A couple is Hornady LnL issues

[Peakbagr]

I've had a LnL for 3 1/2 years and have loaded a lot of pistol brass with it. Since I've had it, can't seem to fix a few nagging problems.

About 75% of the time, when the shell plate cycles, the primer ram is slightly offcenter.( the shell plate does not come all the way around). So one of my steps is to give the shell plate a little jiggle and then it snaps right into place and I seat the primer. If I forget, then the primer can either get crushed into the bottom of the brass, or, I cycle the press thinking the primer is seated and I end up with a loaded round with no primer. I've played with the pawl adjustments, and the latest combination of small adjustments had the shell plate centering. After loading a few rounds, it was back to having to tap it into place.

My other problem is the seating the brass spent primer tube. I've gone thru one of them trying to get it seated in the bottom of the press, and its replacement keeps falling out. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put and not fall out? It seems that the weight of the plastic tube exacerbates the brass tube falling out of the bottom of the press.

The LnL is an awesome machine, but these issues have been driving me nuts.

I just ordered a conversion kit. When winter comes around I'm going to install it and have Hornady recut my shell plates.

Hope you guys can help out.

[SSTim]

I've had a LnL for 3 1/2 years and have loaded a lot of pistol brass with it. Since I've had it, can't seem to fix a few nagging problems.

About 75% of the time, when the shell plate cycles, the primer ram is slightly offcenter.( the shell plate does not come all the way around). So one of my steps is to give the shell plate a little jiggle and then it snaps right into place and I seat the primer. If I forget, then the primer can either get crushed into the bottom of the brass, or, I cycle the press thinking the primer is seated and I end up with a loaded round with no primer. I've played with the pawl adjustments, and the latest combination of small adjustments had the shell plate centering. After loading a few rounds, it was back to having to tap it into place.

My other problem is the seating the brass spent primer tube. I've gone thru one of them trying to get it seated in the bottom of the press, and its replacement keeps falling out. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put and not fall out? It seems that the weight of the plastic tube exacerbates the brass tube falling out of the bottom of the press.

I had a similar problem - give hornady customer service a call they will send you a replacement spider gear (the thing the pawls drive on ) cured my indexing problem no issue. The primer tube just needs some jb weld or stick a star screwdriver down the end and expand it a fraction the original was a press fit careful you dont block the tube with anything and stop the primers from getting through.

Tim

[CocoBolo]

First I would try adjusting the indexing, determing which adjustment controls the movement on the up stroke, turn it 1/8 round or less in one direction and check if better or worse and adjust as necessary, always keeping track of what you have done so worse case you can get back to where you were. I dealt with my indexing problem for about a year, then one day I had enough so I got the allen wrench out and did it, been working great since then. If you can't get it adjusted by all mean get Hornady on the line while in front of the press.

Clean the brass tube well put some indian head schillack on it (sold at auto parts stores) shove it in the hole and let is set over night. I use to use that on copper head gaskets on ovarl track race engines, its good stuff. It is a swedge fit and you could also just use a flaring tool to slightly enlarge the end of the tube and that would probably hold it, notice word slightly.

Edited June 6, 2011 by CocoBolo

[Peakbagr]

Thanks, guys.

For almost all of it's 3+ years, I've been playing the the pawl adjustment. Tiny tweaks at a time, following the manual. Hornady's customer service is mostly very good and I had one of their guys on the phone about 18 months ago. He advised small turns and we tried it. Same result. Sometimes the tweaks work for a little while and then the timing just goes back to the way it was, always with the shellplate opening just a tad short.

I know the press pretty well by now, but I'm not a machinist or super handy. Would swapping the spider gear be a big deal to do and would the press have to be dismounted from the bench? There have been times when I've considered sending the press back to Hornady for a complete tuneup, but then I'd be out of action for a couple of months plus the shipping expense, etc...so I've just put up with the problem. Would really like to get it fixed now.

Regarding the spent primer tube. If I put it in the press with Indian Head shallac of JB Weld, how do I get the tube out if I need to service the press or otherwise remove the tube? When I look at the design, the press is so well made it seems the brass used primer tube insertion set up is really below the design of the press in terms of quality.

[SSTim]

. Would swapping the spider gear be a big deal to do and would the press have to be dismounted from the bench?

Regarding the spent primer tube. If I put it in the press with Indian Head shallac of JB Weld, how do I get the tube out if I need to service the press or otherwise remove the tube? When I look at the design, the press is so well made it seems the brass used primer tube insertion set up is really below the design of the press in terms of quality.

Swapping the spider out is a 5 minute job - at the press , pull the retaining clip off with a small screwdriver / end of a scribe - slide gear and washer off - replace gear , use same washer , replace clip use bigger screwdriver to ensure it clicks into place - done - you may have to get you pawls set up again

CocoB thought it through , I absolutely agree that shallac would be a better application as shallac is not a permanent as JB weld and you could separate that shallac joint by pulling on it - I used JB, If I have to remove it , I would have to cut the tube flush and flip the head over and just run a mill into it, however on saying that I have never needed to in the last 2.5 years that its been there

Edited June 7, 2011 by SSTim

[roadapple]

SSTim,

Do you think JB Weld would stand up to the pressures of the primer ram assembly? I am thinking about JB Welding a small primer cup to the bottom of the primer punch (to make it press further up to seat primers below flush). I have never used JB Weld before, and I do not want to make mess, just to find out it would not hold. The package stated it can be machined, so I would assume it might work.

Thanks

[SSTim]

SSTim,

Do you think JB Weld would stand up to the pressures of the primer ram assembly? I am thinking about JB Welding a small primer cup to the bottom of the primer punch (to make it press further up to seat primers below flush). I have never used JB Weld before, and I do not want to make mess, just to find out it would not hold. The package stated it can be machined, so I would assume it might work.

Thanks

I would call hornady and tell them your primer punch is short stroking they will make life good for you , their customer service is second to none - they replaced a large primer punch for me that was not seating the primers flush with a marginally longer one - you would be up and running again by the week end if you called them today. Other wise a blob of JB weld on the bottom of the punch may work for a while but it will wear eventually and you are probably talking a few thousands at most.

Edited June 7, 2011 by SSTim

[roadapple]

SSTim,

Do you think JB Weld would stand up to the pressures of the primer ram assembly? I am thinking about JB Welding a small primer cup to the bottom of the primer punch (to make it press further up to seat primers below flush). I have never used JB Weld before, and I do not want to make mess, just to find out it would not hold. The package stated it can be machined, so I would assume it might work.

Thanks

I would call hornady and tell them your primer punch is short stroking they will make life good for you , their customer service is second to none - they replaced a large primer punch for me that was not seating the primers flush with a marginally longer one - you would be up and running again by the week end if you called them today. Other wise a blob of JB weld on the bottom of the punch may work for a while but it will wear eventually and you are probably talking a few thousands at most.

I've called Hornady. They have sent out a replacement punch. It is the same size as the old one, and therefore did not solve the problem.

[mizer67]

SSTim,

Do you think JB Weld would stand up to the pressures of the primer ram assembly? I am thinking about JB Welding a small primer cup to the bottom of the primer punch (to make it press further up to seat primers below flush). I have never used JB Weld before, and I do not want to make mess, just to find out it would not hold. The package stated it can be machined, so I would assume it might work.

Thanks

I would call hornady and tell them your primer punch is short stroking they will make life good for you , their customer service is second to none - they replaced a large primer punch for me that was not seating the primers flush with a marginally longer one - you would be up and running again by the week end if you called them today. Other wise a blob of JB weld on the bottom of the punch may work for a while but it will wear eventually and you are probably talking a few thousands at most.

I've called Hornady. They have sent out a replacement punch. It is the same size as the old one, and therefore did not solve the problem.

I've done the same thing for the small primer punch. They only make one size, at least according to the rep. I talked to. last time I called.

I've done the primer cup on the bottom of the ram, and if you find the right primer cup, it'll stay without the JB weld.

Edited June 9, 2011 by mizer67

[CocoBolo]

. Would swapping the spider gear be a big deal to do and would the press have to be dismounted from the bench?

Regarding the spent primer tube. If I put it in the press with Indian Head shallac of JB Weld, how do I get the tube out if I need to service the press or otherwise remove the tube? When I look at the design, the press is so well made it seems the brass used primer tube insertion set up is really below the design of the press in terms of quality.

Swapping the spider out is a 5 minute job - at the press , pull the retaining clip off with a small screwdriver / end of a scribe - slide gear and washer off - replace gear , use same washer , replace clip use bigger screwdriver to ensure it clicks into place - done - you may have to get you pawls set up again

CocoB thought it through , I absolutely agree that shallac would be a better application as shallac is not a permanent as JB weld and you could separate that shallac joint by pulling on it - I used JB, If I have to remove it , I would have to cut the tube flush and flip the head over and just run a mill into it, however on saying that I have never needed to in the last 2.5 years that its been there

That Indian Head is good stuff, and you are correct its not easy to break lose, but it will keep it in there. The only time I removed my tube was to put the ezeject base on, and another time when it got jammed up with primers, yep the little plastic tube filled up and I kept cranking and jammed the works. To get the tube back in hard, I just took one of my center punches put it in the end of the tube and gave it a couple taps to expand the end, then took a small 2# shop hammer and drove it home in the press, has not fallen out.

I keep reading about primer seating problems, and just keep wondering if folks are not screwing the shell plate down good. Put a lttle wheel bearing grease on the little balls and screw the shell plate down till when you press on it with your thumb it does not move. Thats up or down. This could also be a factor in indexing, if there is no spring tension on the ball its not going to snap in place. Or could it be that the hole is full of crud amongus and needs cleaning. I've got a divit under my primer punch after 50K rounds and it still sends primers home with authority. When it stops I got a wire feed welder on a cart right next to it. On the punch its self if you have two take one and use a file and cut the seating shoulder back so you can screw it in deeper to the base plate this will give you more "up" above the primer slide and drive the primer deeper into the pocket.

The Dawson Extended Firing Pin, will drive the primer in and set it off all in one operation, when struck by a hammer driven by a 15# or heavier spring.

[roadapple]

SSTim,

Do you think JB Weld would stand up to the pressures of the primer ram assembly? I am thinking about JB Welding a small primer cup to the bottom of the primer punch (to make it press further up to seat primers below flush). I have never used JB Weld before, and I do not want to make mess, just to find out it would not hold. The package stated it can be machined, so I would assume it might work.

Thanks

I would call hornady and tell them your primer punch is short stroking they will make life good for you , their customer service is second to none - they replaced a large primer punch for me that was not seating the primers flush with a marginally longer one - you would be up and running again by the week end if you called them today. Other wise a blob of JB weld on the bottom of the punch may work for a while but it will wear eventually and you are probably talking a few thousands at most.

I've called Hornady. They have sent out a replacement punch. It is the same size as the old one, and therefore did not solve the problem.

I've done the same thing for the small primer punch. They only make one size, at least according to the rep. I talked to. last time I called.

I've done the primer cup on the bottom of the ram, and if you find the right primer cup, it'll stay without the JB weld.

Thanks!

[roadapple]

I've had a LnL for 3 1/2 years and have loaded a lot of pistol brass with it. Since I've had it, can't seem to fix a few nagging problems.

About 75% of the time, when the shell plate cycles, the primer ram is slightly offcenter.( the shell plate does not come all the way around). So one of my steps is to give the shell plate a little jiggle and then it snaps right into place and I seat the primer. If I forget, then the primer can either get crushed into the bottom of the brass, or, I cycle the press thinking the primer is seated and I end up with a loaded round with no primer. I've played with the pawl adjustments, and the latest combination of small adjustments had the shell plate centering. After loading a few rounds, it was back to having to tap it into place.

My other problem is the seating the brass spent primer tube. I've gone thru one of them trying to get it seated in the bottom of the press, and its replacement keeps falling out. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put and not fall out? It seems that the weight of the plastic tube exacerbates the brass tube falling out of the bottom of the press.

I had a similar problem - give hornady customer service a call they will send you a replacement spider gear (the thing the pawls drive on ) cured my indexing problem no issue. The primer tube just needs some jb weld or stick a star screwdriver down the end and expand it a fraction the original was a press fit careful you dont block the tube with anything and stop the primers from getting through.

Tim

Ijust fixed the problem of high primers, and now, I get the problem of the timing staying off center. Does Hornady think this is something acceptable? They mostly deny all reported problems with priming. Are we supposed to beta test these presses for them? It seems we are paying them to develop their technology. Why do they not fix this? I have seen A LOT of reported problems with these presses. The Hornady techs I have talked to say they do not monitor the internet, so they do not have any knowledge of these problems. It just seems like bad business to me. I REALLY wanted this LNL AP press to work for me. I will just sell it, and replace it with something that will work without all the problems, that Hornady does not seem to aknowledge.

[Robphillips00]

Any luck on your problem?

[Peakbagr]

Hornady is generous with their time and sends replacement parts very quickly. I have a pair of new pawls and spider drive. Haven't taken the time to install them yet so I bump the shell plate each time the press cycles to get the shell plate to drop into its detent. Almost like a rhythm for me.

Eventually going to have to install the two parts but with all the time I've spent with the cycling problem, really not looking forward to it. The LnL is a great press but at least on mine, I've run into its Achilles Heel.

Any luck on your problem?

[angrycookieman]

Roadapple; if you are serious about selling, pm me some info. The issues you are talking about are easy fixes, and that is a great press. I could use another one. I can't think of one to recommend as a replacement, as any press will need some sort of adjustment from time to time. They don't make a perfect one yet.

[sonicslam]

I've had a LnL for 3 1/2 years and have loaded a lot of pistol brass with it. Since I've had it, can't seem to fix a few nagging problems.

About 75% of the time, when the shell plate cycles, the primer ram is slightly offcenter.( the shell plate does not come all the way around). So one of my steps is to give the shell plate a little jiggle and then it snaps right into place and I seat the primer. If I forget, then the primer can either get crushed into the bottom of the brass, or, I cycle the press thinking the primer is seated and I end up with a loaded round with no primer. I've played with the pawl adjustments, and the latest combination of small adjustments had the shell plate centering. After loading a few rounds, it was back to having to tap it into place.

My other problem is the seating the brass spent primer tube. I've gone thru one of them trying to get it seated in the bottom of the press, and its replacement keeps falling out. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put and not fall out? It seems that the weight of the plastic tube exacerbates the brass tube falling out of the bottom of the press.

I had a similar problem - give hornady customer service a call they will send you a replacement spider gear (the thing the pawls drive on ) cured my indexing problem no issue. The primer tube just needs some jb weld or stick a star screwdriver down the end and expand it a fraction the original was a press fit careful you dont block the tube with anything and stop the primers from getting through.

Tim

Ijust fixed the problem of high primers, and now, I get the problem of the timing staying off center. Does Hornady think this is something acceptable? They mostly deny all reported problems with priming. Are we supposed to beta test these presses for them? It seems we are paying them to develop their technology. Why do they not fix this? I have seen A LOT of reported problems with these presses. The Hornady techs I have talked to say they do not monitor the internet, so they do not have any knowledge of these problems. It just seems like bad business to me. I REALLY wanted this LNL AP press to work for me. I will just sell it, and replace it with something that will work without all the problems, that Hornady does not seem to aknowledge.

When you buy the Dillon and it has problems will you be this negative. If you called me on the phone with your attitude I would hang up.

Your best option is sell the press. You won't be happy til you (and probably not even then).

Edited August 6, 2011 by sonicslam

[98sr20ve]

I had all the same problems. Sell it and get a Dillon. My shellplate was tight. It's just some machines don't work with some primer types.

[roadapple]

I've had a LnL for 3 1/2 years and have loaded a lot of pistol brass with it. Since I've had it, can't seem to fix a few nagging problems.

About 75% of the time, when the shell plate cycles, the primer ram is slightly offcenter.( the shell plate does not come all the way around). So one of my steps is to give the shell plate a little jiggle and then it snaps right into place and I seat the primer. If I forget, then the primer can either get crushed into the bottom of the brass, or, I cycle the press thinking the primer is seated and I end up with a loaded round with no primer. I've played with the pawl adjustments, and the latest combination of small adjustments had the shell plate centering. After loading a few rounds, it was back to having to tap it into place.

My other problem is the seating the brass spent primer tube. I've gone thru one of them trying to get it seated in the bottom of the press, and its replacement keeps falling out. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put and not fall out? It seems that the weight of the plastic tube exacerbates the brass tube falling out of the bottom of the press.

I had a similar problem - give hornady customer service a call they will send you a replacement spider gear (the thing the pawls drive on ) cured my indexing problem no issue. The primer tube just needs some jb weld or stick a star screwdriver down the end and expand it a fraction the original was a press fit careful you dont block the tube with anything and stop the primers from getting through.

Tim

Ijust fixed the problem of high primers, and now, I get the problem of the timing staying off center. Does Hornady think this is something acceptable? They mostly deny all reported problems with priming. Are we supposed to beta test these presses for them? It seems we are paying them to develop their technology. Why do they not fix this? I have seen A LOT of reported problems with these presses. The Hornady techs I have talked to say they do not monitor the internet, so they do not have any knowledge of these problems. It just seems like bad business to me. I REALLY wanted this LNL AP press to work for me. I will just sell it, and replace it with something that will work without all the problems, that Hornady does not seem to aknowledge.

When you buy the Dillon and it has problems will you be this negative. If you called me on the phone with your attitude I would hang up.

Your best option is sell the press. You won't be happy til you (and probably not even then).

I did not mention a "Dillon". You did. I'll sell you this press in a heartbeat. YOU can deal with it. I'll buy an RCBS, if it will work. Tell your bosses at Hornady you screwed this one up. BTW, I'm almost sure I did talk to you when I called Hornady customer support. You sound just like them. Read all my other posts on this subject, befor you make a comment... but I guess you already did... TROLL.

[98sr20ve]

Get a Dillon RCBS has issues as well.

[sonicslam]

I've had a LnL for 3 1/2 years and have loaded a lot of pistol brass with it. Since I've had it, can't seem to fix a few nagging problems.

About 75% of the time, when the shell plate cycles, the primer ram is slightly offcenter.( the shell plate does not come all the way around). So one of my steps is to give the shell plate a little jiggle and then it snaps right into place and I seat the primer. If I forget, then the primer can either get crushed into the bottom of the brass, or, I cycle the press thinking the primer is seated and I end up with a loaded round with no primer. I've played with the pawl adjustments, and the latest combination of small adjustments had the shell plate centering. After loading a few rounds, it was back to having to tap it into place.

My other problem is the seating the brass spent primer tube. I've gone thru one of them trying to get it seated in the bottom of the press, and its replacement keeps falling out. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put and not fall out? It seems that the weight of the plastic tube exacerbates the brass tube falling out of the bottom of the press.

I had a similar problem - give hornady customer service a call they will send you a replacement spider gear (the thing the pawls drive on ) cured my indexing problem no issue. The primer tube just needs some jb weld or stick a star screwdriver down the end and expand it a fraction the original was a press fit careful you dont block the tube with anything and stop the primers from getting through.

Tim

Ijust fixed the problem of high primers, and now, I get the problem of the timing staying off center. Does Hornady think this is something acceptable? They mostly deny all reported problems with priming. Are we supposed to beta test these presses for them? It seems we are paying them to develop their technology. Why do they not fix this? I have seen A LOT of reported problems with these presses. The Hornady techs I have talked to say they do not monitor the internet, so they do not have any knowledge of these problems. It just seems like bad business to me. I REALLY wanted this LNL AP press to work for me. I will just sell it, and replace it with something that will work without all the problems, that Hornady does not seem to aknowledge.

When you buy the Dillon and it has problems will you be this negative. If you called me on the phone with your attitude I would hang up.

Your best option is sell the press. You won't be happy til you (and probably not even then).

I did not mention a "Dillon". You did. I'll sell you this press in a heartbeat. YOU can deal with it. I'll buy an RCBS, if it will work. Tell your bosses at Hornady you screwed this one up. BTW, I'm almost sure I did talk to you when I called Hornady customer support. You sound just like them. Read all my other posts on this subject, befor you make a comment... but I guess you already did... TROLL.

I don't work for Hornady. I said get the Dillon to make yourself happy. Don't be a sissy. If you don't like something, go ahead, bitch a little in public then get on with it. Go buy something else. Just make sure that when you have issues with the other color of press you buy (and you WILL have issues because some guys can break a bowling ball in a sandbox) just make sure you are as public about that. And remember, don't be a cry baby and call people trolls. Do yourself a favor and buy the Dillon, as you KNOW that is what you WANTED anyway.

[98sr20ve]

Well, I got rid of my LnL and replaced it with a 650. After 5 months of trying to get a LnL to work the 650 has been a dream.

[sonicslam]

Well, I got rid of my LnL and replaced it with a 650. After 5 months of trying to get a LnL to work the 650 has been a dream.

SAee post #20. If the shoe fits...slip it on.

[98sr20ve]

Well, I got rid of my LnL and replaced it with a 650. After 5 months of trying to get a LnL to work the 650 has been a dream.

SAee post #20. If the shoe fits...slip it on.

So I have owned a Load Master, Lee Classic Turret, Hornady LnL, 550 and 650. I think that gives me a little insight into what works and what doesn't. How many have you owned?

The only two on that list I would not recommend is the Load Master and the LnL.

[sonicslam]

Well, I got rid of my LnL and replaced it with a 650. After 5 months of trying to get a LnL to work the 650 has been a dream.

SAee post #20. If the shoe fits...slip it on.

So I have owned a Load Master, Lee Classic Turret, Hornady LnL, 550 and 650. I think that gives me a little insight into what works and what doesn't. How many have you owned?

The only two on that list I would not recommend is the Load Master and the LnL.

I have owned a LM, but I started with a "Rock Crusher" because I went on a forum and all the so-called (read:self-called "guru's") said that was the schizz. I gave that slow, stupid POS away. Now all of you who have that press or similar and love it goodie for you. To ME, it is worthless. So actually the LM came second. Then I bought the LCT because everyone (again all you experts) said I didn't have enough experience to use a progressive, because as you know, the LM won't make 20 rounds in a row without some sort of infarktion. Again, typical Lee quality. I made the idiotic mistake of giving that albatross ( the LCT, slow, indexing issues and just general Lee overall crap stuff) to my father-in-law. I spent too much time helping him (because he was damn sure he'd make it usefull...he now manually indexes the junker) so now I reload most of his high volume stuff on the LnL AP (9mm). So I decided that the internet is what it is. With all the bad advise I recieved, I skipped asking the "pro's", went to a store that had the LnL AP and actually looked at it. The manager hated the press and was trying to talk me out of it! Seriously! Costing the store owner a sale! He has a 550. He invited me to the house to see/use it. Luckily I did. Wasn't impressed. So I went back and bought the LnL AP. The dude with the Dillon is now looking for work, becuase I explained to the boss (the store owner) he was literally stealing from him. Maybe he'll sell the 550 to make a rent payment. So I have more experience than you think. So stop trolling around, constantly running doen the LnL AP. You've had your day in the sun.