midget Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 I need to lose a little bit of weight on my 1911. I am seriously considering tri-topping it. I have a Dawson's front and a Bomar's rear sight already mounted on it. When the material is removed from the top of the slide, its going to leave a gap in the front sight. Is this going to be an issue/eye soar? I realize the gap is probably going to be very small, but I want to know before I continue researching this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Steele Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 It's my understanding that Dawson made a front sight for Freedom Gunworks just for that reason. E-mail Bobby to get more details. Get his e-mail off his web sight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Well, I called Dawsons and found that I would have to ship the slide to them after it is complete for them to make a new sight for it. I think that I'm going to do something similar to what another member pm'd me with: That being said, does anyone have a 1911 auto slide jig (preferably the Brownells one) that I can rent/borrow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Are you going to tri-top and mill holes? Tri-top is legal for Single Stack division, but I'd be careful drilling slide lightening holes like that picture...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 (edited) Are you going to tri-top and mill holes? Tri-top is legal for Single Stack division, but I'd be careful drilling slide lightening holes like that picture...... No holes, just the tri-top... I want to lower the weight of the slide "legally" Oh, and Corey, If I would have field stripped the gun and cleaned the barrel and feed ramp, I could have gotten that .2 ounces back... Edited August 2, 2011 by midget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgford58 Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Well, I called Dawsons and found that I would have to ship the slide to them after it is complete for them to make a new sight for it. I think that I'm going to do something similar to what another member pm'd me with: That being said, does anyone have a 1911 auto slide jig (preferably the Brownells one) that I can rent/borrow? If you have the bomar low mount rear you want to stop the top and side flats at the same point around the top of the slide. Cosmetic more than functional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 I am not sure if I have the low mount one, this is what is on it (This picture is a little outdated): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgford58 Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Its the low mount. That's OK. Just stop the tri-top on the top land also. It can be a pain to get the two angles the same width and length but it looks cool when you are done. Depending on how much you are trying to shed in weight you may consider only cutting the top flat and serrating? Just an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 (edited) What cutter are you using to do it? I'm trying to find something that will allow me to cut and ogee curve at the stops... Edited August 2, 2011 by midget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latech15 Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Those pics are from Gans Enterprises, just to give credit where it is due. I had the exact cuts done on my edge. It is in the mail on the way back to me as I type this. Oh, an just as a side plug for Gary. I sent the slide out on Friday, he sent pics of the completed gun on the following Tuesday. In the mail on Wednesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Those pics are from Gans Enterprises, just to give credit where it is due. I had the exact cuts done on my edge. It is in the mail on the way back to me as I type this. Oh, an just as a side plug for Gary. I sent the slide out on Friday, he sent pics of the completed gun on the following Tuesday. In the mail on Wednesday. He does do great work from the pictures, however I'm too much a do-it-yourself'er at this point to send it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Did you try to contact Bobby? He has done exactly what you are looking to do. He has the sight to fit the modified dovetail. If not, use the side of the cutter not the bottom. Gives you the radius ends and less tool marks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oak hill Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Those pics are from Gans Enterprises, just to give credit where it is due. I had the exact cuts done on my edge. It is in the mail on the way back to me as I type this. Oh, an just as a side plug for Gary. I sent the slide out on Friday, he sent pics of the completed gun on the following Tuesday. In the mail on Wednesday. Let us know how much weight it shaved off when you get it back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgford58 Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Depending on the radius you want on the end - I use a 3/8 end mill for 90% but also a 1/2 if I want a smoother curve. The trick isn't the ends. The trick is indicating in the slide so that the lands you create are the same width down the length of the slide and setting the angle so that they match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Depending on the radius you want on the end - I use a 3/8 end mill for 90% but also a 1/2 if I want a smoother curve. The trick isn't the ends. The trick is indicating in the slide so that the lands you create are the same width down the length of the slide and setting the angle so that they match. When you do it, do you go off of the existing ridge and cut your 45's first? Or do you indicate off the top of the slide and run the cut? Also, when you are running your cut on the top, what depth are you going to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 I indicate off the top of the slide. All slides are not equal. I've seen some where the ridge on the right was higher than the ridge on the left. I use a 1* block under it to get it close then adjust for zero run out. I cut the depth until I achieve .400 width flat top. Can't remember what the depth came out to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyC Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 I just got a Trojan that looks to be flat topped. Can I have someone cut the sides for it to be tri topped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Just sent Bobby an email. If it is cheap enough, I will have him do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digby7 Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 does tri-topping reduce the overall longevity of the slide itself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Well, I called Dawsons and found that I would have to ship the slide to them after it is complete for them to make a new sight for it. I think that I'm going to do something similar to what another member pm'd me with: Matt Cheely did the same to mine: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 Well I got a chance to work on it last night... One word of advice for anyone attempting to do this, get the jig, doing it without it is very slow and very difficult (especially on an older slide)... Here is a couple pictures of what has been done so far, need to do a lot more cleanup... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgford58 Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 You did really good! I like how it turned out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 You did really good! I like how it turned out. Thank you! The only problem I'm running into is how to transition the radius on the left hand side to the flat section... I think I have a way to do it, but I will have to wait till later tonight to draw it out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Got a little more done tonight... Question for all of you guys out there who have done some metal finishing... I am running into an issue, I can't tell if the casting had really small inclusions or if I'm some how causing some pitting while doing the polishing work, but is there any way to eliminate them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Sorry to keep bumping this, but I kind of like how it turned out! Oh, and Caswell's black oxide kit is pretty awesome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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