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Recoil Difference .38 Super and .40 S&W


ede

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L frame S&W is the recoil less, or felt recoil less in a .38 Super L frame shooting major PF loads than with a .40 S&W L frame and major PF loads? Bullet weight would be 140 gr. for the .38 and .180 for the .40.

I have a spare .357 cylinder I'm thinking of getting reamed for .38 Super and cut for moons for my 686 and wonder if the expense is going to give me any real advantage over my 646.

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I'd say no, half a dozen of one six of the other, Similart powerfactors are gonna feel the same, A small difference usually favors a heavier bullet. I would also bet the 40's being shorter reload faster, Changing to a longer heavier barrel in your .40 would probably gain you more than swapping calibers.

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ede, I can only relate from what I have noticed about the L frame 38 super. At about 140 power factor with a 135 moly. It is snappy but quick. I had my L frame chambered for the 38 super. Can I load it faster than the 38 spec. with Comp III or Jets? It is about a wash. :sight: Hopefully Hoppy will chime in as he shoots a 10 or 40 cal L frame. ChrisC may have some useful info. Is it worth the expense, I'm glad I did it but don't think it is that much of a advantage even though I will shoot the 38 super 6 shot at Area 4 and Memphis this year. :cheers: later rdd

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A 610 with the 6" barrel will tame much of the recoil. And perhaps any heavier gun will also.

I have a 38 super set up with a BSA big can of a scope. Even that weight makes a difference.

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Thanks for the replies. I had a 4" 610 and didn't like the way it felt or balanced, but it did feel like shooting a .22. Odd that I didn't like the 610 but like the feel of my 625 and 25. I sold the 610 to get the 646, love the way the 646 feels and balances by I can't shoot a match without getting blisters on the strong hand and have to wear a glove that I don't like wearing. Maybe spending the jack on a 38 super for my 686 isn't such a gret idea. I'm not much of a revolver shooter anyway, mostly do it for fun and diversion from my normal shooting. Thanks again for the replies.

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Since I'm not a hardcore revolver shooter coming up with a minor load for my 646 might be the best and lowest cost option. My 646 has a Ti cylinder.

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Thanks for the replies. I had a 4" 610 and didn't like the way it felt or balanced, but it did feel like shooting a .22. Odd that I didn't like the 610 but like the feel of my 625 and 25. I sold the 610 to get the 646, love the way the 646 feels and balances by I can't shoot a match without getting blisters on the strong hand and have to wear a glove that I don't like wearing. Maybe spending the jack on a 38 super for my 686 isn't such a gret idea. I'm not much of a revolver shooter anyway, mostly do it for fun and diversion from my normal shooting. Thanks again for the replies.

Yeah, I don't think there's anything an L-frame .38 Super could do that your 646 couldn't do just as well or better.

I consider my 646 to be a really fun gun to shoot now and then.....with minor P.F. loads. For serious competition, when you really do need to make major, the 625 is a much better choice.

One other possibility to consider--John Lentz has been campaigning a 646 with a longer/heavier aftermarket barrel, and he's been doing really well with it. I'm sure the extra weight helps make it much more comfortable to shoot.

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I love my S&W646 with minor loads. I would never shoot it with major loads since the recoil is too much for me. For heavier loads my preference is for the S&W625.

I have one of the factory chambered 686's in 38 Super which I also shoot with minor loads. I do not remeber any significant difference between it and the 646 - both use the same Ranch Products moonclips.

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