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My new (to me) stock 2


e-mishka

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Just picked up this beauty from ffl last night, its in excelent shape and I am very impressed with fit , finish and cone barrel.

Im going to the range tonight to try it out. Gun has about 3k rounds on it and only mod added was a FO sight.

I gaged trigger pull yesterday da is 10.5 # sa is 4.5 #.

I definatelly want to lighten up da, I will polish up trigger bar and plunger later this week, any other suggestions on how to improve da and stay legal in production ?

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Edited by e-mishka
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this is what I did to get the best DA trigger I have on a Tanfoglio.

pollish the plunger,

the bottom of the trigger bar where the plunger rides

the sides of the trigger bar where they contact the frame

the top of the trigger bar where it rubs on the botom of the sear cage,

the bottom of the sear cage where the trigger bar rubs.

the notch in the back of the frame where the hammer interrupter rides.

add some flits to some oil and put it on the contact surface where the iterrupter engages the trigger bar and dry fired double action about a dozen times, clean, lube and re-assemble, try trigger and do again if nessesary. this took the staging out of the DA pull

and last but not least put in a 13 or 14lb main spring. I have had good luck with the 13lb.

I dont know what the final pull weights are but they ar way less than stock and smooth

I have done a couple of guns without polishing the bottom of the sear cage and I can definatly feel the difference in the DA pull,

good luck

Mike

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Mike, do you only use Federal as your primers?

I've heard that going to 13 lbs main springs leads to light strikes, unless you install to the Henning XL Firing Pin. Installing to the XL Firing Pin will force you remove the firing pin block, which then makes the gun illegal for USPSA Production.

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Contact tangofoliofan here on the forums. He can do a trigger job for you that is just amazing!

i sent him a message couple days ago, but no response yet. i'll try to contact him again in a few days

Edited by e-mishka
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Contact tangofoliofan here on the forums. He can do a trigger job for you that is just amazing!

i sent him a message couple days ago, but no response yet. i'll try to contact him again in a few days

I'll ping him on Facebook to let him know to check his BE forum account.

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this is what I did to get the best DA trigger I have on a Tanfoglio.

pollish the plunger,

the bottom of the trigger bar where the plunger rides

the sides of the trigger bar where they contact the frame

the top of the trigger bar where it rubs on the botom of the sear cage,

the bottom of the sear cage where the trigger bar rubs.

the notch in the back of the frame where the hammer interrupter rides.

add some flits to some oil and put it on the contact surface where the iterrupter engages the trigger bar and dry fired double action about a dozen times, clean, lube and re-assemble, try trigger and do again if nessesary. this took the staging out of the DA pull

and last but not least put in a 13 or 14lb main spring. I have had good luck with the 13lb.

I dont know what the final pull weights are but they ar way less than stock and smooth

I have done a couple of guns without polishing the bottom of the sear cage and I can definatly feel the difference in the DA pull,

good luck

Mike

Thanks for the advise, i will try it after the weekend. I've polished trigger bar and plunger on my match before, so im familiar with disassembly of that section. Any good links on how to disassemble things you are talking about here:

"the bottom of the sear cage where the trigger bar rubs.

the notch in the back of the frame where the hammer interrupter rides. (not even sure where it is yet)

add some flits to some oil and put it on the contact surface where the iterrupter engages the trigger bar and dry fired double action about a dozen times, clean, lube and re-assemble, try trigger and do again if nessesary. this took the staging out of the DA pull"

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Contact tangofoliofan here on the forums. He can do a trigger job for you that is just amazing!

i sent him a message couple days ago, but no response yet. i'll try to contact him again in a few days

I'll ping him on Facebook to let him know to check his BE forum account.

thank you

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one thing you can do to reduce or eliminate light or off primer strikes is polish the fpb and the area the firing pin rides along the FPB. I had a couple of "odd" strikes with the factory hammer spring. What I believe happens is the fpb stays up after debrise accumulates. What would make it more reliable IMHO is a slighter stronger FPB spring + a good polishing.. Mine is legal fyi. I still use the FPB and it is functional.

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Just picked up this beauty from ffl last night, its in excelent shape and I am very impressed with fit , finish and cone barrel.

Im going to the range tonight to try it out. Gun has about 3k rounds on it and only mod added was a FO sight.

I gaged trigger pull yesterday da is 10.5 # sa is 4.5 #.

I definatelly want to lighten up da, I will polish up trigger bar and plunger later this week, any other suggestions on how to improve da and stay legal in production ?

That's a beauty. How much did it run you, if you don't mind me asking?

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Just picked up this beauty from ffl last night, its in excelent shape and I am very impressed with fit , finish and cone barrel.

Im going to the range tonight to try it out. Gun has about 3k rounds on it and only mod added was a FO sight.

I gaged trigger pull yesterday da is 10.5 # sa is 4.5 #.

I definatelly want to lighten up da, I will polish up trigger bar and plunger later this week, any other suggestions on how to improve da and stay legal in production ?

That's a beauty. How much did it run you, if you don't mind me asking?

i'll pm you

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So after a good polishing of trigger bar, plunger, sear cage and interrupter it feels a lot smoother. A liitle bit lilghter, still heavy but smoother. Im waiting on new 15# hammer spring and 18# plunger spring from henning.

Hopefully it will function well with 15# hammer spring, henning advised me to get that perticullar one.

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Got springs today and after install and additional polishing i got da to about 8.5# and sa to just under 4#. What else can i do to get to about 5-6# da and 3-3.5# sa? should i get 14# main spring?

Shot it at a 200+ rounds match yesterday, i'm getting to like it more every time i use it. No issues with 15# hammer spring and factory ammo at all.

Still trying to find a way to get DA to 5-6#, any ideas?

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I don't have gauge for measuring my trigger weight. I just go by what feels right for the way I shoot.

This helps a little bit: Change the Trigger Return Spring angle from the 45 degrees that it usually is in to about 85 degrees. The initial pre-travel on the DA draw will feel very loose and almost sloppy until the interrupter start to press against the trigger bar.

Once the trigger bar is pushing against the interrupter, all the pressure is now primarily dependent on the hammer spring weight. If you can go down to 14# or 13# hammer spring, that would be the easiest way to get a lighter DA pull. You may have to contend with light strikes unless you always load with Federal primers. (Looks like the prices for Federal are going down, at least at Powder Valley's website.)

Polishing where the surfaces where the trigger bars against the frame and the sear are going to help a little bit for lowering friction and making the trigger weight feel a bit lighter.

One of my winter projects is to see if some tweaks can be done on the arrangement of the trigger bar, interrupter, and hammer so that a mechanical advantaged can be gained during DA pull. It's pretty low on my priority list though, because if you think about it: in a typical 7 stage match with about 140 rounds, you'll only be firing 7 double action shots versus 133 single action shots.

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Just ordered new 14# hammer spring. So if I adjust trigger return spring like you suggesting, wouldn't it cause issues with trigger reset?

If you look closely at the trigger reset angle for the Stock 2, if the muzzle is pointing at 9' o'clock, the trigger reset seems to happen at about 5 o'clock to 5:30. The trigger return spring tweak changes the spring leg from pointing to 7:30 to about 6:30. I felt that there was still enough cushion and tension in the spring to bring the trigger back to reset. Additionally, since I slap the trigger anyway (unlike on my Glock where I ride the reset), it didn't matter to me how "crisp" the reset is or not.

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