How to setup a FN SLP Mk1

[mngunguy]

Thanks for posting all the pictures.

It's tough to tell but it looks like some of the material removed from the receiver would have been part of the rim that keeps the magazine follower from popping out into the receiver.

If this is the case, did doing so cause any problems?

Also, did you have to remove the magazine tube in order to make the cuts to the front of the receiver?

You do end up removing part of the receiver that holds the follower in the tube but if you look at it like a clock only in the 10-2 area. The rest of the diameter still has the ridge to hold it back.

I removed part of the magazine tube as seen below with my very crappy cell phone pic. I'm not sure why you'd remove part of the receiver and not the tube. The idea is to expose part of the shell making it so you don't have to insert your thumb in to the port and tube to get it past the catch.

EDIT: Now I see you were asking if you need to remove the tube to do the receiver work not why you didn't remove material from the tube. I did not remove the tube for my work but I wanted the tube material removed as well.

Edited November 29, 2013 by mngunguy

[jborzo]

It took me awhile to find this reply, I didn't see that it started a new page. Whoops.

This is a great picture, the different colors help illustrate where material can be removed. I had to stop removing metal from the front of my receiver once I encountered the magazine tube as I was unsure how to proceed. I was concerned that removing too much in the wrong area may cause feeding problems. From this photo it looks like a have a long way to go still and can remove a portion of the magazine tube to make it a little easier on my thumb.

Thanks.

[JBOT5000]

Have C-rums cut off that stupid cantilever rail was worth it's weight in gold. You'd be surprised how heavy that thing is. I would also recommend C-rums trigger job worth every penny and actually makes the slp much closer to my JP single stage trigger. I recently had a match saver and it's awesome.

[AustinWolv]

Switching to the 24" vent rib barrel was even a better move. Originally had the 22" cantilever rail barrel and had cut the cantilever off. It still was heavier and didn't point as well as switching to the 24" vent rib barrel.

[JBOT5000]

I hear that is barrel is the way to go. I'm hoping I can feel one at the Vegas 3gun nation event this month and decide if I want to take the plunge. I wish the barrel was cheaper, I don't understand why a shotgun barrel costs so much when I can have white oak armament make a custom AR barrel for me for the same price or cheaper.

JF

[Shaky]

Switching to the 24" vent rib barrel was even a better move. Originally had the 22" cantilever rail barrel and had cut the cantilever off. It still was heavier and didn't point as well as switching to the 24" vent rib barrel.

Where can I get this barrel?

Thanks!

[AustinWolv]

Switching to the 24" vent rib barrel was even a better move. Originally had the 22" cantilever rail barrel and had cut the cantilever off. It still was heavier and didn't point as well as switching to the 24" vent rib barrel.

Where can I get this barrel?

Thanks!

I got mine from CRUMS as he had some extras at the time I was getting some other work done.

Otherwise, Brownells, Midway, call FN........

[Shaky]

Switching to the 24" vent rib barrel was even a better move. Originally had the 22" cantilever rail barrel and had cut the cantilever off. It still was heavier and didn't point as well as switching to the 24" vent rib barrel.

Where can I get this barrel?

Thanks!

I got mine from CRUMS as he had some extras at the time I was getting some other work done.

Otherwise, Brownells, Midway, call FN........

Thanks, Brother. I see we use alot of the same gear. I have been praciticing for a week with my IP 2.8s. Load two was pretty easy to learn... Load 4 has been tough. I would love to see how much your loading port was opened up. Did you do it yourself or did Jeff do it?

[AustinWolv]

Switching to the 24" vent rib barrel was even a better move. Originally had the 22" cantilever rail barrel and had cut the cantilever off. It still was heavier and didn't point as well as switching to the 24" vent rib barrel.

Where can I get this barrel?

Thanks!

I got mine from CRUMS as he had some extras at the time I was getting some other work done.

Otherwise, Brownells, Midway, call FN........

Thanks, Brother. I see we use alot of the same gear. I have been praciticing for a week with my IP 2.8s. Load two was pretty easy to learn... Load 4 has been tough. I would love to see how much your loading port was opened up. Did you do it yourself or did Jeff do it?

Long ago before I did Load2 or quadload, I sucked at conventional weakhand. Jeff had smoothed out the edges for me then, but I went back and have opened it up quite a bit myself. Check it out. Let me know if you need more details.

[Shaky]

Switching to the 24" vent rib barrel was even a better move. Originally had the 22" cantilever rail barrel and had cut the cantilever off. It still was heavier and didn't point as well as switching to the 24" vent rib barrel.

Where can I get this barrel?

Thanks!

I got mine from CRUMS as he had some extras at the time I was getting some other work done.

Otherwise, Brownells, Midway, call FN........

Thanks, Brother. I see we use alot of the same gear. I have been praciticing for a week with my IP 2.8s. Load two was pretty easy to learn... Load 4 has been tough. I would love to see how much your loading port was opened up. Did you do it yourself or did Jeff do it?

Long ago before I did Load2 or quadload, I sucked at conventional weakhand. Jeff had smoothed out the edges for me then, but I went back and have opened it up quite a bit myself. Check it out. Let me know if you need more details.

That was awesome and very helpful! If you are ever in the RGV, I will definitly buy you a beer for that!

[AustinWolv]

Thanks, glad it could help someone. After taking the plunge, modifying your own port is good stuff as you can tailor it as you need, although it may not look as pretty as a service doing it. {shrug}

I have some videos on quadload also, but the key things IMO are to get your grab consistent and take your time there and then ensure you trap the first two shells in the port with your palm/heel of your hand.....get your hand down on that receiver and slide it, don't just touch it gently as once you get going faster, you may not trap them down well enough and they'll stub somewhere or pop out because you didn't get your thumb vertical and past the shell catch.

Hope that helps!

[Shaky]

Thanks, glad it could help someone. After taking the plunge, modifying your own port is good stuff as you can tailor it as you need, although it may not look as pretty as a service doing it. {shrug}

I have some videos on quadload also, but the key things IMO are to get your grab consistent and take your time there and then ensure you trap the first two shells in the port with your palm/heel of your hand.....get your hand down on that receiver and slide it, don't just touch it gently as once you get going faster, you may not trap them down well enough and they'll stub somewhere or pop out because you didn't get your thumb vertical and past the shell catch.

Hope that helps!

I'm going to go to work on the loading port for the third time tonight then get to practicing. Are you running a 10 shell mag tube with that 24" vent rib?

[AustinWolv]

Twelve in the tube.

[TRUBL]

One weak point on the SLP....especially when running extensions that go past the barrel is the FNH factory magazine tube. Not sure if they've changed it yet.....but they have been a fairly thin walled aluminum tube. Some have broken where they thread into the receiver. A great replacement is the Winchester SX2 magazine tube. While only a 4 shot tube, it is a stainless steel tube and with that....very strong. Of course, you will need to do away with the FNH factory shroud and buy an extension tube to bring your shell capacity back up to something competitive.

You may never break one.....but if you ever do....you do have a stronger option available.

I did just hear about someone actually bedding the hand guard to the factory tube to help make things a little stiffer as well....but I really don't know the process involved.

[Shaky]

One weak point on the SLP....especially when running extensions that go past the barrel is the FNH factory magazine tube. Not sure if they've changed it yet.....but they have been a fairly thin walled aluminum tube. Some have broken where they thread into the receiver. A great replacement is the Winchester SX2 magazine tube. While only a 4 shot tube, it is a stainless steel tube and with that....very strong. Of course, you will need to do away with the FNH factory shroud and buy an extension tube to bring your shell capacity back up to something competitive.

You may never break one.....but if you ever do....you do have a stronger option available.

I did just hear about someone actually bedding the hand guard to the factory tube to help make things a little stiffer as well....but I really don't know the process involved.

That is good to know. I have been less than gentle with mine... I will be more careful.

[bushmeat]

Switching to the 24" vent rib barrel was even a better move. Originally had the 22" cantilever rail barrel and had cut the cantilever off. It still was heavier and didn't point as well as switching to the 24" vent rib barrel.

I agree with this. The cantilever rail was visual obstruction and p.i.a. The vent rib was much faster to use. Also, the backboring and Invector + chokes in the vent rib gave better patterns.

One weak point on the SLP....especially when running extensions that go past the barrel is the FNH factory magazine tube. Not sure if they've changed it yet.....but they have been a fairly thin walled aluminum tube. Some have broken where they thread into the receiver. A great replacement is the Winchester SX2 magazine tube. While only a 4 shot tube, it is a stainless steel tube and with that....very strong. Of course, you will need to do away with the FNH factory shroud and buy an extension tube to bring your shell capacity back up to something competitive.

You may never break one.....but if you ever do....you do have a stronger option available.

I did just hear about someone actually bedding the hand guard to the factory tube to help make things a little stiffer as well....but I really don't know the process involved.

I'll respectfully beg to differ here. Whether with the cantilever or vent rib barrels, SLPs have a well-deserved reputation for accuracy with slugs. That is mostly due to that one-piece 8-round magazine tube it comes with.

Other shotguns with two-piece tubes sometimes require barrel clamps to hold up to the abuse of dumping. Changing tension in the barrel clamps screws up p.o.i.

You can take an SLP apart for cleaning and after it's back together, it's shooting slugs to the same spot.

I wouldn't suggest going to a 4-round tube and then hanging a +5 or +6 on there. Just my two cents.

[Bullshifter1939]

For those still looking for a pistol grip stock for their FN SLP MK1 twelve ga. shotgun you can

buy one at cheaper than dirt------- it is FN produced and goes for around 140$