peterg Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 was mentioned in first post Steve, 3 BH-1610 Roller Bearings Dillon part nr #11008 see Super 1050 Lower Machine Assembly drawing on Dillonprecision.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Taliani Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 I think he was asking for the specs of the replacement bearings Mythos used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideysteve Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Doh! I was asking both but realize now it was poorly worded. Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterg Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 I think he was asking for the specs of the replacement bearings Mythos used. ok, didn't get that, but that's what I would like to know too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Taliani Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Same here. I sent Mythos a pm right after he posted, but I haven't heard back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterg Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 pm'd him too, no reply thus far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideysteve Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Any word from Mythos on the specs he used? I would like to get some machined ... I guess since a guy I shoot with is the operations manager for a local machine shop, I could always take them out and have him make new ones, slightly tighter ... but how much tighter?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROBIKE101 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 my clunk was in the swedging support station top die to low for 9mm shell i am useing also adjusted bottom swedger comming up to much also found my decapping and sizing die was touching shell plate,gave it a hair of clearencewhile a shell was in swedging station,if the sweadger comes up to high in the primer pocket it pushes the shell plate up,causing decapping die to touch the shell plate.in MHO....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROBIKE101 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Pritty smooth now added a hornady bullet feeder it is sweet,nice piece of equipment ,i am happy i spent the money,and i dont say that often..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterg Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 (edited) @probike the swager is not the problem, the play in the bearings is. Brian if you're reading this, can you step in please? Does Dillon know of this problem? Edited June 16, 2012 by peterg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROBIKE101 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 how old is the press? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterg Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 just a half year old and had not more than 7000 through it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Has anybody removed the left side parts and taken measurements? I had mine out last night for a cleaning and lubing and found that the bearing OD to press bore had .001" to .003" difference so that isn't too bad. The cover / sleeve part that the screw holds in is .999" OD and the bearing spec is 1.000". Again, pretty good BUT there's about .010" to .015" slop between the shaft and the ID of that sleeve! The right side appears to be as bad or even worse. Dillon, if you're reading this can you please post what the parts (cover/sleeve, shaft) should be? I'm willing to spend a few bucks on bearings but the amount of slop between the shaft and sleeve I don't think it would help. I think one of my other parts, most likely the shaft, slipped past QC isn't any good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideysteve Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Has anybody removed the left side parts and taken measurements? I had mine out last night for a cleaning and lubing and found that the bearing OD to press bore had .001" to .003" difference so that isn't too bad. The cover / sleeve part that the screw holds in is .999" OD and the bearing spec is 1.000". Again, pretty good BUT there's about .010" to .015" slop between the shaft and the ID of that sleeve! The right side appears to be as bad or even worse. Dillon, if you're reading this can you please post what the parts (cover/sleeve, shaft) should be? I'm willing to spend a few bucks on bearings but the amount of slop between the shaft and sleeve I don't think it would help. I think one of my other parts, most likely the shaft, slipped past QC isn't any good. Mine is similar, although I haven't taken measurements. I will next time I take it all apart. On mine, I can actually push the left side in and the entire assembly will push about .045" ... when I talked to Dillon, they suggested trying a spacer on the shaft (11061), so I got a 1" spacer from a buddy's motorcycle shop and put it in as a shim. It seemed to help for a while, but it has been getting looser lately (about 5k rounds since then). It is also making an unusual 1/2 moon shape wear mark from the left-right movement on part of the stroke on the right end of the shaft. No time now to take it apart and post pics, but will do so when I can. Also, has anyone with this similar problem noticed the left cap and screw rotating as you pull the handle? Not sure if it is normal or not ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattinvester Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 This pic shows where my thunking came from. The small screw on the plastic end cap pulls the dog into the notch to close the gap. But when pulled up tight my dog did not wedge tight in the notch. So when lifting the handle up the size die would clear the mouth then the spring would take up the slack making the tool head jump up, kicking the shell plate rotate bar, jerking the shell plate, and spilling powder. When the small screw on plastic end cover became loose the slack got worse, thunking more. My fix was to put small strip of coke can where the yellow paper is to take up the slake of the dog not being wide enough. And a small strip of coke can in the key way on the shaft also. You can see where the black is worn off the shaft from the extra movement of the slightly large keyway and the small dog on the end. Matt Hooper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideysteve Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Thanks for the pics Matt. Did that clear up the problems? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 "Small screw on the plastic end cap"? Do you have a RL1050? Or is that something on the right side I haven't found yet? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattinvester Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Yes it helped. Sorry it's metal not plastic. Matt Hooper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Ok, thanks Matt. On the cap end on mine the inner hole in the cap is about .015" bigger than the shaft. That's where the vast amount of slack in mine on that side seems to be. The handle side has a lot of movement / slop in it also but I haven't taken the shaft out to measure that side, mainly because I don't know how and can't be without my press in the middle of the match season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chainsaw Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 well, w/less that 1000rds on it my 1050 started a-thunkin too. i felt it in the handle on the up stroke and heard it. by process of elimination (much like what happens in the morning after my bran muffin and coffee), i determined it was coming from the case feeder slide. the shellplate was empty. w/only one case in the tube being fed into the shellplate there was no problem. but w/ a case (45acp)in the tube and one being fed, it started up again. so i remembered this topic and read about the end cap being loose etc so i tightened it up and damn! no more a-thunkin. keep the fixes a comin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterg Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Yes it helped. Sorry it's metal not plastic. Matt Hooper Thanks Matt, did the same trick with filling up the dog space with a piece of coke can, coke zero actually It helped indeed but it didn't take away all the thunking. I guess the thunking is now 50% less and I presume the rest is due to the play in the bearings. thanks Matt for the tip. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 I had the same weirdness in my RL 1050 a while back. I pulled the main bearing out clenaned it and packe it with dillon grease now all the thinking is gone. Might be overkill to pack the bearing with grease everytime this happens but I am willing to live with it for a while longer. At least until I buy another press. Once I have another 1050 up and running I will send this old RL in for a rebuild. Retread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nichvegas Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 I had the same weirdness in my RL 1050 a while back. I pulled the main bearing out clenaned it and packe it with dillon grease now all the thinking is gone. Might be overkill to pack the bearing with grease everytime this happens but I am willing to live with it for a while longer. At least until I buy another press. Once I have another 1050 up and running I will send this old RL in for a rebuild. Retread. My only issuses have been with a dirty primer feed slide and having the shell plate too tight. I use Tetra Gun grease under the shell plate and under the retainer nut. It really smoothed it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 I have been lubing the shell plate in that manner for a while. Either Slipp2000 or Remington grease. I too have had issues with the priming assembly but were solved with a strong bench and a acetone cleaning of the slide and primer components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chainsaw Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 myself, and i think some others, would like to see dillon and or enos chiming in on this bearing issue. if it means taking the machine apart and installing an oversize (correct size actually) bearing then so be it but we need the size or part # etc of the correct bearing. if its NOT a bearing problem, then whatever it is has a common theme and needs to be fixed. but the silence from said partys is deafening. damn, i shoulda been a drama writer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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