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Mr. Clean


brhalolll

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I remember sitting around for hours cleaning guns with my dad when I was young. It was the old "news paper and Hoppes #9." Seems like it took forever to do 2-3 guns this way. Once I got shooting and found myself spending more time cleaning guns I got serious about how to go about it.

My first breakthrough was with the SLIP2000 parts washer tub and their 725 water based solvent, that was in 2006. I am still in the same tub (replaced once), but i am now using a petroleum based solvent. I love this thing and the entire system. The only other significant component is a small air compressor to dry the parts.

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I've been using the same system as yours for about 15 years now. I got turned on to cleaning guns in a solvent sink when I attended an armorer's class put on by the DOE in Albuquerque back then and have been doing it ever since.

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Such a simple way.... I bet it is often overlooked. I've cleaned a bazillion parts in tanks and never thought about a small tank for guns and gun parts.

You switched to the petroleum based cleaner, what made you switch? Effectiveness?

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A shallow pan and a gallon of WD-40 also works well. Let the parts soak and then scrub with a brush. After you're done, pour the WD-40 back in the container and the solids will settle out before the next use.

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A shallow pan and a gallon of WD-40 also works well. Let the parts soak and then scrub with a brush. After you're done, pour the WD-40 back in the container and the solids will settle out before the next use.

I hate wd40 with a passion. It's at best a mediocre cleaner, and I hate the film it leaves on things. It gets sticky. A parts washer or parts washing solvent will blow wd40 away any day of the week.

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This is why i switched to petroleum based, pic. The first tank corroded on the inside after about 5-6 years. I got my new tank from Toolking, cost was $51 bucks. SLIP doesn't sell them anymore, I am wondering if it was because they didn't play well with their water based solvents.

I am using Graymills Agitene solvent from Graingers (2RE49). Works much faster and I don't have to be so careful when drying the parts since there is no water.

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I used a parts washer by Torin, and within 3 years the pump housing spread and seized up the motor. The instructions said not to use a pertoleum based solvent.

I picked up a Hornady Magnum Sonic cleaner and cleaning solution, and it takes 10 minutes to clean a Glock, no heat, and 13 minutes to clean a 1911 or revolver, after which a rinse in hot water and the parts blown dry.

You still have to use a stainless steel/brass toothbrush to remove the much loosened carbon, but I do that before reassembly, and blow the parts of dust.

The advantages are a smaller footprint and quicker cleaning time.

The disadvantage is the cost of the cleaner.

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Looks like a nice set up.

I hAve been using Ed' Red with good results for a long time. Flammable but effective and cheap. Hasn't harmed plastic guns yet but I don't let the plastic pars soak in it either. .

A 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and mineral spirits is almost. As effective. It doesn't dissolve the carbon but is very good penetrating solution. Sort of floats the crud out in a filthy suspension. Doesn't smell too bad either.

Brass or plastic toothbrushes as appropriate for scrubbing surfaces.

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