Popsmoke

Thanks for the tips. I polished the inside of the hopper with a Dremel felt tip. It got pretty smooth and shiny and it seems to help. I think I am going to take it apart again and get the polish to mirror finish and add the car wax step. I am going to polish the powder bar too, and attach a anti static wire. I will post an update in a day or 2 to chart progress.

Thanks, Please send the update when you can, How did you accomplish the polishing? With a Dremel tool, or cloth?? Popsmoke

I have 3 Dillons, 550, 650, and a S1050. I have problems obtaining a good powder throw. I use Varget for my 308's and the throw can vary by as much as .4 . Has anybody here found the same problem and a solution? Please don't try to tell me that that much of a powder variance is tolerable, I'm not buying. Are there any work-arounds at all?

THe ability to stop primer feeding on the 650. A BETTER POWDER THROWER.

I deprime on the 550. Then wet tumble with SS media. Then, Resize and prime on the 550. then, measure and trim then, fill with a Chargemaster, then, either Seat and crimp on the 550 with Dillon dies or Seat on a single stage with Redding Precision dies, then crimp on the 550. I've have not seen any major variance in Ogive to base length (OOAL), but the with Redding die runout is about .001, and with the Dillon it is usually less than .003

Mine did that too, I found that I had it turned around the wrong way. Very perplexing, Ensure the logo is toward you.

I had a problem something like this. This is going to be technical, so hang on... Check that plastic ski ramp thingy on the shell slider tray. The plastic part that when you pull the handle, it moves the brass toward the shell plate holder. The ski ramp side makes contact with a rod that activates it and moves it forward. There are two ramped sides to that part, a steep side and a not so steep side. You can turn these around to adjust the timing of of how long it takes for shell slider arm to move the brass onto the shell plate holder. I have to turn this around when switching from rifle to pistol. I keep the long ski ramp side making contact with the rod for rifle.

I use two methods on determining OAL: 1st - measure the overall length with calipers. I feel this isnt too accurate, because the tip of a bullet nose can vary with shipping, drops, and manufacturing variances. This method is useful for determining if a shell will fit into a magazine. 2nd - use a bullet comparator nut. This wont measure true overall length, but what I call Ogive Overall Length. It measures from a repeatable place on each bullet with out regard for the quality of the nose. This method is useful for comparing one shell to another, and more importantly, when optimizing length for bullet jump to the lands in your specific rifle.

..get off an escalator and stop to look around, leaving oncoming folks to plow in .. walk backwards on a sidewalk, beware the diagonal backwards. ..eat with their mouth open .. chew gum loudly, especially in movie theatres ..spit ..mistreat animals i have many more.

I have a 550, 650, and a 1050, plus a Forster single stage. I use the 550 for my 308. I use the 650 for 9mm, and bulk depriming of 223 and 308. I use the 1050 for 223. I got the 223 primarily for the swager because I use alot of range brass a good portion of which is crimped. Now I dont have priming problems. I like the 1050 over the 650 primarily because I wont waste a primer when there is no shell present. Dillon - here's how to make a PERFECT machine: Start with a 650, add a swager like on the 1050, change the primer system to the 1050 style. Do this and there will never be a need for any other reloader.

I just bought a 1050 and am looking forward to not dealing with crimped primer pockets. I use alot of range brass, and crimped primers is a real problem. I plan on using it primarily for 223 and 9mm. I also have a 650 and 550. I suspect I will be letting the 650 go after a while, and keeping the 550 due to its sheer simplicity. But I love reloading, and this is great. Many thanks to all those who answered my many questions. Popsmoke

Thanks - I just ordered a 1050 and the video. Happy Reloading,

I currently have a 550 and 650, and I think I need the 1050. I need it because I use alot of range brass and swager seem like it will solve alot problems I am encountering with seating primers. My question is, how hard is it really to change caliber on that machine? I dont think changing calibers on the 650 is a big deal and I do it all the time. Is it much more complex and time consuming than that. If its just replacing parts, thats easy, but if its adjust timing then that more subjective. I load mostly 9mm and 223 so the primers are of the small variety and I dont need to mess with the primer assembly on my 2 machines. Also, the timing is pretty similar between a 550 and 650 for my 2 calibers. and - Is there any mounting considerations? My table is pretty heavy duty, fine for my 2 presses on 3/4 plywood screwed to a 2x4 frame, it barely move the bench when cranking. Do I need to have a piece of sheet metal cut to fortify the base even more? Thanks, Popsmoke

Update - I just happened to have the Hornady Headspace Gages on my shelf, don't know why I didn't think to use them, but thats another post - I have too much stuff. I found that the difference between cases where the bolt will close and those where the bolt wont close is about .012 to .020. On my 550 using Dillon carbide dies, I threaded the FL Resizing Die right down to the shell plate plus 1/8 turn, I can feel the die hit the shell plate when pull the handle (just a wee bit), and this seems to have solved the problem. All brass that once didn't cycle now cycles fine. I just find it suspicious that I have to bring that resizing die down to the shell place plus 1/8 to where it touches the shellplate. On my single stage Forester press using FL Redding dies - I have to bring the die right to the shell plate too. But the Dillon seems do a better job, it sets the brass back a bit more. I have a Wilson Headspace Gage on order from Midway. Any thoughts on why I have to bring the resizing die right to the plate get it right? Thanks,

Thanks guys for the replies. I was just in the shop checking out the dies and shells and am perplexed with this problem. I have the resizing die screwed all the down and back about a half turn. I checked OAL and outside dimensions. I cant get a clear read to the thousandth on the setback. If I have the resizing die screwed down all the way, wouldn't that make the shell small enough to chamber fully? I will check out the links you all sent me, thanks.

I am loading 308 on a 550. I am noticing that some of brass will not chamber in my bolt action ie: the bolt will not close on it, and sometimes jams up an AR10 type rifle. I suspect that the cases are not being sized correctly, that the shoulder/case is growing longer and needs to be shortened. Is this a matter of trimming the case or screwing the die down, or both? Trimming the case back to spec is easy, I have a case trimmer. The hard question is: how much do I screw the FL Sizing Die down to get into spec? And what are the other implications? Thanks,

My line of thinking is that in order to swage the primer pocket something must be underneath the shell plate. I am not familiar with how this works on a 1050, so I dont know. I am thinking I need a 1050 and am trying to talk my self out of it. I dont usually use my AR for >500 yds, kudos to those that do. Mostly for less than 400, and when I do I use segregated brass with Sierra 77's. For my less than 200 yd plinking, range brass with 55 grain bullets are a great way to go.

Hey - I need to add a swaging step in my reloading proces. I use alot of range brass and a most of that stuff causes priming seat problems. (I think it because of the various priming cups and crimps I come across). I currently have a 650 and 550. Is it possible to use the swaging die system that comes with a 1050, on a 650? I currently deprime in a 1 step process using a generic depriming die before cleaning the brass. I deprime everything then clean using wet stainless steel media (brass comes out like new), then I use the clean deprimed brass in a normal loading process. In the first depriming step: Can I add the swaging dies to station 2 of that tool head? Preferably for the 650 for the case feeder. If this is possible can you tell me which parts I'd have to order for 223? Thanks,

I currently have a 550 and a 650. Why would I need a 1050 over the 650 - what advantage does the 8 station press have? I mean I see the obvious use of hooking up a electric trimmer and a swager - but what are the circumstances where one would say - "Man, this 650 just isnt cutting it - I need a 1050" I mean - maybe I need a 1050 and dont know it !? This is a serious question.

I just did it, was (am) having problems getting primers to in 223. They are crushing and going in crooked. Was working on this for a while and just as my wife comes downstairs to call me for dinner and, BANG!. The timing couldn't have been more perfect. Just one primer blew as is crushed into the brass, no damage, the pop is similar to a small firecraker. Was wearing eye pro. My wife asks "You cant shoot your self with that machine can you?"

Thanks for the thoughtful replys, I will tinker with the shell plate a bit. Popsmoke

I am a new 650 user, but I've had a 550 for a while. I use assorted range brass, cleaned to new condition, primer pockets included, with stainless steel media. The brass is spotless and pristine. I pocket ream SOME of the brass that I can quickly identify as having a crimp in the depriming stage. Problem: My new 650 crushes about 1 in 5 primers, they are uneven and sometime smeared to one side. I have disassembled and cleaned the plates, verified the shell holder. Not sure about the primer ram. I have checked a batch that I pocket reamed every shell and it still happened. Any suggestions?

Graham - I didnt understand your first reply, thanks, it makes sense but not sure if I want to go through that much of a process. GoHuskers - For 55 grain bullets: I like flat based 223 because I found they are ALOT more accurate at up to 200 yds. I have not tried them any farther. I get about 1-1.5 MOA on my AR with them. I cant find boat tails that shoot that well, and that inlcudes Sierrra 55's and other variety's.

Graham - thats not a bad idea, but the bell would be taken out with the resizing die on 550 press, - I'd have to do it on the 5 station press and leave out the powder check die. I process in 3 steps - Step one: deprime dirty brass with a generic decapping die Step two: clean with stainless steel media. Step three: proceed as usual with loading clean brass.

I dont champfer, just clean and reload. I primarily shoot flat base, I found I get better accuracy than a boat tail. I was hoping there was some sort of Dillon powder die that bells case mouths. Thanks