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Mainspring 15?


ty34984

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have a 15 in now and the gun wont go bang...i went with the 15 to try and speed the slide up a bit by letting the hammer be lighter less pressure ...i assume i need a long firing pin and a lighter firing pin spring? or just go to the 17 and see what happens? i think there as a 19 before i changed anything? Ideas and i can accept someone telling me im nuts just shoot it with the 19?

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This is where the fun starts. Order up an XL firing pin and give it a whirl with the 15# spring. You will probably find that your gun will go bang then but now is the 15# doing what you want it to do in relation to slide speed? You might still need a 17#. 18#? But then don't forget your recoil spring and the working relationship with the mainspring. But wait, there's more! Now start working with the firing pin stop and the radius of the curve at the bottom. The larger the radius the easier the slide is able to overcome the resistance of the hammer/ mainspring. All three of these items can contribute to achieving what you want. Have fun!

Pat

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If its a 2011/1911 a 17#. CZ & Tanfo get a 15# with the ex firing pin. Get the firing pin anyway, they work great and they are faster, can't be waiting on a slow firing pin. I'm not sure that the radius helps the speed but it sure makes ULSC easier as well as make ready.

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If you want the slide speed to be higher, use a lighter recoil spring. I have 19lb mainsprings in all my 1911/2011s and they all have light triggers, but still go bang with small rifle primers (except the .45, which is LP primers, of course). I've had three different big name 'smiths specify 19lb mainsprings when I was putting the parts together for a build or trigger job. R,

Edit to add, if you want to give the slide a little easier head start, radius the firing pin stop...that lets the slide move a bit more before hitting the resistance of the MS.

Edited by G-ManBart
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Hello: use the 17lb ISMI spring and a Dawson extended firing pin. It will go bang all the time and for a very long time. The 15lb may work for a while then let you down when you don't want it to. I know I had this happen :surprise: A 19lb spring will increase your trigger pull just a little bit maybe 4 ozs at most. Go with the 17lb :cheers: Thanks, Eric

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I have 15lb mainspring ISMI. I also have Mclaren Extra Long M2i XL firing pin and Koening Low Mass Hammer 1911 with out long firing pin and light hammer there is big chance that the gun won't go bang.

17 lb. mainspring in that case is good option.

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Hello: use the 17lb ISMI spring and a Dawson extended firing pin. It will go bang all the time and for a very long time. The 15lb may work for a while then let you down when you don't want it to. I know I had this happen :surprise: A 19lb spring will increase your trigger pull just a little bit maybe 4 ozs at most. Go with the 17lb :cheers: Thanks, Eric

Eric, how light are you trying to get the pull weight to have to go down to 17lbs? I've got sub-2 triggers with a 19lb spring. If the geometry is right, it won't make that much of a difference.

If you have to use an extended firing pin to make it go bang, the mainspring isn't heavy enough. Extended firing pins are intended to reduce/eliminate primer material from filling in the firing pin hole, not make up for a weak mainsprings ;)

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Chris: If you change out just the mainspring you will see up to a 4oz change without doing anything else. I have done this many times just to see what happens with a heavier mainspring. A 2lb trigger is the standard for most smiths to use on open pistols I have seen. The heavier mainspring does increase the effort the slide needs to overcome it. You can reduce that some by changing the firing pin stop radius. I still like the 17lb ISMI mainspring, it goes bang everytime for me. Thanks, Eric

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Chris: If you change out just the mainspring you will see up to a 4oz change without doing anything else. I have done this many times just to see what happens with a heavier mainspring. A 2lb trigger is the standard for most smiths to use on open pistols I have seen. The heavier mainspring does increase the effort the slide needs to overcome it. You can reduce that some by changing the firing pin stop radius. I still like the 17lb ISMI mainspring, it goes bang everytime for me. Thanks, Eric

Yeah, I've tried that, with a digital Lyman trigger pull gauge, and didn't see 4oz of difference, but that wasn't what I was asking. How light, in actual ounces, are you trying to get that it needs a 17lb spring?

The difference in slide speed from a heavier/lighter mainspring is less than the difference you'll get with a radiused verus square FPS. Futher, weigh some "17lb" mainsprings and you'll find that very few are actually 17lbs, so sometimes they will, and sometimes they won't make any difference. I don't know anybody who's weighing their MS before installing it, so they might be putting a "17lb" spring in that really is 18 or 19lbs. Do you test yours (and your recoil springs) before putting them in?

I'm not saying springs don't make any difference, but since the vast majority of springs aren't rated by any sort of consistent method, most folks don't really know what the spring is in their gun...sure it might say X pounds, but is it really? I once put a "19lb" spring in my Limited gun that wouldn't consistently light off Win SP primers...it was more like 14lbs, but it was new out of the package. Gun cycled the same though :)

I'm not buying that most folks will notice any difference in how the gun cycles by changing their mainspring by 2lbs. I'll offer the Pepsi challenge to anybody that wants to try it...their gun or mine, blind test with factory new ammo that I supply. Winner buys dinner :)

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I like to use 15 lb. mainspring. I have Koening Low Mass Hammer 1911 in all my handguns and my gun go bang every time the primer is seated right deep, but if the primer is not seated right deep then extra long firing pin helps for that. Maybe I am lucky to have guns that goes bang even when my friends guns won't, but I am extra careful that primers are seated in right deep if they are I trust my guns 100% that they fire the primer.

I have used CCI small pistol and rifle primers, Remington rifle primers, Federal rifle primers, Winchester pistol primers, Seller & Belliot 4,4 SPM (suppost to be magnum pistol primers) and Magtech pistol and rifle (my friends have trouble with this one, but my gun like it anyway) primers. When my friends had any troubles with any of the primers they only changed the 17 lb. mainspring in their guns and they didn't have problems to fire the primer.

When shooters asked me what I use I say 15 lb. but I recommend 17 lb. mainspring anyway because it's sure thing and it works great with all my shooting friends guns. Then I have little bit explaining to do why I use 15 lb.

I suggest if any of you are interested 15 lb. mainspring just try it and if you don't like it or it won't work in your's gun just change it heavier. That simple is that. I won't cost so must to try it but keep 17lb. mainspring in spare part box just in case. ;)

Hope it works for you. :D

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Chris: I have a tester for recoil springs that I made and a little tester for mainsprings using a scale and a drill press. I need to make a better mainspring tester. You are correct on the springs not being the same. They are heat treated and that can vary the temper of the steel depending where they are in the oven. My trigger I am using now is 1lb 10 ozs and goes bang with the 17 lb mainspring and a Dawson Extended firing pin(for primer flow) and a 8lb recoil spring with a radius on the firing pin stop. Thanks, Eric

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Chris: I have a tester for recoil springs that I made and a little tester for mainsprings using a scale and a drill press. I need to make a better mainspring tester. You are correct on the springs not being the same. They are heat treated and that can vary the temper of the steel depending where they are in the oven. My trigger I am using now is 1lb 10 ozs and goes bang with the 17 lb mainspring and a Dawson Extended firing pin(for primer flow) and a 8lb recoil spring with a radius on the firing pin stop. Thanks, Eric

so you say a EXTENDED FIRING PIN helps stop primer flow? i thought it would increase the chances of it happening?

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This is where the fun starts. Order up an XL firing pin and give it a whirl with the 15# spring. You will probably find that your gun will go bang then but now is the 15# doing what you want it to do in relation to slide speed? You might still need a 17#. 18#? But then don't forget your recoil spring and the working relationship with the mainspring. But wait, there's more! Now start working with the firing pin stop and the radius of the curve at the bottom. The larger the radius the easier the slide is able to overcome the resistance of the hammer/ mainspring. All three of these items can contribute to achieving what you want. Have fun!

Pat

i guess what i want is a flat shooting gun....it seems to be powder-bullet-recoil spring-mainspring-comp all play into it where in the heck do you start my choice was the mainspring for some unknown reason...or is it just luck that you get it flat shooting ? thanks

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Hello: I have learned that the bullet weight and powder choice does alot. A good starting point is a 9lb recoil spring, 17lb mainspring. Try some different powders for your pistol 9mm,38 super or 38 super comp. There is lots of info here when you start looking. The next step is don't be scared to try different things to get the pistol to shoot flatter. If you have a standard setup I am sure someone here has played with it to make it shoot better. You will be the final judge of what works for you. I am in the process of finding the best setup for me. I am not sure if I will ever get there :roflol: I am currently playing with a 5" 9mm setup. I have settled on HS-6 and Silhouette powders and the 115 grain bullets for 9mm. The rest of the stuff is open for trial. I know the Benny Hill "Hell Holes" have worked great. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric

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Hello: I have learned that the bullet weight and powder choice does alot. A good starting point is a 9lb recoil spring, 17lb mainspring. Try some different powders for your pistol 9mm,38 super or 38 super comp. There is lots of info here when you start looking. The next step is don't be scared to try different things to get the pistol to shoot flatter. If you have a standard setup I am sure someone here has played with it to make it shoot better. You will be the final judge of what works for you. I am in the process of finding the best setup for me. I am not sure if I will ever get there :roflol: I am currently playing with a 5" 9mm setup. I have settled on HS-6 and Silhouette powders and the 115 grain bullets for 9mm. The rest of the stuff is open for trial. I know the Benny Hill "Hell Holes" have worked great. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric

yeah i tried the search and well lets say im not sure some members have a clue what they are talking about when you read some of this stuff. Not that i know everything but i have learned the advice is worth what you pay for it. the info in this post in correct as i see it but search will get you arm chair shooters thanks for all the input i will keep playing around

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This is where the fun starts. Order up an XL firing pin and give it a whirl with the 15# spring. You will probably find that your gun will go bang then but now is the 15# doing what you want it to do in relation to slide speed? You might still need a 17#. 18#? But then don't forget your recoil spring and the working relationship with the mainspring. But wait, there's more! Now start working with the firing pin stop and the radius of the curve at the bottom. The larger the radius the easier the slide is able to overcome the resistance of the hammer/ mainspring. All three of these items can contribute to achieving what you want. Have fun!

Pat

i guess what i want is a flat shooting gun....it seems to be powder-bullet-recoil spring-mainspring-comp all play into it where in the heck do you start my choice was the mainspring for some unknown reason...or is it just luck that you get it flat shooting ? thanks

When you have a few different mainsprings and recoil springs in hand spend an afternoon at the range and shoot timing drills. You will see the group size shrink as you find the right combo for your gun and yourself. As Eric said bullets, powder and loads enter into this equation. You have to spend the time to find what works for you and your gun. Stumbling upon it is a long shot. No pun intended. It's amazing to see what you discover with this routine.

Pat

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so you say a EXTENDED FIRING PIN helps stop primer flow? i thought it would increase the chances of it happening?

Yes, extended helps prevent the primer material from entering the firing pin hole and plugging it. The primer may still flow, crater, smear, but it won't be able to fill in the firing pin hole. R,

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