Mattias Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 A few years ago I saw a sideway mount attaching the scope by the extra large holes under the battery lid. The mount was for 2011-series. The mount disappeared before today's popular mounts hit the market. You need to dismount the sight from the mount to change battery. -Was this the only reason why the mount disappeared? I have made myself a prototype. Before I ruin my C-more I want to now if there are any risk with this solution. The mount is built for CZ Tactical Sports and will be easy to fit on a Czechmate. DVC Mattias Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdrissel Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 (edited) Why would this mount ruin your c-more? More photos please. Charlie Edited November 6, 2011 by cdrissel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 I think it likely that you'll both ruin the C-More body relatively quickly, and you'll have problems with retaining zero until you do ruin it... In a standard mount, the C-More is attached to the mount via two bolts that go through the C-More and screw into the metal of the mount, clamping the C-More tightly to the mount. There's no force put on screw holes and threads in the C-More body in the normal mount. Plus, the bolts are pretty large, and spread the force that's imparted to the scope over a relatively larger area of the scope body. Here, you've got two small-ish screws holding the scope onto a mount that are screwed straight into the plastic of the C-more body. Those two small screws have to take all the force of recoil (go watch some slow motion footage of a racegun and look how violent the forces imparted onto the scope are - even relatively thick aluminum mounts flex a bunch, and the scope moves all over the place). In a very short amount of time (maybe just a few rounds), those screws are going to start stretching the plastic of the C-More body, which will result in the zero moving. After a bit longer, they're either going to wallow out the holes or crack the C-More body. Either way, no bueno.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdrissel Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 With out making some mods to the c-more body (plastic) or using an aluminum one, I think it might not be worth the effort. Thare are several 90 deg mounts out that work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIIID Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 I think it likely that you'll both ruin the C-More body relatively quickly, and you'll have problems with retaining zero until you do ruin it... In a standard mount, the C-More is attached to the mount via two bolts that go through the C-More and screw into the metal of the mount, clamping the C-More tightly to the mount. There's no force put on screw holes and threads in the C-More body in the normal mount. Plus, the bolts are pretty large, and spread the force that's imparted to the scope over a relatively larger area of the scope body. Here, you've got two small-ish screws holding the scope onto a mount that are screwed straight into the plastic of the C-more body. Those two small screws have to take all the force of recoil (go watch some slow motion footage of a racegun and look how violent the forces imparted onto the scope are - even relatively thick aluminum mounts flex a bunch, and the scope moves all over the place). In a very short amount of time (maybe just a few rounds), those screws are going to start stretching the plastic of the C-More body, which will result in the zero moving. After a bit longer, they're either going to wallow out the holes or crack the C-More body. Either way, no bueno.... Dave, I don't think they are using the battery cap screw holes, in the photo it looks like there is a plate on the bottom of the c-more. So they are using the two mounting holes as every other mount. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Yea, there are a couple big holes in the battery compartment, and there's nothing important below them on a regular C-more (clickers may vary), but I'm not thinking you'd gain anything over the usual right-angle mount using the 'official' mounting holes. If you 'sandwiched' the plastic to hold the scope on, then it would be likely to shift and move on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 The mount will be made in aluminium. And the small screws holding the lids in place will be send to the fjords. The two bigger holes on ether side of the battery will be drilled to desired dimension. Why not buy a mount like Quinn? -It won't fit the CZ, it's made for 2011. Why not buy a mound made for Tanfoglio? -It won't fit the CZ, the CZ has a wider gripframe. The Czechmate has no other option than the original CZ mount (upright C-more). This is why I'm interested in constructing my own sideway mount. Of course the mount will be trimmed down to be more light weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 This might be what you are trying to copy. Page has not been updated in years, so don't get excited that there might be a fully debugged solution. http://www.ipscgun.com/NEWPARTS.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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