Pro2AInPA Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) Got a sear housing block with the larger plunger and spring today. Installed it and if anything, the dead trigger got WORSE. Took the RAM out, problem was still there and the gun even DOUBLED once. Put the RAM back in and took the Apex sear out and put a stock S&W sear in the gun. Gun runs 100%, no dead trigger. But of course, now the trigger is a lot heavier. Called Randy at Apex from the range and told him the story. He said sometimes the vertical slide to frame clearance is a little tall and causes dead trigger with the Apex sear, but since the gun had so many trouble free rounds through it before this happened, that's likely not the cause. He said his sears do NOT wear out so the most likely issue is that the surface on the trigger bar loop that contacts the sear has worn prematurely and that a new trigger bar should solve the issue. Now, for the problem. Both Midway and Brownell's are out of stock on the trigger bar assemblies. Anyone know of anyone has them available?????? Edited June 21, 2011 by Pro2AInPA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98006 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 If randy is correct, try opening the loop on the trigger bar a little. I really don't think thats it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 If randy is correct, try opening the loop on the trigger bar a little. I really don't think thats it though. What would your theory be? The idea of dirt causing it absolutely isn't it, since I was using a brand new sear housing block today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98006 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 There is one place you might look. tolerance stacking of worn parts. check the bottom of the striker. it might have worn a little from the constant riding over the sear. opening the loop will cause the reset to be farther forward. tweaking the bar a little will accomplish what the ram does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 There is one place you might look. tolerance stacking of worn parts. check the bottom of the striker. it might have worn a little from the constant riding over the sear. opening the loop will cause the reset to be farther forward. tweaking the bar a little will accomplish what the ram does. Unfortunately I am VERY far away from being a gunsmith so tweaking internal parts isn't something I'll be doing. As far as checking the bottom of the striker, I'm not sure what I'd be looking at (how to tell if it's too worn, etc). I think I may just be using the gun as is with the heavier trigger until I can find a trigger bar in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I don't really know how a trigger bar could affect it. The sear resets under the striker no matter what the position of the trigger bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 (edited) I don't really know how a trigger bar could affect it. The sear resets under the striker no matter what the position of the trigger bar. Very interesting point. I looked at the striker. On the bottom surface it does look oddly worn, but I can't really put it into words. Unfortunately I don't own a camera capable of focusing that close. I'd hate to think the striker has to be replaced every 2,600 rounds though. Edited June 22, 2011 by Pro2AInPA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I don't really know how a trigger bar could affect it. The sear resets under the striker no matter what the position of the trigger bar. Read my earlier post. The trigger bar pushes against the side of the sear during some points of the trigger pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 what generation striker do you have, silver our black? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 what generation striker do you have, silver our black? Silver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98006 Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I think the apex might have less surface area for the striker to contact. that combined with a worn striker engagemnet, will cause it to slide right over the sear without engaging it. put in the stock sear, and it being deeper, works just fine. do you have another MP to swap strikers?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 I think the apex might have less surface area for the striker to contact. that combined with a worn striker engagemnet, will cause it to slide right over the sear without engaging it. put in the stock sear, and it being deeper, works just fine. do you have another MP to swap strikers?? No, but Midway has striker assemblies in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Call S&W. They sent me one for free. I was calling to ask if I could buy a new spring because I was getting light strikes, and they sent me a whole striker assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Call S&W. They sent me one for free. I was calling to ask if I could buy a new spring because I was getting light strikes, and they sent me a whole striker assembly. Thanks for the advice, I'll give them a ring tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acclaym Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 was also having a trigger recovery (dead trigger) problem so I thought I'd post some feedback on how I fixed mine... After I installed the apex flat faced trigger, forward set sear, and ram I dry fired and everything was great as far as reset and trigger recovery. Took her out to the range and had some problems. I was able to shoot a few rounds and then the trigger would not recover. It was only a live fire problem. I tried a deep cleaning with no difference. Tried the stock sear spring with no difference. Was going to try a MA company sear spring but could not find one in stock. I had heard about some m&ps having bent trigger bars that excessively rubbed the frame and that sounded like mine. When I replaced the trigger bar I was able to see that it came in at a bit of a different angle, making no contact with the frame, and have had no trigger recovery issues since. Good luck! Edit: old trigger bar had an "H" stamp and the one I put in has an "S". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamMP9 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I had a similiar issue when I first got my 5" inch pro series . I experienced the sear flutter and ended up changing the housing block and went with an APEX hardened sear and haven't had the issue since . I went so far as to put all apex parts in my m&p's with no issues whatsoever . Like people have said don't give up on it , just remember guns are small machines and all machines have parts issues at one time or another . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newguy Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Just got an email from Speed Shooter Specialties that they have the sear block with the larger spring and plunger in stock. I've been shooting the Apex Competition trigger for several months with no sear flutter. I think that either I'm lucky or it is because I left the original trigger spring in place instead of using the Apex lighter spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newguy Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 A few minutes after posting this, the "new" sear block and spring arrived from Speed Shooter Specialties. This is the second time they sent me the old style sear block with the smaller spring and plunger after I requested the new sear block, which they said they had in stock. Can anyone lead me to where I might find this endangered species? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToneSurfer Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Midway has this one: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/546264/smith-and-wesson-sear-housing-block-without-integral-lock-and-magazine-safety-s-and-w-m-and-p-m-and-p-compact-9mm-luger-357-sig-40-s-and-w This is what would fit in my M&P Pro. Old-style frame, without provision for thumb-safety. This will allow the use of the APEX RAM. Take a look at the customer comments where other's have posted pictures of this block from various angles to make sure it will fit what you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newguy Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 If you have it, try installing the original trigger return spring. While it will bring the trigger pull up to 3-3 1/2 lb, it might cure the sear flutter problem. Brownells has it in stock. After using the Apex competition trigger with the factory trigger return spring, I recently installed the lighter Apex competition trigger spring. While it lightened the trigger pull to 2 1/2 lbs, it seemed that the trigger was crisper with the original trigger spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now