Trigger break location?

[CiDirkona]

I have two different guns, a 10 year old gen 3, and a 20 year old gen 2, with nearly identical upgraded parts in them (zev spring kit, v2 race connector.) Both of them have probably thousands and thousands of rounds through them -- and both were very much used before I got them.

The question I have though, is that the gen 3 trigger seems to break much more towards the rear of the trigger frame, and resets very soon after that forward. The gen 2 breaks very soon in the trigger frame, leaving quite a bit of overtravel.

What could cause this, and how do I get the gen 2 to break later in the travel, and/or have a better reset? (I realize eliminating overtravel can be done as well, but I'd like to do that after some of these other items are tuned.)

I was thinking that maybe adjusting the SHAPE of the trigger bar's vertical rearward tang -- the part that rubs under the connector, could make this change. I do have a spare trigger I could try if I screw this one up by changing shape. Thoughts anyone?

[BlueOvalBruin]

Are you sure the connectors are identical. Glockworx has made a few different ones.

[JBP55]

Are you sure the connectors are identical. Glockworx has made a few different ones.

At least four GW versions.

[MarkCO]

Yes, it could be a connector difference. More likely you are just dealing with the tolerance differences, and maype ven some stack-up. Glocks from specimen to specimen have (relatively) large variations. Given the original design, no big deal. When you start tuning triggers, it can be a huge deal. Therein lies some of the benefit of triggers such as the Vanek and ZEV, they allow adjustment, granted in varying amounts.

I've tuned a trigger right down to the edge, 1.3 pounds in one G35. Took all the parts out and put them in another frame and it would not even function. With the same parts all tuned, I could not get that second gun under 2.1 pounds. I set to work with calipers and micrometers, even some macro photogrammetry and 4 different G22 frames. The variations I discovered were shocking, and telling. Glocks might all look alike, but dimensionally, they are WAY more unique than their steel framed counterparts. Not knocking it, just stating it since it is probably what you are having issues with.

[Black Dog]

High praise for MarkCO`s post, first time anyone has to my knowledge done a scientific approach to the large ( IMO ) variations from new gun to new gun within the same Gen. and model range and even relative recent dates range.

I tuned 5 of my own NIB Gen. 3 G19s starting in 2002, just the usual polish job on the OEM trigger bar and the 5#. OEM connector. Installed a reduced power striker spring with a Lighting Strike Ti. striker & safety plunger. That`s it. I do not lie when I say the result on the first gun was a crisp 3 1/2 lbs break that felt like a tuned 1911 trigger. Thinking this is "EASY !" ( actually I was lucky ) I tried the same on a 2004 G19 and could not get close to the trigger on the first gun, even after several OEM & aftermarket trigger bars and connector combinations. On the last 3 Gen. 3`s in 2008-2010 I've gotten somewhat closer, interestingly with trying many different OEM parts and steel OEM striker combos. No aftermarket stuff came as close as the OEM parts.

IMHO the large variations are due to the fact that Glock uses several different sources for the trigger bars and connectors, maybe the slides, and perhaps even different manufacturing lines for the frames.

[MarkCO]

IMHO the large variations are due to the fact that Glock uses several different sources for the trigger bars and connectors, maybe the slides, and perhaps even different manufacturing lines for the frames.

Injection molding has a large part to do with the variation. It would be shocking if there was one cavity and so unless you happen to get two from the same cavity, even then the pre and post processing must be the same. Just not going to be close tolerance this way. I've not undertaken the same approach to M&Ps, XDs, or any other polymer frame pistol, but the larger the frame, the more the variation I would expect. I have no idea of your theory is true one way or the other.

[Joe D]

I have gotten Glock triggers as light as 1 lb. Just remember you are dealing with stamped and molded parts. Many have asked if I would sell my trigger bars. Answer is still no. Each part must be fitted. What works in one gun may not work in another.

[JBP55]

I am one that has asked and I would still like to try one of your tuned trigger bars.

[calishootr]

i prepped 2 ghost rockets the same and dropped em in, the one went in with monor mods to it, the other hadto have a lot more done to it...and shocking(insert tongue in cheek) i have two different trigger pulls, 1 is slightly better than the other, both are serviceable for my needs, like MarkCo said, with imjection moldings andstamped parts,there is a LOT of variation from one gun tothe next