Brewski Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 I’m curious as to what techniques folks use to chamfer extractors on 625s. Given that the moonclip holds the case rims securely and the extractor push against the moonclip, I see why you can use a very aggressive bevel. But how do you cut the bevel? Can you use a Dremel and a grinding stone, such as the one Dremel makes for sharpening chainsaws? Do you use a Cratex point in a Dremel? Or do you hand cut the bevel with a file and / or stone? I’ve used the file and stone method on K & L frames and it’s a pain – plus I don’t think I do a really good job compared to work I see by folks who know what they’re doing! Thanks, Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 The easiest way is to use the cylinder chamfer tool from Brownell's with the appropriate pilot for the caliber. For moonclip guns you can chamfer with the extractor in place. For rimmed calibers, you can take the extractor out, chamfer and replace extractor. Some like to polish up with dremel and cratex afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewski Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 The easiest way is to use the cylinder chamfer tool from Brownell's with the appropriate pilot for the caliber. For moonclip guns you can chamfer with the extractor in place. For rimmed calibers, you can take the extractor out, chamfer and replace extractor. Some like to polish up with dremel and cratex afterwards. Thanks Toolguy. I've got the Brownells' tool w/guide - won't that cut into the extractor body where the ratchets are? I guess not since you've done this a time or two . OK - I'll give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 Whoa now! Stop right where you are. Toolguy might be using a different tool. I use a 45-degree chamfering reamer (I believe it's a Clymer product I purchased through Brownells), and it absolutely will damage the ratchet lugs if you leave the extractor in place. Besides, if you take too much material off the ends of the extractor points, it can adversely affect the gun's timing. Much better to remove the extractor before chamfering the chambers. It won't make any difference in reloading speed--trust me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 And make sure you use cutting oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewski Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 Whoa now! Stop right where you are. Toolguy might be using a different tool. I use a 45-degree chamfering reamer (I believe it's a Clymer product I purchased through Brownells), and it absolutely will damage the ratchet lugs if you leave the extractor in place. Besides, if you take too much material off the ends of the extractor points, it can adversely affect the gun's timing. Much better to remove the extractor before chamfering the chambers. It won't make any difference in reloading speed--trust me. Thanks Mike! Not to worry - I assembled my chamfering tool (which is a 45 degree cutter w/ brass pilot for chamfering .45 ACP cylinders)and inserted it into a chamber. Sure enough it contacts the extractor ratchets with cutting teeth so I stopped and thought "Hmmmm...I bet Warren is using another cutting tool. After all, he is the Toolguy". So you don't chamfer/ bevel the extractor edge at all and your reloads are fine? I'm thinking you need to at least break the edge...yes? Or maybe no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 I really don't think it matters. If it makes you feel better, break the edges. Just be careful not to alter the fundamental geometry of the extractor points if you want the gun to carry up correctly (assuming it's a newer gun without the locator pins). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGD Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 To chamfer a S&W 625 from performance center would you be best using a 5/8 inch 45 degree cutter or 1/2 inch 45 degree cutter from Brownell's? I see the pilot will guide against float but what do they make to gauge depth of cut so each cylinder is the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 To chamfer a S&W 625 from performance center would you be best using a 5/8 inch 45 degree cutter or 1/2 inch 45 degree cutter from Brownell's? The 1/2" is too small, your chambers are .480"+. The 5/8" will cut the ratchets unless you remove the extractor. So, remove the extractor and use the 5/8 cutter. Eyeball the width of your chamfer cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 (edited) It looks like I missed out on part of this discussion a while back. I am using the 1/2" 45 degree cutter which does not touch the ratchets at all. I use the same cutter with a different pilot to crown the muzzle. The 1/2" one is just big enough to do 45 chambers with a modest chamfer, which is all you need. Definitely don't change the ratchets at all. For the depth, you just make them all look about the same. This is one of the few non critical operations. I do agree with what Mike and Tom said too. Edited December 30, 2011 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 We agree, we just like them a bit different. Many 625 extractors are factory chamfered even when the chambers aren't. The 1/2" cutter will duplicate the factory's pretty "modest" extractor chamfer. It definitely seems to be enough. I like more on the chambers. I measured the chamfers on my 625, they're ~.040" - .045" wide, measuring the flat. They're that width because "it looked about right". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norther Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 When I did mine awhile back, I had already ordered the 5/8" one before I realized it would hit the extractor. Not wanting to return it, and wanting the extractor chamfered, I slowly spun the cutting end of the tool against my Dremel grinding wheel until it was just small enough to miss the ratchet. Something like 9/16". The pilot Brownell's specified was too large for my chambers, and had to be hand polished quite a bit to make it fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 The pilot Brownell's specified was too large for my chambers, and had to be hand polished quite a bit to make it fit. FYI, that generally means the chambers on your 625 are tighter than SAAMI spec, which is very common on 625-2s and 625-8s. You might want to consider reaming the chambers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 The pilot Brownell's specified was too large for my chambers, and had to be hand polished quite a bit to make it fit. +1 to what Mike said. That just means your chambers are undersize. By "reaming", we're NOT talking about "hogging them out", just cutting them to the correct size with a SAAMI spec finishing reamer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGD Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I will chamfer with 5/8 what SAAMI spec 45 finishing reamer do you recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) I will chamfer with 5/8 what SAAMI spec 45 finishing reamer do you recommend? I have: 184-051-450 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=17655/Product/PISTOL-CHAMBERING-REAMERS Edit: verified reamer part #. Edited January 2, 2012 by Tom E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Sandpaper rolled into a cone. $.25 and it does a nice job. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norther Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 The pilot Brownell's specified was too large for my chambers, and had to be hand polished quite a bit to make it fit. FYI, that generally means the chambers on your 625 are tighter than SAAMI spec, which is very common on 625-2s and 625-8s. You might want to consider reaming the chambers. +1 to what Mike said. That just means your chambers are undersize. By "reaming", we're NOT talking about "hogging them out", just cutting them to the correct size with a SAAMI spec finishing reamer. Okay, I've read about that being a problem with my .22 revolver too. It has sticky extraction, but the 625 doesn't seem to have any problems with tight chambers. If I'm not having difficulties, is there any reason not to just leave it be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 If it's ok it's ok. The usual problems were with -2's, some -3's, and -8's. It would really show up with reloads using brass that had been fired in semi-autos, "Glocked" brass being the worst. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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