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Seating Primers


JFlowers

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On occasion, I am getting bent rims from the shellholder while deep seating primers. Not many, but one every now and then. Is this a problem others experience or am I doing something wrong?

Note - this is deep seating Federals for a Carmoney 625, not seating primers for normal ammo.

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On occasion, I am getting bent rims from the shellholder while deep seating primers. Not many, but one every now and then. Is this a problem others experience or am I doing something wrong?

Note - this is deep seating Federals for a Carmoney 625, not seating primers for normal ammo.

JFlowers, What exactly do you mean with bent rims? A pic if kpossible may help me understand. I cain't read writin but I can read pikshurs... :rolleyes: Later rdd

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Ram Prime in a single stage press.

Hey James,

I ran across this with my Rcbs Pardner single stage where I did not notice that the rims were visibly bent but you could definitely see shellholder marks on the case rim. Maybe switch to a hornady or lee hand primer? Or ease off on the seating stroke a little???

Regards,

Forrest

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If you're hitting either the primer pocket edge or showing the ram profile on the primer, then you need to adjust the shellplate indexing and the little arm that holds the case in the shellplate at station #2, if we're talking a 650. My primers might slightly favor one side or the other of the pocket, but anything else is unacceptable.

H.

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The old Lee engineering single primer jobs get a plus 100 rating in my book. I squeeze the lever or leaver depending on your preference all the way and it seats the heck out of the primer to the point where my tinkertoy hammer strikes will set them off.

SO since we're on the topic all you handseaters please chime in and describe how you combine this with a progressive press?

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+1 on the Lee hand primer. My 625 is a Randy Lee and needs the below flush Fed primers, too.

The hand press gives a good feel for when they're seated and leaves no indents on the primer or other marks on the case.

Forrest, I load on a progressive. Casefeeder sends case to deprime and from there to empty prime station. The case gets kicked out at the powder station, before dropping the charge. I usually do 300-500 at a time.

THEN I HANDPRIME THEM ALL.

The primed cases go back into the casefeeder, and I take the deprime die out for the cartridge assembly part.

From there on it's smooth sailing. With the decapper and the priming setup out, I run the cases like any "normal" progressive press.

Voila!

Edited by Team Amish 1
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I have a single stage setup in my office. So I write code, setup test runs, and while the computer churns, I decap my 45 GAP brass. Once I have all the brass decapped, I set it up to prime. Then I take the primed brass out to the shop and run them through my 550 with no die in the first hole. My FTF's have stopped. I guess I just need to get more use to the feel of seating the primers and the stray bent rims will cease.

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+1 on the Lee hand primer. My 625 is a Randy Lee and needs the below flush Fed primers, too.

The hand press gives a good feel for when they're seated and leaves no indents on the primer or other marks on the case.

Forrest, I load on a progressive. Casefeeder sends case to deprime and from there to empty prime station. The case gets kicked out at the powder station, before dropping the charge. I usually do 300-500 at a time.

THEN I HANDPRIME THEM ALL.

The primed cases go back into the casefeeder, and I take the deprime die out for the cartridge assembly part.

From there on it's smooth sailing. With the decapper and the priming setup out, I run the cases like any "normal" progressive press.

Voila!

This is exactly what I needed. I had been crunching them on the 550 to get them flush, but now I know better. SO I just pull the brass indexer out and whizbang it's strain lightening time!

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I have a 1050 and no matter what, that primer is going to make it to .007" below flush. Sometimes they have a very noticiable depression and I have never had any sort of ignition problems.

Lee

Lee

I love the 1050 for seating primers. I only hand seat just to be sure for big matches. I have no problem running them the way that they come off the press. You said "no matter what, that primer is going to make it to .007" below flush", I'm just checking to see if you know that the primer depth is adjustable on the 1050, I have talked to a few that own 1050's and they didn't know that.

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I have a 1050 and no matter what, that primer is going to make it to .007" below flush. Sometimes they have a very noticiable depression and I have never had any sort of ignition problems.

Lee

Lee

I love the 1050 for seating primers. I only hand seat just to be sure for big matches. I have no problem running them the way that they come off the press. You said "no matter what, that primer is going to make it to .007" below flush", I'm just checking to see if you know that the primer depth is adjustable on the 1050, I have talked to a few that own 1050's and they didn't know that.

Yes, I have it set that way on my .40 toolhead because I only load .40 ammo for my Carmoney revolver. What I was meaning was even if it went in sideways, it goes in to a depth of the setting. Sometimes they are badly creased or rippled, but I have never seen any problems with these.

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