andrewst359 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 i reload for 308WIN. i use the redding deluxe die set with the competition shellholders. i measure the shoulder of the brass using a rcbs case mic. the brass is trimmed to 2.005" and the once/twice fired brass measures 1.631-1.632" at the shoulder. i use 42gr of varget powder. so to maximize case life...... should i neck size till the cases dont chamber, then FL size to bump the shoulder back 0.001-0.002"? will i honestly gain anything doing this? im planning on buying a 650xl and would enjoy reloading 308 on the new press and keep the single stage for back up. i only reload 40-50 rounds of rifle when i go target shooting. ive thought of buying the 550B because i dont shoot alot as of now but like the full auto index of the 650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UW Mitch Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 (edited) I see you already posted in this relevant thread. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152350&pid=1707597&st=0entry1707597 FWIW, I full length size and trim the first time because I get brass that was not shot in my bolt-gun, then neck size after that. I haven't gotten to the point where I've got 4x and need to re-full length size, but that's my plan. I was going to trim with each reload but the guys at Dillon when I talked to them said it's probably not necessary until the next time I FL size. ~Mitch Edited May 18, 2012 by UW Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewst359 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 So would you neck size in the 650 and change dies when you need to fl size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UW Mitch Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 (edited) For 308 right now I've been single staging - but that's taking forever. So I think I'm going to neck size and prime on the 650, then powder and seat on the single stage, since I have an electronic powder measure to measure each charge. Yes, when I get to doing FL size again, I'll switch the die out. I'm not a high volume shooter with my bolt gun, so it'll be a while before my 500 pieces of brass get to 4x shot. ~Mitch Edited May 18, 2012 by UW Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoMiE Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Quick answer, I neck size only if I'm reloading for the rifle its been shot out of. I FL if I am going to shot from others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too_Slow Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I will go along with Homie on this one. Both myself and a friend have 300 WBY's and if it just shot out of my gun I can just neck size but if it is shot out of my friends gun I have to FL size due to differences in the chamber dimensions between the two guns. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewst359 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 So once my brass is fired formed, I don't need to FL size? Doesn't your brass ever stretch too much so it won't chamber? Im a newb to reloading rifle and so far all that's changed has been my case length and the shoulder hasn't moved much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too_Slow Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Most of the change in length is from the main body of the brass when you size it. If you just neck size the length doesn't change by any large amount. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewst359 Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 So will I ever have to FL size or will neck sizing alone get me by? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoMiE Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) Neck size and just watch the length after you size, they usually don't go past max length till after 4-5 firing then you may need to bump shoulder if they don't extract smooth or get too long and have to trim. Edited May 19, 2012 by HoMiE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewst359 Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Thanks for the info. Im kinda leaning towards the 550 but like the auto advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoMiE Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Get a 650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewst359 Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 Looked at the 650 at Scheels-WDSM today.. one word...SMOOTH!!! I don't think id be happy with the 550. Thinking of using the lee case feeder, the only thing I like about my loadmaster. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
427Cobra Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 I FL every time, and shoot little bitty groups at distance, the key is not to set up the FL die per the instructions that comes with it, get a Hornady Headspace Gauge, decap your fired brass and measure with the HSG, use the readings to adjust your FL die so the shoulder is bumped .001-.0015, now you will have uniform brass that will chamber every single time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKIE40X40 Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I neck size with the redding com dies, and only size about half the neck, if I feel any chambering Resistance I use the redding body sizer die. I use lapua brass, I have never lost a case to cracks,The tighter the brass fits your chamber The longer it last. And has tighter groups. It just what's work's for me. And I have used the Dillion and hornady ap with this methods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 I'm assuming you are shooting a bolt gun since you asked about neck-sizing. It doesn't work well at all for most autoloaders, although some guys get away with it somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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