Popsmoke Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Hey - I need to add a swaging step in my reloading proces. I use alot of range brass and a most of that stuff causes priming seat problems. (I think it because of the various priming cups and crimps I come across). I currently have a 650 and 550. Is it possible to use the swaging die system that comes with a 1050, on a 650? I currently deprime in a 1 step process using a generic depriming die before cleaning the brass. I deprime everything then clean using wet stainless steel media (brass comes out like new), then I use the clean deprimed brass in a normal loading process. In the first depriming step: Can I add the swaging dies to station 2 of that tool head? Preferably for the 650 for the case feeder. If this is possible can you tell me which parts I'd have to order for 223? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I currently have a 650 and 550. Is it possible to use the swaging die system that comes with a 1050, on a 650? No, I'm sure it's not possible...the two machines work in opposite fashion (1050 toolhead moves to the shellplate). You'll have to look at something like the Super Swage Dillon sells. Depriming before cleaning brass is really a wasted step...especially if you're using range brass (which tells me you're not doing 500+ yard precision shooting with it). The only thing it really gives you is clean primer pockets, which don't mean anything until you're doing precision work, and mixed brass will throw more variation in there than slightly different primer seating will. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popsmoke Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 My line of thinking is that in order to swage the primer pocket something must be underneath the shell plate. I am not familiar with how this works on a 1050, so I dont know. I am thinking I need a 1050 and am trying to talk my self out of it. I dont usually use my AR for >500 yds, kudos to those that do. Mostly for less than 400, and when I do I use segregated brass with Sierra 77's. For my less than 200 yd plinking, range brass with 55 grain bullets are a great way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 this just got brought up about week ago. check down in the reloading section under the Dillon reloading equipment subforum. long story short, on the 1050 a rod drops down inside the case to back up the swaging operation. without that rod, you'd risk having the case's rim getting ripped off. supposedly you can use the chamfering tool to ream out the crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 My line of thinking is that in order to swage the primer pocket something must be underneath the shell plate. I am not familiar with how this works on a 1050, so I dont know. I am thinking I need a 1050 and am trying to talk my self out of it. I dont usually use my AR for >500 yds, kudos to those that do. Mostly for less than 400, and when I do I use segregated brass with Sierra 77's. For my less than 200 yd plinking, range brass with 55 grain bullets are a great way to go. The 1050 has a die mounted in the toolhead that goes inside the case, and supports the inside of the head. It looks sort of like huge decapping pin. That keeps the case stable, and then a ram from below with the swage pin on it raises up through the shell plate to swage the primer pocket.....very similar to a priming system. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Wayne Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 "If this is possible can you tell me which parts I'd have to order for 223?" The above posters are correct. I'd sell the 650 and buy the 1050 and not look back. There's not any other choices that don't increase your labor a great deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 (edited) There's not any other choices that don't increase your labor a great deal. +1 I get given alot of WCC 9mm brass for free and it's crimped. When it snows I work on it. I deprime it then chuck up a pocket reamer in a drill. Man is it time consuming! But I must enjoy it because I really don't need the brass. But it's free! Edited January 30, 2011 by Sarge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bello Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 There's not any other choices that don't increase your labor a great deal. +1 I get given alot of WCC 9mm brass for free and it's crimped. When it snows I work on it. I deprime it then chuck up a pocket reamer in a drill. Man is it time consuming! But I must enjoy it because I really don't need the brass. But it's free! ill def buy that WCC brass unswaged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mds131s Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 The dillon swage is an awesome machine and would recommend it. As mentioned above it is not possible to add this stage to the other machines. I would recommend the 1050 have one and would not look back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popsmoke Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Thanks - I just ordered a 1050 and the video. Happy Reloading, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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