DogmaDog Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Two questions relating to the EGW U die in .40. I've done a search and seen some relevant info, but no direct answers to these questions: 1) Will I encounter problems using the EGW U die and hardcast lead bullets to load .40 (since the die sizes .001" smaller than spec, and the bullets are .001" larger than jacketed)? 2) Do you find that using the "U" die increases the force needed to cycle the case through the powder drop station, because the casing fits more tightly on the powder funnel and is hard to push on/pull off? If so, what's the solution? I do lubricate my cases, but not the insides (and I don't think I'd want to). Thanks for your help, DogmaDog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry White Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Dogma, I have loaded a few lead bullets (200 or so) useing the lee u die and had no problems. More force is needed on the upstroke to pull the powder funnel back out of the case, makes the machine feel jerky. But when useing glocky once fired brass and they all chamber check it's worth it. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 DogmaDog, Nearly EVERYBODY uses Hornady One-Shot to lube the outside of the cases. (Though, I don't think you want to lube inside.) And, quite a few polish the heck out of the nose of the powder funnel. Lots of people use the U, I haven't seen many problem posted anywhere. Probably worth the $12 (or so) to try it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 DD, Listen to Flex. I think that combo will work fine, but I'm not sure its necessary. I was able to cut down my Dillon die on my bench grinder and I'm having a 100% success rate on getting the bulges out of guppy bellied brass. If you have a very tight chamber, that may well warrant the "U" die. If you have a Dillon die or other brand die, you might want to try the bench grinder for free first. Also (assuming you already have the funnel), Dillon's powder funnels have recently undergone dramatic quality improvements. If you don't have access to a buffer - which is what you really need to polish out the funnel, you might try to exchange your current (if rough) one with a new one from Dillon. I reflexively ran over to my buffing wheel when I got my new powder funnel, but there was nothing to fix. They're simply beautiful now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2299 Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 .... I was able to cut down my Dillon die on my bench grinder and I'm having a 100% success rate on getting the bulges out of guppy bellied brass.... Also (assuming you already have the funnel), Dillon's powder funnels have recently undergone dramatic quality improvements..... EricW, do you remember how much you grinded of your Dillon die? Since I already have a Dillon I have been thinking of doing just what you suggested first before buying a EGW U-size die. Do you know when Dillon changed their funnel? I picked up my last quick change assembly last summer. I wonder if it has the new design. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 N2299, I ground maybe .040-.050" max. Then I cleaned it up on a buffer. My main goal was to get rid of the step between the die and the sizing ring. The one risk is that if you set the die down too far, you will break the sizing ring in short order as it will hit the shellplate. The upshot is, it works, and that it saved me $20. Whether grinding your Dillon die or the EGW die is the correct solution for you is probably most dependent on the size of your chamber. I have no clue when Dillon redid the powder funnels. But, it's a pretty dramatic improvement, and I'm guessing it occurred in the last 12-18 months or so. They used to have visible machine marks and now the expander portion has a mirror finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2299 Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Eric, thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Nearly EVERYBODY uses Hornady One-Shot to lube the outside of the cases. (Though, I don't think you want to lube inside.) I thought that One Shot doesn't contaminate/deactive powder or primers, or are you more concerned about bullet pull, Flex? (Though I asked a professional reloader about lube's effect on bullet pull, and he sorta just shrugged.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 I just don't see any need to have it inside the case. None of the reloading manuals call for it. Powder only on the inside for me. If that doesn't work, then something else is likely not right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Watne Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 I have been going by the advertised claim that One Shot will not contaminate powder or primers. Started using one shot when it first came out. I use loading blocks and hose the cases lightly at a 45 degree angle to the case mouths from about six inches away two directions. This gets almost as much inside the case as outside. After 100,000 plus reloads there has been no problem with contaminated powder. I suppose not many people would put their cases in loading blocks. This must work for rifle too because no stuck cases in many thousands of rounds (10,000+ 223 cases for sure but many more 270, 338, 356, and 30-30). I hit the rifle cases harder but get no dents in the shoulder. I didn't know One Shot was so bad for rifle reloading or I wouldn't have used it for the last ten or fifteen years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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