Mushy 1911 trigger reset

[Pro2AInPA]

I have an STI Spartan and I'm not happy with the trigger rest. It never fails to reset but it's anything but crisp. As a matter of fact, there's no "click" at all, felt or heard. I hate it and want to fix it. Suggestions?

[ParaGunner]

Try a new disconnector or a new sear spring.

[soaringf22]

trying bending the sear spring inwards some, the two on the left specifically. sometimes typical of poor trigger job and going overboard on a light trigger, moving up 3/4lb might make all the difference you need and doing that by the sear spring. just a suggetion to try before spending money.

[ck1]

This thread gave me some ideas, thanks.

I'm not really new to 1911s but I am a newb to running one as my main platform which is what I'm doing these days...

I got lucky and through some bending-luck I managed to get my Trojan 9mm's pull down to around or below 3lbs without it misbehaving, nice and light, but not the crispest pull and the reset was pretty weak.

After a bit of experimenting with another sear spring I managed to finally get a bit of a grasp on what's going on and managed to produce a trigger that I think works better, albeit heavier.

Just my own layman's terms here but i'm looking at it like this: the leg furthest to the left controls most of your let-off weight, while the middle is mostly reset (but affects break weight sone too), the far-right is for the grip safety. I ended up dialing in my reset first, then got the grip safety in the ballpark, then, finally, got my pull/break about where I wanted it (had to keep it a tad heavier to gain the better reset, but that's ok for me). Ended up around 3-3.5lbs but far more crisp and a way better reset...

Anyways, learned that if your sear and hammer are in the ballpark and in good shape, then that leaf spring can do a whole lot, just don't be afraid to not get it right on the first try, plan on a few tries at least, take it apart as many times as you have to and if you're patient you can get it just about where you want.

Just be sure to test it and put a fair amount of rounds through it to know it's safe before you run it in a match, wouldn't want any embarrassing/dangerous surprises.

Good luck.

Edited February 17, 2011 by ck1

[Pat Miles]

First pull the slide assembly off the gun. Next take all of the fire control parts (trigger, mag release,sear, disconnector, etc.) out of the frame and give them a good cleaning. Clean the frame also. Now drop the trigger only back in the frame and see if it will slide back and forth by itself when you tilt the frame upwards and downwards. If not find out why and take care of the problem. Obviously if the trigger is dragging it will be mushy. If everything moves freely put the gun back together. You can add trigger reset pressure by bending the center leaf of the sear spring inward a bit. This will increase the overall trigger pull somewhat.

Pat

[Singlestack]

First pull the slide assembly off the gun. Next take all of the fire control parts (trigger, mag release,sear, disconnector, etc.) out of the frame and give them a good cleaning. Clean the frame also. Now drop the trigger only back in the frame and see if it will slide back and forth by itself when you tilt the frame upwards and downwards. If not find out why and take care of the problem. Obviously if the trigger is dragging it will be mushy. If everything moves freely put the gun back together. You can add trigger reset pressure by bending the center leaf of the sear spring inward a bit. This will increase the overall trigger pull somewhat.

Pat

+1

When you have it apart with just the trigger in it, tilt the frame with the muzzel to the floor. The trigger should fall foward under it's own weight when you press and release it.

[soaringf22]

This thread gave me some ideas, thanks.

I'm not really new to 1911s but I am a newb to running one as my main platform which is what I'm doing these days...

I got lucky and through some bending-luck I managed to get my Trojan 9mm's pull down to around or below 3lbs without it misbehaving, nice and light, but not the crispest pull and the reset was pretty weak.

After a bit of experimenting with another sear spring I managed to finally get a bit of a grasp on what's going on and managed to produce a trigger that I think works better, albeit heavier.

Just my own layman's terms here but i'm looking at it like this: the leg furthest to the left controls most of your let-off weight, while the middle is mostly reset (but affects break weight sone too), the far-right is for the grip safety. I ended up dialing in my reset first, then got the grip safety in the ballpark, then, finally, got my pull/break about where I wanted it (had to keep it a tad heavier to gain the better reset, but that's ok for me). Ended up around 3-3.5lbs but far more crisp and a way better reset...

Anyways, learned that if your sear and hammer are in the ballpark and in good shape, then that leaf spring can do a whole lot, just don't be afraid to not get it right on the first try, plan on a few tries at least, take it apart as many times as you have to and if you're patient you can get it just about where you want.

Just be sure to test it and put a fair amount of rounds through it to know it's safe before you run it in a match, wouldn't want any embarrassing/dangerous surprises.

Good luck.

Absolutely, lighter isnt always better. smoother crisp, repetitious trigger is what I go for a perfect 4lb trigger is better than an awful 2lb trigger anyday. consistancy is key. and i never met anyone who got a perfect trigger their first try.