New reloader about to start loading for 30-06 rifle

[pmclaine]

I am new to reloading. I bought an S1050 to produce ammo for .45 ACP and 30-06. I have made enough .45 ACP to get me through the winter and I'm ready to convert over to 30-06 to make some test load rifle ammo for the summer.

I have two tool heads for my rifle reloading and intend to set one up for the Rapid Trim case prep and the other for loading. My goal is to produce USGI M2 spec ball ammo to run through an M1 Garand and a couple of Springfield 03's. The shooting I do is typically 100 yards but when time allows I do go to the 300 yard range. Unfortunately in MA 300 yards is about as good as it gets. So at these distances I am not looking for benchrest ammo. I am expecting any gains in accuracy from my reloads will be the result of using a better quality bullet than the flat base 150 grain Greek GI pill my surplus ammo currently has.

These are my rifles they have already been through a lot and I don't want to blow them up. I expect enemies of our country have already tried.

I'm looking for confirmation of what my reloading plan is and any helpful hints that may be out there that get lost in the all encompassing, highly detailed, comprehensive instruction pamphlets and video that Dillon puts out.

My case prep process

Station 1 - Feed lubed case

Station 2 - 30-06 universal decap die. Thoughts on using the regular size die here?

Station 3- Remove military crimp on surplus ammo

Station 4 - Empty

Station 5 - Empty

Station 6 - Rapid Trim set to size/trim case. Helpful info regarding setting the trimmer?

Station 7 - Empty

Station 8 - Empty. Finished case goes into bin for trip to tumbler to clean off lube/brass sworf.

My loading process

Station 1 - Feed clean unlubed case

Station 2 - Dillon 30-06 sizing die. Set die to avoid sizing. Run decap to eject media and expand case neck. Thoughts on swapping the Dillon size die with the Universal decap die?

Station 3 - I didnt intend to do anything here. But now that I think about it do I need to move the swaging backup rod over from the prep tool head? If the case is already swaged will the swage rod go smoothly into the primer pocket or does it need the backing rod to support the case and prevent tearing off the case rim?

Station 4 - Primer

Station 5 - Powder. I am checking loads with Varget, IMR 4064 and IMR 4895. All are stick powders. I am polishing the powder funnel and the drop tube as I have seen that these mods allow people to use these powders successfully with a Dillon measure. Any advice for using stick powder with the Dillon measure? Do I sell the Dillon measure and install an RCBS Uni Flow or such? I'll be shooting for a load of around 46.5 grains.

Station 6 - Powder check. Love this piece of equipment! Saved me from a stupid mistake last week.

Station 7 - Seat bullet. 168gn SMK, 168gn Amax and 168gn Hornady BTHP will be test bullets. Could probably go lighter but I only want to load one bullet that will cover everything from 25 to 800 yards.

Station 8 - Remove bell if I find I even need to bell. I'm finding that with .45 ACP I could probably get by with no bell, the swaging station expands the case enough to allow an easy seat (I do use a slight flare though that gets removed at the crimp station, I may remove this next time I do .45 to prevent working the mouth edge of the brass). The way I have it currently figured there would be no sizing thus no lube on the brass in the reloading stage. Will lack of lube be an issue regards neck expansion at Station 2 and projectile seating? I've read some information that lube in the neck on rifle brass is not a good thing regards consistency of neck tension.

Man this post looks like a lot of words. Thank you to those that have read through it and can offer any advice. Any info along any step of the process I am about to go through will be helpful to include what to look for when removing my .45 ACP tool head to maintenance I should perform while I'm partially disassembled (I expect no shell plate or primer work .45 to 30-06). I currently have 3,00 rounds of .45 ACP produced on the machine. I intend a major grease and clean at the 10,000 mark as per the manual. Thank you for your time.

Phil M

[Mike Morcillo]

Just got through loading the 30-06 for my Garand. I've been shooting HXP surplus, but wanted to see if handloads would be better. Did all the prep work, full length resize, reamed primer pocket, trim to length, etc. Loaded 48gr of 4064 under a Sierra 150gr HPBTMK at the recommended length. After getting the usual 2 inch groups at 100 yards, the reloads shot an amazing 3/4 inch three shot group. Haven't chronographed it yet, but it "Feels" a little easier than the surplus.

Don't rely on my data, start low and work up. Remember, only medium powders in Garand, like 4064 or 4895 or you'll break the op-rod.

[pmclaine]

Thank you for the encouraging reply.

Did you load single stage or on some sort of progressive?

3/4 is a great group for a Garand, actually the rifle only gets a little of the credit - good shooting sir!

[oddjob]

This is a 3 shot 200 yard group from my Garand. Loaded on a 550. I have witnesses too!

[pmclaine]

ANy issues using the Dillon 550 powder measure?

[oddjob]

The powder weights do seem to be off by +/- .1 to .3 grains or so with every throw. I'm using IMR48895. But to be honest I don't think it matters much in the Garand loads. I don't load the max either though. I use my Garand for 3 Gun (really fun by the way), and metallic silhouette, and maybe some local military rifle matches. I don't go for the really tiny groups....I load for volume. I have a friend who shoots high power and he weighs every single charge. I just don't have the patience to do that. If you want dead nuts measurements every single time then you might want to get a RCBS Chargemaster (or something close). Again.....I load for volume. I just bought a lb of Varget today to try for my Garand.

I called Dillon and they told me to remove one of the two springs on the dispenser that brings the powder bar back. I also polished the inside of powder bar. Seems to have helped. Call Dillon....They will help.

By the way....write down your loads and take your SECURE notes to the range. I wrote mine down on a small piece of paper & put in my ammo box. I shot the last three rounds (what you see) and my friends asked what my load was.......The paper blew away & I don't remember what the charge was....I'm in the process now of loading more "test" samples... Talk about stupid....

Good luck!!

[pmclaine]

The powder weights do seem to be off by +/- .1 to .3 grains or so with every throw. I'm using IMR4895. But to be honest I don't think it matters much in the Garand loads.

Like anyone I'd like the powder drops to be as close to perfect as possible but with 70 year old equipment, iron sights, and my current satisfaction with HXP surplus loads will .1 to .3 grains really matter? I'm hoping the better bullet will outweigh the negative effect of the powder throw error. If there was a powder measure out there that could be set to take the place of the Dillon I'd consider it. I will be using 4895, 4064 and Varget to start out.

Do the prep steps and loading steps I outline above seem to work? Someone that uses a rapid trim can you confirm the use of your sizing dies and their placement in the process. Do you use the rapid trim die to perform your sizing or do you have a sizing die set up prior to the trimming. My concern is overworking the brass. How about when you move to the loading tool head. Do you lube brass in this step if only using a universal decap to remove polishing media?

Looking forward to breaking down the machine to start this.

[Too_Slow]

There are also a couple of ball type powders that will work well for the Garands that you might try. H335 and BL-C(2), I dont rememb er the load off hand but I have shot a very nice and accurate load with H335 and BL-C(2) was developed for use with 308 and 30-06.

Brian

[oddjob]

FYI....A friend of mine pulled 20 Greek HXP 30-06, 1980 headstamp, bullets and weighed the charges. They weighed from 46.5 to 48.8 grains. Now he felt the 48.8 was a fluke, but it was there. Most of the charges were around 47.0 grains.

[pmclaine]

Cant hurt to try the stick powders with some mods to the measure to make it better.

Still looking for confirmation on the location of size/decapping dies on the two toolhead process using a rapid trim.

[oddjob]

On your case prep....

On station #2 I would full length size and de-cap the primer and then do the trim. When you size the case the brass will stretch....Thats why I trim AFTER the full length sizing. I use the Dillon 1200 trimmer and just followed the instructions. Its on the Dillon web site under manuals. Really easy to set up. I have a friend who never trimmed his brass and saw what happens.....I always trim brass (for rifle). He does too now. Station #6 is where my trimmer is located too.

On your loading Process......

On station #2 is where I use a decapper just to get the media out of the flash hole. I then proceed as you have written.

Again...I load 30-06 on a 550, but I do load .223 on my 1050.

Look at this....Its a 650,but the basics are the same.....http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=313431

Hope this helps......

Edited December 11, 2011 by oddjob

[whistlepig]

This is a 3 shot 200 yard group from my Garand. Loaded on a 550. I have witnesses too!

You obviously picked up my rifle by mistake..... please return it!

[dnmccoy]

Thats a darn good group for a m1...Id take it

[Too_Slow]

Not bad not bad, we used to shoot water balloons with Garands at 400 yards back a few years ago (well some time back in the early to mid 80's) when ours eyes were a bit better.

Brian

[oddjob]

I was shooting with 3 high power rifle shooters and they were surprised. Thats when one asked about the load I was using, but the paper I wrote it on blew away. They got some giggles right after that....

*Note: The friends I shot with were experienced High Power shooters.....They brought out the mats, spotting scopes & etc. I saved a whole lot of time and money (shots) by having them coach me to get the rifle sighted in. They knew exactly what to do for a correct zero.

[Mike Morcillo]

"]My link[/url]Each case was hand filled, just for load purpose, on my first post. To avoid any problems using the Dillon 550 and stick powders, I polished the powder funnel with 600 grit paper, then Simicrome polish, for a mirror finish.

That will avoid the bridging of powder when loading.

The Dillon 550 will drop very accurate loads, especially ball powders, but the differences shouldn't be enough to notice. If your shooting 600yds, then I'd weigh each powder drop. I load one round at a time on the progressive, moving it to each station, then checking at the seating step to make sure there is equal neck tension. Lee factory crimp die is the last stage. Don't forget at the seating die to look into each case for powder, you don't want a squib. Once of prevention..............etc.

Stick with the medium powders for your Garand, 4064 and 4895, they've been used for years with great success.

Edited December 12, 2011 by Mike Morcillo

[twodownzero]

I personally do not shoot anything in my Garand that I have not loaded. I use only 4895 as well. I load them one at a time and weigh every charge. I would not use progressive loaded ammo in a Garand; they are just too precious.

Nothing but the best for my babies.

Edited December 12, 2011 by twodownzero

[Mike Morcillo]

Okay, here's the pic of the Garand 100yd target, Sierra HPBT MK, 48grs 4064. Barrel is from 1955, USGI. Oops, file too big, won't post.

Edited December 12, 2011 by Mike Morcillo

[Mike Morcillo]

Okay, let's try again. Here's the 100yd three shot group with Sierra HTBP MK 150gr

Edited December 13, 2011 by Mike Morcillo

[pmclaine]

Great groups!

I'm polishing my brass and going to start taking the .45 ACP tool head off my machine to replace it with the case prep head. Anyone running a rapid trim on a S1050 that can provide some pointers?