Another 930 Turkey turned popper slayer

[stumpy1972]

Stumpy,

I just ordered a 24" non-porter barrel from Mossberg. It took a little over 7 weeks to get it. Just make sure you speak with Edna Perez. She is top notch and knows all about these barrels. She will also communicate any delays that may come up.

7 WEEKS! I guess they have to custom make one for you? I'll give her a ring and order one but I have a 3 gun coming up on the 19th so I'll have to come up with something to cover my ports until the 7 weeks goes by :-) Thanks for all the help fellas!

Just talked to Edna, may barrel will be here in a week! SWEET! She said they are manufactuting quite a few of that particular special barrel to meet high demands. Thanks everyone for all your help. I'll get some pics up when it arrives.

[ben b.]

I just got my barrel. Edna was away when I called and Linda told me those barrels wouldn't be made anymore because buyers went crazy buying them and it got out of hand. Gee whiz...Called back for Edna again and left a message, and she placed my order. Had my 24" un-ported, front/rear FO sighted barrel about 2 weeks later.

[stumpy1972]

I just got my barrel. Edna was away when I called and Linda told me those barrels wouldn't be made anymore because buyers went crazy buying them and it got out of hand. Gee whiz...Called back for Edna again and left a message, and she placed my order. Had my 24" un-ported, front/rear FO sighted barrel about 2 weeks later.

Sounds like the Mossy service reps need to get together and decide which answer is correct, "no non-ported barrels" or "sure we can send you one right away!" I'm just thankful Edna was there when I called... :-)

[ben b.]

I agree, and Edna is a super resource for Enos-ites, but you gotta love the "Those sold too fast so we stopped making them" attitude of Linda.

[stumpy1972]

A shocking abuse of power :-)

[CBags04]

I agree, and Edna is a super resource for Enos-ites, but you gotta love the "Those sold too fast so we stopped making them" attitude of Linda.

Most certainly. Edna is awesome.

[Nuke8401]

Just a few things I learned while prepping my 930 for a match.

- My mag follower was occasionally hanging up in the tube at the transition between the stock tube and the Nordic +5.

- My stock follower had some really sharp edges on the leading edge so I worked it to remove them and put a slight bevel on the leading edge.

- When I first installed the Nordic spring a just cut it to length and installed it. Cutting the spring without bending the end results in the tip of the spring pushing on one side of the follower cocking it in the tube. I bent the spring so that while compressing it the follower stays straight.

- The transition between the Nordic and stock tube; the Nordic is tapered and fits over the stock tube so the follower and ammo have to pass over the lip of the stock tube as rounds go from the Nordic tube to the stock tube to the receiver, I beveled the stock tube to smooth out this transition.

- As other have done I cut the loading port to a semi-circle on the mag side and took the sharp edges off the lifter making it much easier to make sure the shells go in to catch the shell stop without having to insert your thumb into the receiver/mag tube.

While practicing my weak hand reloads I noticed that to empty the chamber and load another shell I had to firmly cycle the bolt for the shell stop to release the next shell to load. Not sure if all 930s are like this but mine takes a firm cycle to work. It has never failed when shooting however.

David E.

[promod1385]

Nuke

Did you get the regular Nordic barrel clamp or the clamp for thick walled barrels?

I am ordering my 930 tomm and picking up the Nordic pieces this weekend!

[Nuke8401]

Did you get the regular Nordic barrel clamp or the clamp for thick walled barrels?

No clue, at the time I'm not sure there was more than one option. Because of the port covers I used I did have to take some material off the tube side of the clamp. I just wrapped the barrel with fine emery cloth and installed the clamp loosely and honed the clamp for a good fit. I left the finish on the clamp rough so it would not slide. So far, so good.

David E.

[promod1385]

Sounds good how thick is the shim stock material you used?

[Nuke8401]

I don't know the thickness; I got it by walking into a local machine shop and asking if I could buy a small piece. The guy offered me several choices and I picked one of the thinnest. It’s not thin like aluminum foil but easily bendable with 2 fingers. I got a PM from someone who said they used 0.01" shim stock.

So I don't think it is critical as long as the clamp fits well.

David E.

[Artsville]

Hey Nuke.....

quick question....about to go this route but i looked up your model number on mossberg's site. It states this is a 28" barrel. So i am curious now how long it really is?

Also how is barrel length actually measured? Did you buy the extended chokes or flush?

art

[Nuke8401]

Art,

Mossberg’s documentation is not the best but:

I just measured my barrel and from the receiver to the end of the barrel its 23 3/8".

My model number is 85235. I picked this one because it is a plain black synthetic stock, 24” gun with a FO front sight. When I ordered mine I wasn’t sure what I was getting until I opened the box. Mossberg could do better in this area.

If you go to Mossberg’s web page http://www.mossberg.com/products/default.asp?id=10&section=products and scroll through the 930s at the top of the page, when you get to 85235 it is listed as a 24".

If you download their catalog, on pg C50, the 85235 is listed as a 24" also.

I use extended chokes because they can be installed without a wrench. With the +6 mag tube & flush choke tubes, the cheap/short wrenches hit the mag tube so you are turning them 1/4 turn at a time. With extended chokes the mag tube still extends past the extended choke about 3/4" so when dumping the gun in a barrel it lands on the mag tube not the choke/barrel.

David E.

[Artsville]

Art,

Mossberg’s documentation is not the best but:

I just measured my barrel and from the receiver to the end of the barrel its 23 3/8".

My model number is 85235. I picked this one because it is a plain black synthetic stock, 24” gun with a FO front sight. When I ordered mine I wasn’t sure what I was getting until I opened the box. Mossberg could do better in this area.

If you go to Mossberg’s web page http://www.mossberg.com/products/default.asp?id=10&section=products and scroll through the 930s at the top of the page, when you get to 85235 it is listed as a 24".

If you download their catalog, on pg C50, the 85235 is listed as a 24" also.

I use extended chokes because they can be installed without a wrench. With the +6 mag tube & flush choke tubes, the cheap/short wrenches hit the mag tube so you are turning them 1/4 turn at a time. With extended chokes the mag tube still extends past the extended choke about 3/4" so when dumping the gun in a barrel it lands on the mag tube not the choke/barrel.

David E.

way cool thnx.....

[promod1385]

Hey Nuke

I read you paid $15-$20 for your screw in choke tubes. What brand are they and where did you get them? My 930 should be here today! Cant wait to get myself some chokes and go shoot some sporting clays with it!

[Artsville]

I use extended chokes because they can be installed without a wrench. With the +6 mag tube & flush choke tubes, the cheap/short wrenches hit the mag tube so you are turning them 1/4 turn at a time.

David E.

order the shotgun...in waiting now.........so reviewing your thread and in the first part of the thread you mentions a +5 nordic....but then later you mentioned a +6 nordic. Was that a typo or did you switch it out for more capacity?

Art

[Nuke8401]

I read you paid $15-$20 for your screw in choke tubes. What brand are they and where did you get them? My 930 should be here today! Cant wait to get myself some chokes and go shoot some sporting clays with it!

I originally bought one Carlson's flush choke tube and had 2 others from another gun.

I recently bought 2 extended tubes, again Carlson's, and I believe they were $30 each from Cabelas.

order the shotgun...in waiting now.........so reviewing your thread and in the first part of the thread you mentions a +5 Nordic....but then later you mentioned a +6 Nordic. Was that a typo or did you switch it out for more capacity?

Art

I switched from a +5 to a +6 for 3 reasons:

1. The +6 allows more loading flexibility in outlaw matches where capacity is not limited after the buzzer.

- On a stage where you have to take a few steps before the first shot you can load two shells bringing you to 10+1.

- On a stage where you shoot 2 or 3 shots and then move you can load four.

- having 10+1 is just more flexible and doesn't change the overall length of the gun by much and it makes the mag tube about 3/4" longer than the barrel with an extended tube. I would rather dump my gun and hit the mag than the choke tip. Flexibility in loading the shotgun is a big deal to me; more capacity allows me to lose track of shots a little and still load 4 almost anytime.

2. Less spring pressure when loaded to 8. This helps hand cycling the first round on an empty chamber start.

3. Less spring pressure for loading shells 1-8. As you reach the mag capacity the spring pressure goes up and loading speed goes down.

I'm going to keep my +5 and put it on a backup gun.

David E.

Edited December 27, 2011 by Nuke8401

[mont1120]

Being new to the 3 gun competition, I am looking at buying the Mossberg with the 24 in barrel, and have three questions. Why cover up the porting, is this a requirement in 3 gun, or does it help the shooter? Second, I keep hearing the need to "weld" the lifter, can anyone show a before and after picture to show what was done, the why is pretty specific.

And finally, I note that many of the new out of the box shotguns for 3 gun like the Bennelli and the Mossberg all have barrels at the 18.5-20 inch lenght. Is there any advantage to the shorter barrel, limiting the mag to 8 rounds seems counterproductive. I know one can add a longer mag tube then the barrel, but I would thinmk balance would be effected.

[Nuke8401]

Why cover up the porting, is this a requirement in 3 gun, or does it help the shooter?

Ports put you in "Open" Class

I keep hearing the need to "weld" the lifter,

With the 930, opening the loading port forward is a option to a welded lifter.

I note that many of the new out of the box shotguns for 3 gun like the Bennelli and the Mossberg all have barrels at the 18.5-20 inch length. Is there any advantage to the shorter barrel, limiting the mag to 8 rounds seems counterproductive. I know one can add a longer mag tube then the barrel, but I would think balance would be effected.

With screw in chokes barrel length is not a big issue, 18 1/2, 20, 22, 24 are all OK. Each gun is different but I would not be surprised if a 18 1/2 barrel needed more choke for the same pattern than a 24" barrel.

Magazine capacity is a personal choice, nothing wrong with having a mag tube longer than the barrel. As far as balance?? A shorter barrel would/could compensate for a longer mag tube and decrease the overall gun weight with no adverse effects.

Just my 2 cents.

David E.

[TMC]

Second, I keep hearing the need to "weld" the lifter, can anyone show a before and after picture to show what was done, the why is pretty specific.

Lifters are "welded" to extent them to close the gap between the end of the lifter and the front of the loading port. On a Benelli, and the Mossberg when you cut the port back, that gap will trap you thumb nail resulting in severe pain when you try to pull it out. You can get about that by training yourself to keep you thumb bent and push the shell in with the tip of your thumb rather than the larger pad area which is most intuitive.

I don't have before pictures but this is the "after" of the lifter I did.

[mont1120]

Thanks for the replies, they are really helpful. I don't wan to compete in the open class, and I sure can see why you would want the weld job now, the fork on the end could really borrow somw skin at a rather bad time.

[Nuke8401]

I think if you polled the number of 930 shooters that had welded lifters and which just opened the loading port forward you might see that the welded lifter choice is more of a carryover from other shotgun types.

Compare the photo in post #12 of this thread to post #45. Post 12 the port opening is much larger and the thumb is not easily trapped with an unwelded lifter. Also opening the port more forward allows you to load without sticking your thumb deep in the mag tube to make the shell catch the shell latch so you can load with a straighter thumb vice pointing it into the mag well. You can knock the sharp corners off the lifter.

One last thing, load your mag tube, empty chamber, bolt closed, push the bolt release. You will most likely have a double feed. Could you clear the double feed with a welded lifter? No because the transition between the shells is covered, not the case with an unwelded lifter, you can push the second shell back into the mag tube with a knife/pocket tool and keep going which may lead to a better score than just stopping.

Double feeds are rare.

It's all about choices.

David E.

Edited January 4, 2012 by Nuke8401

[TYLAG DS]

Here's a few questions related to the welded lifter modification and the shotgun in general:

1) Rather than welding extra material onto the elevator (lifter) to fill in the space between the two ends would it be more feasible to remove the two forks from the end, rounding the end and leaving the elevator (lifter) slightly shorter so as not to pinch whatever finger is loading rounds? Would shortening it affect the functionality?

2) Has anyone had any problems with your 930 Turkey model being ammo-finicky? Mine only seems to cycle reliably if I feed it hotter loads like 1350+ fps bird loads or slugs. The lower speed stuff either fails to fully eject and re-chambers the spent shell, or it ejects the spent shell but does not chamber the new round. The hotter loads function flawlessly, but I'd rather spend less money on standard ammo if I can diagnose the problem.

[ben b.]

Here's a few questions related to the welded lifter modification and the shotgun in general:

1) Rather than welding extra material onto the elevator (lifter) to fill in the space between the two ends would it be more feasible to remove the two forks from the end, rounding the end and leaving the elevator (lifter) slightly shorter so as not to pinch whatever finger is loading rounds? Would shortening it affect the functionality?

2) Has anyone had any problems with your 930 Turkey model being ammo-finicky? Mine only seems to cycle reliably if I feed it hotter loads like 1350+ fps bird loads or slugs. The lower speed stuff either fails to fully eject and re-chambers the spent shell, or it ejects the spent shell but does not chamber the new round. The hotter loads function flawlessly, but I'd rather spend less money on standard ammo if I can diagnose the problem.

1) I'd also like to know an answer to this good question.

2) If a wood stocked 930 Field model with a turkey barrel is equivalent, then no, mine runs everything so far.

Edited January 8, 2012 by ben b.

[Outsydlooknin75]

Instead of welding my lifter I opened it up just to knock the two edges off each side and make the radius go from side to side completely.

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