take it off to change out the shell plate anyway so you might as well get a whole new tool head for 223. I have never changed the primer assembly from sm to lg but I don't think it is that big of a deal.

You will need a new tool head, the 223 conversion kit and a small primer system. The primer system package has the new swage rod in it.

[pjb45]

I own a 1050. I change calibers all the time.

I have several extra tool heads which are nice but not mandatory.

You will need to change for small primers, shell plate, you might need to change out the brass feeder parts also.

Honestly, this last time, I change changed out my dies on my tool head rather than a new tool head. I did this because I ended up having to make minor adjustments with the dies regardless. So it was easy just to set the up like they were new.

Now for the bad news! If you brass is not swaged, trimmed and sized, then you will need to do that first.

I use a Super Swage. If you don't separate your brass, the 1050 swage might not work as well. Military brass is a pain. You have to clean the primer pockets and hole very well.

I use a Dillon Brass trimmer. I size and trim with a separate tool head.

I will no longer process my own brass. It is a PIA. I will buy it from Brassman. You can search the forum for which brass is worth reloading and which you should just throw away.

Ping me if you have more questions.

I was talking with the former VV rep at RM3G a few weeks ago, he said bottleneck brass is significantly more complex than straight wall pistol brass. You should invest in a case gauge! It sucks to be at a match with brass that won't feed.

There are a lot of good threads on reloading .223 on this forum. Read them before you really want to invest the money. It is not a simple task to reload .223.

[zhunter]

Great info

When I was shooting precision rifle (a lifetime ago it seems) I was very anal about my brass. Trimmed for length, and for neck wall thickness I am happy to trim for length before the loading process, I prefer to buy it trimmed tho as I am lazy in my old age

I agree, a case gauge is a must