New Dillon RL 1050

[dabeaven]

I have spent several hours this past week cleaning and adjusting a Craig's List purchase, a Dillon RL1050. I was in good shape with a little rust on the handle, frame, and dies. I used WD40 and 1200 grit emery cloth to clean thing up. I have lubricated all parts as specified by Dillon's WEB site.

It came with an extra shell plate, several sets of dies, an unused powder thrower and some incidental equipment. I have loaded a few rounds and they seem to be OK but, with used equipment there always, at least for me, remains some degree of uncertainty. I have loaded on a RL550 ( a little) but have a nagging since of uncertainty.

Are there things I should be looking for beyond COL, powder charge,sound brass, and correct primer seating. I have applied all the things I did with the Rock Chucker and RL550b but I want to be cautious while loading on new equipment. I bought the press at what I thought was a bargain price $700 with all the mentioned accessories.

Does anyone need some Dillon powder slides, I think there was around ten in the box of incidentals that was included in the shipping box.

Thanks in advance for any information to keep things safe, which is always priority #1.

Don

[sidnal]

You got a great deal. If you've got it all cleaned up then you should be good to go. Just remember that the case gauge is your friend.

[noylj]

Your gun's barrel is your friend. A case gauge can't tell you if the round will fit your magazine or feed and chamber in you gun. use your barrel and always make up a couple of inert dummy rounds to check the rounds fit and function in your gun.

Not even sure what you are worried about. Personally, I am wondering if you simply don't feel confident with used and should really have bought new? You got a great press at a great price and I wouldn't sell anything until you really know what you need and don't need.

The 1050 is very sensitive to cleanliness and powder spills. If you spill any powder, don't take any short cuts. Stop, remove all cases from shellholder, and brush off all powder. If you suspect powder has gotten under the shellplate, remove toolhead, remove shellplate, and clean everything. One area where "crap" collects is the ball bearing that indexes the shellplate. Keep this and the spring and hole clean.

Never force anything. If something hangs up the press, stop, remove one case at a time until you find the cause. If none of the cases are causing the problem, check the primer slide. About the only problem I have had is the slider not going all the way forward and I need to adjust the primer actuator lever to line up properly. Never loosen the bolt holding the actuator lever assembly to the primer safety tube. Be sure that the slider moves easily along the "track" with no hang-ups. Read the tips and tricks in the Dillon press forums here.

[dabeaven]

You got a great deal. If you've got it all cleaned up then you should be good to go. Just remember that the case gauge is your friend.

Thanks,

At this point I do not have a case gauge, but that is on my list. I have tried chambering inert loaded rounds and I checked all dimensions with a digital micrometer. Everything measured within spec. I guess I will feel more comfortable after shootng a few rounds and checking speed and accuracy.

Thanks for the response!

Don

[dabeaven]

Your gun's barrel is your friend. A case gauge can't tell you if the round will fit your magazine or feed and chamber in you gun. use your barrel and always make up a couple of inert dummy rounds to check the rounds fit and function in your gun.

Not even sure what you are worried about. Personally, I am wondering if you simply don't feel confident with used and should really have bought new? You got a great press at a great price and I wouldn't sell anything until you really know what you need and don't need.

The 1050 is very sensitive to cleanliness and powder spills. If you spill any powder, don't take any short cuts. Stop, remove all cases from shellholder, and brush off all powder. If you suspect powder has gotten under the shellplate, remove toolhead, remove shellplate, and clean everything. One area where "crap" collects is the ball bearing that indexes the shellplate. Keep this and the spring and hole clean.

Never force anything. If something hangs up the press, stop, remove one case at a time until you find the cause. If none of the cases are causing the problem, check the primer slide. About the only problem I have had is the slider not going all the way forward and I need to adjust the primer actuator lever to line up properly. Never loosen the bolt holding the actuator lever assembly to the primer safety tube. Be sure that the slider moves easily along the "track" with no hang-ups. Read the tips and tricks in the Dillon press forums here.

Thanks for mentioning the powder issue. I have a small air compressor near the presses and shoot them off with 125# of pressure immediately after noting spillage and I dump and recycle the round through the machine again starting with the powder measure. I guess the uncertainty with used is somewhat concerning but, everything looks good. I was seeking information for the gotcha's and I appreciate your input.

Thanks,

Don

[AWLAZS]

I purchased a used one. Its awesome. Remember to keep the thing greased up. The previous owner of mine highlighted all the important parts to lube. I did not lube one of the parts he indicated I will not skip past that again. It took me a while to figure out what the hell was sticking.

Edited September 28, 2010 by AWLAZS

[dabeaven]

I purchased a used one. Its awesome. Remember to keep the thing greased up. The previous owner of mine highlighted all the important parts to lube. I did not lube one of the parts he indicated I will not skip past that again. It took me a while to figure out what the hell was sticking.

If you have information that has resolved issues, please share it, I am baby-stepping my way into the RL1050 and I wils appreciate als constructive criticism, shortcuts, and beware the gotcha's thar anyone has to offer.

\Thanks for the reply!

Don

[noylj]

1) Never tighten the magazine shield cap (knurled silver nut at top of the primer feed body/shield. Over tightening it will cause the plastic tip at the bottom of the primer magazine tube to twist and not let primers drop freely.

2) The shellplate needs to be just right in terms of tightness. Too tight and you will notice the drag and it may not index properly. Too loose, and you will noticed rough, forceful indexing and your bullet seating will be inconsistent.

3) Make sure the black rubber slide roll pin sleeve is not missing or cracked.

4) Never short stroke. All the way and all the down without jerking or being too fast and forceful. Consistency.

5) Never tighten the tool head until it is all the way down and indexed into the shellplate

6) When you have to put take off or reinstall the slide actuating lever, lower the toolhead to about the mid position and everything will line up for ease of installation/removal. Always use the cotter pin on the bracket pivot pin to remove the slide actuating lever assembly

7) have spare of the plastic tips for the primer pick-up tubes and the primer magazine tubes.

8) Should have been above as #2: Be sure the primer magazine tube is all the down and the plastic tip is not damaged in any way.

9) Be sue there is clearance between the primer shield and the powder measure.

10) Install the Dillon Powder Check Die or the RCBS Lock-out die at station 6. I find that I can just barely see into the case at station 7 as I place the bullet on the case. Trying to observe the powder level in station 6 is ridiculous for me—need to stand up, bend over the press, and use a light. Much easier to observe at station 7 and have an active powder check die at 6.

11) I haven't done it yet, but get the ergonomic bullet tray. It is over-priced, but can be worth it for ease of grabbing bullets for seating.

12) If you are mechanically inclined, you might take a small pistol feed plate and make the slots slightly larger so .40S&W feeds a bit better.

[dabeaven]

Thank you for the response, that is exactly what I need to tune myself into the RL1050. It appears to be an excellently built piece of machinery and I have been on their site to the FAQ several times but what you have shared is still very illuminating. I will continue to read the forums and post questions when I need help. I certainly appreciate those who have taken the time to help initiate another 1050 user!

Thanks,

Don

[AWLAZS]

Take the empty primer tray off cut the bottom of a 223 case get some plastic tubing that will fit over the outside of the case. Put one end of the tube over the case and stick it in the hole the primers fall through and the other in a bucket.

[briansea2]

Don't listen to any of them. You have made a mistake by getting a Dillon. I will give you $100. American for the POS and I am probably over paying at that price. PM me for address

B

[freakshow10mm]

Getting the press tuned into how you load and what you load can be a daunting task. There is quite a long learning curve with it, IME. I have learned the 1050 excels when dedicated to one caliber or those that pair well. Like changing from 9mm Luger to .38 Super is no biggie, swap out the toolhead.

It took me several months and many frustrations to get my 1050 dialed in. I've had it set up all summer for 9mm since the last time it came back from Dillon repair. Just about flawless.

There is the rubber plunger thing in the primer slide that has been removed. With it, the press choked. Without it, I have maybe one stoppage every 2-3 thousand rounds. When the press won't index, I stop, take off the white tab in the primer station, take the case out, clear the jam, then reassemble and keep going. Down time of maybe 5 minutes. That I can live with.

I removed the ratchet return tab thing. Useless feature. Just get rid of it. Just complicates things.

[DougCarden]

Here is something to try with the primer slide. Get your spare rubber tubing, or just go get a length of it at the auto supply store, it is vacuum tubing. Use a Xacto knife or a rasor blade. Cut a piece so it is just inside the outer diameter of the primer slide itself. Now put a drop of superglue on the "tit" of the primer slide,and put the rubber bushing on the "tit". Let it dry. Now put the slide back in the channel, and move it back and forth with mild finger pressure. If it rubs or doesn't move freely, then shorten the rubber bushing a little bit with the razor blade. Once you get it short enough you will be good to go.

The bushing wears out when it gets loose and that is when you start having phantom primer jams. When putting the primer slide arm down make sure the handle is down all the way. Put the slide arm down all the way, and then lift it up just a little and lock it down. If the press runs smoothly and slide is smooth with no hitch, you are good to go.

With the priming system, You need to check the blue tip on the tube, the rubber tubing on the slide, and the adjustment on the primer slide arm. That is it. Every now and then check the bolt under the shellplate that the primer punch activator and make sure that it does not get loose.

You got the shizzle, my friend. Enjoy!

DougC