Hornday LNL

[feederic]

I've been loading with my LNL for over a year now, and since I haven't really experienced other properly setup reloading presses I was wondering if I could get a few questions answered here.

1) My shell plate likes to be a little loose, otherwise it feels like it drags on the machine as it rotates through the stages. When it drags it doesn't quite index right or consistently. Is this normal? What can I do to tighten that bolt up and get it to run smoothly?

2) My powder drop creeps about a grain every 100 rounds or so. I bought the LNL used with no directions. Is there a way to adjust the drop so that it throws consistently?

I would appreciate any input.

[blind bat]

Both are abnormal behavior.

1. Make certain to clean under the shell plate every loading session. Also, the shell plate directions say that a tiny dab of greese should be applied to the ball bearing at the bottom of the shell plate. I regrease the shell plate every 10,000 rounds or so.

Do you have more than one shell plate? If so, do both plates do the same thing? Check the shell plate with a straight edge. It might be bent/warped.

Is the spring buggered up and dragging on the shell plate?

If you need the plate to turn a little more in order to index into the detent, loosen the right side adjustment pawl screw about 1/16th of a turn at a time. I'd suggest marking the original setting before messing with it.

2. I assume you mean .1 grain per 100 drops? Do you have the micrometer insert or the standard insert? I'm guessing it's the Micrometer insert because I can't see the standard insert loosening up as it has a lock nut. It doesn't take much force to turn the micrometer insert. If yours is excessively loose I'd call Hornady and ask for a replacement.

[feederic]

Both are abnormal behavior.

1. Make certain to clean under the shell plate every loading session. Also, the shell plate directions say that a tiny dab of greese should be applied to the ball bearing at the bottom of the shell plate. I regrease the shell plate every 10,000 rounds or so.

Do you have more than one shell plate? If so, do both plates do the same thing? Check the shell plate with a straight edge. It might be bent/warped.

Is the spring buggered up and dragging on the shell plate?

If you need the plate to turn a little more in order to index into the detent, loosen the right side adjustment pawl screw about 1/16th of a turn at a time. I'd suggest marking the original setting before messing with it.

2. I assume you mean .1 grain per 100 drops? Do you have the micrometer insert or the standard insert? I'm guessing it's the Micrometer insert because I can't see the standard insert loosening up as it has a lock nut. It doesn't take much force to turn the micrometer insert. If yours is excessively loose I'd call Hornady and ask for a replacement.

Thanks for the help!

I keep the press relatively clean, and typically lightly oil the bottom of the shell plate. I applied some grease today and it seems to be much smoother.

And no, I mean 1 full grain per 100 rounds. I typically recalibrate the drop every 25 rounds or so and check dimensions. This just did not feel right at all. I do have the standard insert and I guess I need to hunt down the lock nut.

[blind bat]

FYI - Below is a picture of the assembled metering insert. The lock nut I'm referring to is the round knurled part towards the bottom.

Hornady uses an o-ring as a lock washer to keep the lock nut from backing off as the press is cycling.

Here's a link to the full metering insert on sale at Midway:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=631849

They show the rifle ("standard") metering insert in the photo. The actual handgun insert is shown here: http://www.hornady.com/store/Standard-Lock-N-Load-Pistol-Metering-Insert-1-Each/

The LNL should have shipped with both the handgun and riffle metering drums/inserts and I believe they use the same lock nut.

P.S. I don't use oil on the bottom of my shell plate. Also, make sure you keep the primer slide clean. I blow it out with compressed air before every loading session. (Just be careful, it's possible to eject an entire tube full of primers with too much pressure... don't ask how I know.) A tiny bit of powder or brass shavings will cause a lot of problems.

Edited July 14, 2011 by blind bat

[GuyC]

I feel like the LNL is a great press, it is the case feeder that sucks. I have yet to use a dillon but I know I have a hell of a time getting my case feeder to be consistent. It throws doubles cases one out of every five no matter how much I adjust it. I hate how they use really cheap metal. I have broken the metal pilot slot for the shell plate twice.

If they made the case feeder better, or maybe in my situation easier to adjust, it really would be the best press. Switching calibers with the case feeder is just not a option. After you finally get it tweaked and you have to take everything apart to do a different caliber is a PIA.

If anyone has some advice, or has theirs running great I would love to hear it.

I must say their customer service is the best I have ever dealt with.

Edited July 14, 2011 by GuyC

[Shadowrider]

As for your powder measure problem, it sounds almost like powder is building up in the expander. Clean it with brake cleaner. I made the mistake of using the recommended Hornady gun cleaner and lube. Was it ever a pain! Powder sticks to that stuff like crazy. I won't make that mistake again. Clean all the metal components that powder touches with brake cleaner, acetone, etc. You don't want any kind of residue left on those surfaces.

[CocoBolo]

As for your powder measure problem, it sounds almost like powder is building up in the expander. Clean it with brake cleaner. I made the mistake of using the recommended Hornady gun cleaner and lube. Was it ever a pain! Powder sticks to that stuff like crazy. I won't make that mistake again. Clean all the metal components that powder touches with brake cleaner, acetone, etc. You don't want any kind of residue left on those surfaces.

+1 Thats what I do, and never any lube on the powder measure. I load 9 Major if I went +1gr I'd be in deep weeds.

Another thing that I do is verify charge weight on two scales, a beam and an electronic. No they are never exactly the same +- .1 gr. In cold weather electronic scales can go bonkers, I load in my Metal building gets hot and cold in there. The bad part is I have to turn the fan off when using the scale, the slightest breeze throws things way off, and don't exhale over the scale.

Edited July 14, 2011 by CocoBolo

[blind bat]

Ohh yes, I totally forgot that Hornady ships everything soaked in oil. Just be careful using brake cleaner near the powder measure plastics. It will stain the clear plastic hopper (don't ask me how I know). I also dump a small tube of graphite into the empty powder measure occasionally and work the mechanism to run it all through. You can also try rubbing the outside of the powder measure hopper with a dryer sheet if you are getting powder clinging to the hopper.

[junkie]

Ohh yes, I totally forgot that Hornady ships everything soaked in oil. Just be careful using brake cleaner near the powder measure plastics. It will stain the clear plastic hopper (don't ask me how I know). I also dump a small tube of graphite into the empty powder measure occasionally and work the mechanism to run it all through. You can also try rubbing the outside of the powder measure hopper with a dryer sheet if you are getting powder clinging to the hopper.

+1

If you like discolored plastic go ahead spray the plastic with brake cleaner then wipe it with a red terry towel. I had red dot powder for a bit after that.

Did the powder drop ever get figured out???

[feederic]

Thanks everyone, it sounds like some great tips made it my way. I will be taking a look at the powder drop this weekend, taking it apart, and giving it some attention. Based on the pictures I know that I do have the pistol metering assembly in there and not the rifle. I'll check back in once everything is cleaned up and reevaluated.

[ben b.]

My second pistol micrometer insert was loose. It would roll off the setting when I was lifting it for samples. Tightening the hex bolt at the base didn't help. I sent it back to Hornady and they replaced it for me with one that was not so loose.

Much later I had one get loose and cause variances in throw weights, took a while for me to find it but tightening the hex bolt solved the prob.

HTH

Ben

[OUshooter]

I feel like the LNL is a great press, it is the case feeder that sucks. I have yet to use a dillon but I know I have a hell of a time getting my case feeder to be consistent. It throws doubles cases one out of every five no matter how much I adjust it. I hate how they use really cheap metal. I have broken the metal pilot slot for the shell plate twice.

If they made the case feeder better, or maybe in my situation easier to adjust, it really would be the best press. Switching calibers with the case feeder is just not a option. After you finally get it tweaked and you have to take everything apart to do a different caliber is a PIA.

If anyone has some advice, or has theirs running great I would love to hear it.

I must say their customer service is the best I have ever dealt with.

I'd bet there is some improvement that could be made, because mine runs like a top. I haven't experienced the conditions you mentioned once I got it going. In the interest of not highjacking the thread let's trade PM's. Maybe we can get it running.

[roadapple]

As for your powder measure problem, it sounds almost like powder is building up in the expander. Clean it with brake cleaner. I made the mistake of using the recommended Hornady gun cleaner and lube. Was it ever a pain! Powder sticks to that stuff like crazy. I won't make that mistake again. Clean all the metal components that powder touches with brake cleaner, acetone, etc. You don't want any kind of residue left on those surfaces.

I'll watch the powder measure closer now. I was not aware that folks were having trouble with powder sticking to the surfaces cleaned with the One-Shot. I've used the One-Shot cleaner and dry lube, and found it worked pretty good. I sprayed it liberally, like the guy in the video (video that comes with the press), and scrub all the oil / grease out. Then I spray it down again, and wipe it all off with those blue shop towels. I let the parts set for several hours, to ensure they are completely dry, before I re-assemble. It has worked well for me so far. I make sure I wipe it all off any surface the powder will touch. On other surfaces, such as the linkage, I spray it on, wipe off the excess, and let it dry. It leaves a film of dry lube. I have not tried brake cleaner. That might be a whole lot faster... It's bound to be cheaper. Hornady One-Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube is over $8.00 per can at my local shooting supply.

I have had a lot of trouble with the LNL AP, but the powder measure has worked great! The linkage (CAPD: Case Activated Powder Drop) needs a little lock-tite on the screws to keep them from backing-out and falling apart, but the measure has been super consistant with ball and flake powder.

[ben b.]

I made the mistake of using the recommended Hornady gun cleaner and lube. Was it ever a pain! Powder sticks to that stuff like crazy. I won't make that mistake again.

Any chance you used One-Shot case lube, instead of One-Shot cleaner/dry lube?

[feederic]

Thanks again for the advice everyone. I cleaned out the machine, greased her up (appropriately) and discovered the lock nut in the powder drop. The press is running smooth and dropping powder consistently

[Robphillips00]

Inside the powder drop?

[mizer67]

Things I'd like to make better:

1.) Priming leverage (can't get enough to seat all primers)

2.) Available priming depth (can't get some brands of primers seated deep enough to fire 100%)

3.) Consistent machining (shell plates, primer shuttles, bushings, primer rams)

4.) Handle ergos (needs a roller handle or larger ball)

5.) Lock mechanism for LNL bushings to keep them tight 100% (like Lee)

6.) Locking ring to keep handle from backing out

[Shadowrider]

As for your powder measure problem, it sounds almost like powder is building up in the expander. Clean it with brake cleaner. I made the mistake of using the recommended Hornady gun cleaner and lube. Was it ever a pain! Powder sticks to that stuff like crazy. I won't make that mistake again. Clean all the metal components that powder touches with brake cleaner, acetone, etc. You don't want any kind of residue left on those surfaces.

I'll watch the powder measure closer now. I was not aware that folks were having trouble with powder sticking to the surfaces cleaned with the One-Shot. I've used the One-Shot cleaner and dry lube, and found it worked pretty good. I sprayed it liberally, like the guy in the video (video that comes with the press), and scrub all the oil / grease out. Then I spray it down again, and wipe it all off with those blue shop towels. I let the parts set for several hours, to ensure they are completely dry, before I re-assemble. It has worked well for me so far. I make sure I wipe it all off any surface the powder will touch. On other surfaces, such as the linkage, I spray it on, wipe off the excess, and let it dry. It leaves a film of dry lube. I have not tried brake cleaner. That might be a whole lot faster... It's bound to be cheaper. Hornady One-Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube is over $8.00 per can at my local shooting supply.

I have had a lot of trouble with the LNL AP, but the powder measure has worked great! The linkage (CAPD: Case Activated Powder Drop) needs a little lock-tite on the screws to keep them from backing-out and falling apart, but the measure has been super consistant with ball and flake powder.

Yep, I miss my LNL powder measure. One of these days I'll land another one and put on the 650.

I made the mistake of using the recommended Hornady gun cleaner and lube. Was it ever a pain! Powder sticks to that stuff like crazy. I won't make that mistake again.

Any chance you used One-Shot case lube, instead of One-Shot cleaner/dry lube?

Nope, it was definitely the dry lube. And I let it dry overnight too. I looked up the MSDS and it lists two "proprietary waxes" as ingredients.

[Jetracer013]

I have the same issues with the "shell plates dragging". In my case however, it is a result of primers not seating deep enough. I have to double tap the primers in to make sure they seat properly or else a high primer will drag and prohibit proper indexing. I believe this issue is a result of the relatively soft frame casting that the primer seating stem is actuated by. Since this post Is called things I would make better...... I would drill the area under the priming stem, tap it and use a harder metal base that could be adjusted/replaced as necessary.

[dlm3]

I've been loading with my LNL for over a year now, and since I haven't really experienced other properly setup reloading presses I was wondering if I could get a few questions answered here.

1) My shell plate likes to be a little loose, otherwise it feels like it drags on the machine as it rotates through the stages. When it drags it doesn't quite index right or consistently. Is this normal? What can I do to tighten that bolt up and get it to run smoothly?

This is an old post and I'm new here so forgive me if someone else has answered this, but the shell plate problem is solved for about 50 cents and a trip to your nearest big box store.

Take the shell plate bolt with you (I think it's 5/16, but don't quote me). Go to the fasteners section and pick up 1 flat washer and 1 split ring lock washer.

Reinstall with the flat washer on the shell plate and the lock washer on the flat washer. Torque till snug.

It won't back out again unless you mean it to. Why Hornady didn't do this in the first place is beyond me.

Cheers!

[feederic]

This is an old post and I'm new here so forgive me if someone else has answered this, but the shell plate problem is solved for about 50 cents and a trip to your nearest big box store.

Take the shell plate bolt with you (I think it's 5/16, but don't quote me). Go to the fasteners section and pick up 1 flat washer and 1 split ring lock washer.

Reinstall with the flat washer on the shell plate and the lock washer on the flat washer. Torque till snug.

It won't back out again unless you mean it to. Why Hornady didn't do this in the first place is beyond me.

Cheers!

Thanks for the advice! I had solved pretty much every issue but this one. I bought a 3/8" lock washer and snugged it down, it seems to be doing the trick.

[JGH4445]

Thanks for the tip on the lock washer.

[ben b.]

I made the mistake of using the recommended Hornady gun cleaner and lube. Was it ever a pain! Powder sticks to that stuff like crazy. I won't make that mistake again.

Any chance you used One-Shot case lube, instead of One-Shot cleaner/dry lube?

Nope, it was definitely the dry lube. And I let it dry overnight too. I looked up the MSDS and it lists two "proprietary waxes" as ingredients.

I just bought a 2nd powder measure & linkage for loading rifle. I used One Shot dry lube this time to clean it off. And powder stuck like crazy, made a big mess. I re-cleaned with brake cleaner.

[mjs408]

I to have had problems with high primers dragging on the indexing plate. Currently I have a small indentation where the primer seating pin hits the frame of the press, I have made a tool steel button that I had planned to drill a pocket for and epoxy in place. I have decided to scrap that idea as their isn't any adjust ability in it. That next plan to to make a steel bushing with a shoulder, that has been drilled/tapped in the center so it can be set screwed for some adjust ability.

The above mentioned indent is from a batch of 9mm I loaded that had a lot of S&B brass in it, that had some very tight primer pockets. I didnt want to sort them all out, but had I known it was doing that I would have.

[feederic]

Thanks for the tip on the lock washer.

This has definitely been a golden tip! I have not had to readjust my shellplate since the washer went on.