TimAustinTX Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Is the Redding National Match 3-Die Set 223 Remington worth the money or is there something better that's of a comparable price? I have been reloading pistol rounds but just started loading 223 using some Hornady dies but so far I'm not a far of them and I'm looking to upgrade. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 I use the Honady dies with good results for 223 , If you plan on seting the 223 for 1/4MOA at 200yards you may want the Redding dies , BUT if you plan to load for magazin size bullets what you have is fine . I loaded some single shot 223 rounds that would not fit in the mags and got great long rang results. even with the hornady dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimAustinTX Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 I use the Honady dies with good results for 223 , If you plan on seting the 223 for 1/4MOA at 200yards you may want the Redding dies , BUT if you plan to load for magazin size bullets what you have is fine . I loaded some single shot 223 rounds that would not fit in the mags and got great long rang results. even with the hornady dies. I'm having issues with the crimp being too weak. If I tighten it down more it smashes the case and ruins it. The bullet is slipping if I put much pressure on it so I'm getting a little frustrated with it. Do you have any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Try LEEs factory crimp die for .223. The FCDs for handguns are a terrible idea IMHO, but the rifle FCDs have potential. Basically, they're a collet type crimper that isn't actuated by the case at all. The bad news? You need to keep your brass trimmed to get the greatest consistency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I'm having issues with the crimp being too weak. If I tighten it down more it smashes the case and ruins it. The bullet is slipping if I put much pressure on it so I'm getting a little frustrated with it. Do you have any suggestions? Try seating and then crimping in a separate process. The probable cause is crimp done before bullet fully seated. Try seating with die backed out and then crimp with seater backed out or a dedicated seater die after seating. As for the bad reputation of Lee FCD for pistol cartridges. I get great results and use the die for all my pistol rounds. It's basically what the factory does with store bought ammo, hence the name; factory crimp die... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 the factory doesn't squash your ammunition in a carbide die as a final step. This is especially ruinous for cast bullets, and the very popular soft plated bullets used by many shooters. FCDs create a lot of unexplained leading, keyholing, and accuracy issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimAustinTX Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 So here is a picture of what my problems are. The bullet on the left shows how the brass is being compressed and mushrooming. I believe the Redding set has a separate seating and crimp die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 So here is a picture of what my problems are. The bullet on the left shows how the brass is being compressed and mushrooming. I believe the Redding set has a separate seating and crimp die. When you adjusted the die down, did you turn in small increments? As in fraction of a revolution at a time? The buckling of the case is caused by the seater plug pushing down on the bullet after the case was crimped. Instead try this; back out seat/crimp die until it will not apply any crimp. Adjust just seater plug to desired OAL (with die backed out). Back out seater plug a several turns. Raise press ram fully. With ram fully raised and seater backed out, screw down die until it touches case mouth, be sure seater is not touching bullet. Lower ram and screw down die a fraction of a turn at a time until desired crimp achieved, then lock to that adjustment. And lastly, raise ram fully and adjust seater to bullet. If you still get collapsed cases, you are crimping more than necessary or case mouth not sized to spec. Are you flaring case mouth? Can you push the bullet on the collapsed case? Seating and crimping on separate station would also resolve your issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 the factory doesn't squash your ammunition in a carbide die as a final step. This is especially ruinous for cast bullets, and the very popular soft plated bullets used by many shooters. FCDs create a lot of unexplained leading, keyholing, and accuracy issues. I saw a video of a factory assembly line that showed a final step that did basically what the FCD does. I searched for the video but sorry to say, couldn't locate. As for the FCD doing harm, as with many things, what works for one, may not for another. Probably same reason Glock guys swear by Glock and XD guys...XD's. For me, I find the FCD does wonders for feeding reliability and so says my buddy. We both shoot/load cast and neither of us have leading or accuracy problems and the FCD cured feeding issues we USED TO experience. Most of the other guys at our range don't use the FCD but if they were having feeding problems, I would recommend that they try a FCD... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 it seams more like the neck is too big , I don't normal use any crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 If you are using a combo seat/crimp die, you MUST trim the cases to proper length after sizing, prior to loading. Come to think of it, trimming is necessary no matter what... jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 223 is really sensitive to case length. You could have collapsed the neck because the case needed trimming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 He says his bullets can be pushed in without crimp and started seeing collapsed shoulder only after increasing crimp. Probably not case length issue. More probably die not sizing neck to specs, flaring excessively or crimp die adjustment off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinceU1 Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 I'd take a good hard look at the expander button on the de-capping stem. It might be a bit oversized and if it is, the manufacturer should replace it as a freebie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 I had a thought, you might check your decapper adjustment. On some sizer dies, the decapper is also an expander. If you have the decapper too long it might be expanding your case excessively. Try adjusting so that the decapping pin is just long enough to drive the spent primer out. Also, some dies the pin can be driven into the decapping spindle to prevent damage, so be sure the decapping pin is not to far into the spindle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now