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Steel frame Glock for open?


bthp

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I've been reading some of the threads related to open GLocks. Most seemed to relate to the standard Glock frame. Wouldn't the CCF Frame work well for open? I primarily shoot limited/tactical 3gun, but I have thought about trying 3gun open. I shoot a G34 w/ a Vanek trigger, so it seems that the steel frame. Would be great with the VAnek trigger.

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Ive got two of those inhouse and had the same thoughts. After talking to the folks at CCF as well as other places they are hanging on the rack.

The frame is HEAVY, once you put a slide on it even heavier. Comparing the assembled gun to my S_I its almost 9 oz's heavier. Heavy isn't always bad.

The biggest concern is that the slide will tear the hell out of the frame after a while - something about the hardness of the slide (cant recall exactly). An aluminum version will trash even faster.

The folks at CCF recommend (STRONGLY) only using factory Glock barrels. As for the trigger in the frame, I have Vanek triggers and yes they do work far better (crisper) in a non flexing frame.

Call the folks at CCF and talk with them - they laid out everything about the frames and what to use and not use.

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smile.gif

It turns out that no one has produced a better Glock frame than Glock. mellow.gif

In all seriousness, >I< would resist the temptation of "channeling" a 2011 with a Glock.

I've been shooting an Open G17 a good while now. I works because it's not 'much' more than

a G17 with a fitted match grade barrel and carefully assembled Major 9 ammo.

Jim

Edited by Jman
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I would not recommend it. In Open division I've shot a Tanfo, a Caspian HiCap, a very racy G17, and an STI - usually owned 2/more of those at the same time, allowing side-by-side comparison. The least expensive overall to buy: the used STI that I shoot now.

The CCF frame has many problems. Biggest ones are failure to extract and locking blocks that shatter into several pieces.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86803

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87661

Another thing to consider is no matter how well a person shoots a Glock, the #1 thing they are usually working to manage is the trigger. Compared to a 1911/2011 it's a lot to deal with: longer travel, longer reset, moves in a long arc not a short strait line, trigger face is curved from side to side & from top to bottom. All of that makes it tougher to pull the trigger straight back in a short amount of time with minimal upset to your sight alignment on the target. Saying that as the owner of one of the nicest Glock triggers ever, 19 ounces with bare minimum of travel to work the safeties.

Also there's a great chance that you, like me & most other shooters, just physically can't shoot max-speed splits as fast with the Glock as you can with a 2011. That's a minor deal in Production [no single-action guns unless you count the XD], bigger deal in LTD, huge deal in Open. Often you are trying to go SO fast at short range in Open that a string of 8 shots done slower than your STI buddies hurts you, badly. Even with tighter targets, the groups you can nail at 15-25 yards, in Open, will probably be better with a 2011. Up to you.

Edited by eric nielsen
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Thanks guys for the informative responses. I'll give CCF a call on Monday to see what they have to say about the frame. Based on the responses, it seems that the steel frame isn't such a good idea. I like my G34 so well, maybe I'll just buy a top end conversion.

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I've been shooting a G35 limited gun with the stainless frame for several years with no issues. The trigger pull with the Vanek setup is even better with the CCF frame. I combined a G24C upper bought on this forum with the steel lower to create my Frankenglock G24. My 16 yr old is going to try open this year, and had no problems handling major power loads when it was a limited gun.

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at one time (may still be doing it ) CCF was sending people to SJC for mill work to get the guns working in Open. John Nagel has been shooting one at our club for a couple years now without any issues.

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Thanks for the additional opinions on the steel frame. So, maybe these things can be made to work. It still seems odd that they would make (and sell) a frame that gets battered so badly as some of the threads indicate.

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In talking with the factory, the recommendations were an 18 lb recoil spring, the factory barrel, which the CCF locking block was designed to work with, and a shock buffer. Knock on wood it shoots flawlessly with this combination, though shock buffs need to be changed periodically. My son absolutely loves this gun, so now I need to buy another one for me.

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